Discussion
hi all I have a 2002 c4s with 80k
although it has fsh and will be due later in the year, I am doing a track day in march and want to do an oil and filter change first, so wanted to know what oil ie 5w-30, 10w-40 full or semi synthetic and exact qty ?
also was recommended to also use slick 50 any advice would be great
thanks
although it has fsh and will be due later in the year, I am doing a track day in march and want to do an oil and filter change first, so wanted to know what oil ie 5w-30, 10w-40 full or semi synthetic and exact qty ?
also was recommended to also use slick 50 any advice would be great
thanks
Don't bother with Slick 50, if you want a good oil, I use Millers Nanodrive 5W/40 which has great reviews.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-73732-millers-oils-nan...
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-73732-millers-oils-nan...
On the recommendation from Hartech I've been using Millers Nano 10W/50 for the past two years in my 89,000 mile 996.2 C4. I've found a big difference in the lack of smoking on start up, I rarely get this now, whereas when I had the recommended Mobil oil it smoked almost every time. The oil pressure is a nice 2 bar when fully warm as well 
Edited by TwoLeadFeet on Thursday 6th February 08:03
Edited by TwoLeadFeet on Thursday 6th February 08:05
TwoLeadFeet said:
On the recommendation from Hartech I've been using Millers Nano 10W/50 for the past two years in my 89,000 mile 996.2 C4. I've found a big difference in the lack of smoking on start up, I rarely get this now, whereas when I had the recommended Mobil oil it smoked almost every time. The oil pressure is a nice 2 bar when fully warm as well
Worth adding that Hartech specify Millers Nano 10W/50 as a condition of warranty on their rebuilt engines. The warranty doc actually states that they will test the oil to ensure it is Millers Nano in the event of a claim. They clearly rate it very highly.I put that Millers Nanotech 10w50 in my 993 turbo after discussing it with a tech from Millers (he recommended their 10w50 rather than 5w40 because of the characteristics of the oil). The main thing I've noticed is that the revs fall quickly on changing gear (like having a LWF) - presume that's as a result from the oils low friction qualities.
stewart rix said:
I put that Millers Nanotech 10w50 in my 993 turbo after discussing it with a tech from Millers (he recommended their 10w50 rather than 5w40 because of the characteristics of the oil). The main thing I've noticed is that the revs fall quickly on changing gear (like having a LWF) - presume that's as a result from the oils low friction qualities.
In the absence of a LWF, the only thing that will make revs FALL more quickly is added friction - not less!This is due to the extra loading on the oil pump and extra drag on the engine's internal components from using an oil that's too thick, hot, for the engine's design. 40-weight oil is specified for a reason. 50-weight will give you a drop in performance due to the extra drag and loading on the oil pump and also a drop in oil flow rate around the engine (i.e. less cooling and lubrication) despite the seemingly higher oil pressure.
ETA - If you want to know why the flow's reduced, think about how oil pressure relief valves work.
Edited by Ian_UK1 on Thursday 6th February 17:47
I'm slightly confused.
As Ian said, your manual states to use a 40 weight oil. If an engine rebuilder uses a 50 weight oil after a rebuild, that's one thing, but why would you put the wrong oil into your standard engine?
If you were racing the car, then a higher running-temperature weight is a good idea (so the oil can work better at higher temperatures/stress) but you are just doing a track-day, so common opinion is to stick to 40.
Where did the 30 come from? Never, in a month of sundays, unless the track-day is at the South-Pole racetrack I suppose.
Your other question is more difficult to answer. There are arguments for changing oil immediately before a track-day (so the oil is in the best condition to protect the engine) and immediately after as well (to remove the extra particulates you have created, and to renew the oil that has been stressed/sheared).
If you had a recent-ish change then you should be ok to do the change after.
When was your last change? Who changes your oil for you.
I would source my own oil and Mahle filters (not the cheap-s
te Porsche filters), from Opie, and give these to whoever changes your oil.
If you love your car, do it before and after, extra cost is only a round of drinks in the pub.
Which oil you say?
Well as long as it ends 40, we can argue all you like. I'd put a 5W40 in your car. A Fuchs or Motul probably, though Millers has become fashionable, and Castrol Edge is always an option.
ps Opie are having a 20%-off everything at the moment, so fill yer boots.
pps no I don't have any connection with Opie.
ppps the volume of oil required for an oil-change should also be listed in your manual?
ETA here is the 5W40 page at Opie - I should have said Shell Helix fully synthetic should also be on your list.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-656-5w-40.aspx
As Ian said, your manual states to use a 40 weight oil. If an engine rebuilder uses a 50 weight oil after a rebuild, that's one thing, but why would you put the wrong oil into your standard engine?
If you were racing the car, then a higher running-temperature weight is a good idea (so the oil can work better at higher temperatures/stress) but you are just doing a track-day, so common opinion is to stick to 40.
Where did the 30 come from? Never, in a month of sundays, unless the track-day is at the South-Pole racetrack I suppose.
Your other question is more difficult to answer. There are arguments for changing oil immediately before a track-day (so the oil is in the best condition to protect the engine) and immediately after as well (to remove the extra particulates you have created, and to renew the oil that has been stressed/sheared).
If you had a recent-ish change then you should be ok to do the change after.
When was your last change? Who changes your oil for you.
I would source my own oil and Mahle filters (not the cheap-s
te Porsche filters), from Opie, and give these to whoever changes your oil.If you love your car, do it before and after, extra cost is only a round of drinks in the pub.
Which oil you say?
Well as long as it ends 40, we can argue all you like. I'd put a 5W40 in your car. A Fuchs or Motul probably, though Millers has become fashionable, and Castrol Edge is always an option.
ps Opie are having a 20%-off everything at the moment, so fill yer boots.
pps no I don't have any connection with Opie.
ppps the volume of oil required for an oil-change should also be listed in your manual?
ETA here is the 5W40 page at Opie - I should have said Shell Helix fully synthetic should also be on your list.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-656-5w-40.aspx
Edited by Orangecurry on Thursday 6th February 20:54
TwoLeadFeet said:
On the recommendation from Hartech I've been using Millers Nano 10W/50 for the past two years in my 89,000 mile 996.2 C4. I've found a big difference in the lack of smoking on start up, I rarely get this now, whereas when I had the recommended Mobil oil it smoked almost every time.
This is because you have changed from an 0-at-cold weight oil to a 10-at-cold weight oil.Personally I'd use a 10W40 not a 50, as (explained above) you will be down on power and it isn't the operating-temp weight the engine/pump were designed for (in the UK climate, where you are I assume).
Another reason is because (deep breath everyone - concentrate) the greater the span between the two viscosity numbers numbers e.g. 10W50, the less actual 'oil' there is per litre and the more clever chemicals are added per litre. The clever chemicals help the oil 'change viscosity' as the engine warms up from a 10 'weight' oil to a 50 'weight' oil.
So for example a 10W40 has more 'oil' and less chemicals than the same manufacturers 10W50 oil.
Oil threads? Lovely.
Edited by Orangecurry on Thursday 6th February 22:29
Gassing Station | Porsche General | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff