Intermittent loss of power 997S
Intermittent loss of power 997S
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ocd

Original Poster:

124 posts

240 months

Friday 9th May 2014
quotequote all
Advice appreciated. MY06 997S owned by me from new. FPSH, 75k miles with v little gone wrong over the years. Recently sudden transient loss of power at low revs when cold, usually on accelerating away from stationary. No warning lights and sudden restoration of power within a couple of seconds. Idles normally. It's happened 3 times today. Car is used daily for 15 mile commute on motorway/town roads. Doesn;t seem to happen when engine fully warmed up and performance otherwise unchanged. Clutch master cylinder went on Monday so it's been in the OPC for repairs and new clutch (under warranty - result!). It feels like fuel starvation but could be more sinister? Big service in Jan 14 with no problems picked up.
Thanks for any advice.

Pugley

687 posts

221 months

Friday 9th May 2014
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Coil Packs. Usually noticeable when cold and the spark arcs its way out of the hairline cracks.

If they have not been replaced in 75K it would be my first place to check.

ocd

Original Poster:

124 posts

240 months

Friday 9th May 2014
quotequote all
Thanks for your reply. The coil packs were replaced at the last big service in December...
I guess it's going to have to go back into the the workshop.

ocd

Original Poster:

124 posts

240 months

Saturday 10th May 2014
quotequote all
Just been to OPC Bournemouth (thanks Richard). Happened once accelerating out of roundabout coming off motorway. Nothing on the diagnostics. Gave it a bit of an Italian tune up on the way home. If it happens again it will have to go back....

james S

1,620 posts

274 months

Saturday 10th May 2014
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Symptoms sound very similar to the air flow meter problems I used to have on my 964. I'm not sure his is a problem with 997s though, perhaps someone can advise.

Ian_UK1

1,515 posts

223 months

Saturday 10th May 2014
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ocd said:
Just been to OPC Bournemouth (thanks Richard). Happened once accelerating out of roundabout coming off motorway. Nothing on the diagnostics. Gave it a bit of an Italian tune up on the way home. If it happens again it will have to go back....
997S.1s can be running fairly poorly long before fault codes are generated by the ECU. This is particularly true of lambda sensors and MAF sensors (formerly known as air flow meters). A good tech at a proper independent will be able to look at real time values in the diagnostics to see if any of the above are on their way out, but haven't quite got bad enough to throw a code - yet!

Other items that could be responsible:

1) Coil packs, as said above. Just because they're new doesn't mean they were fitted properly or that one isn't faulty.
2) Main battery/alternator cable. There was an issue on the mk1 997s where the main cable that runs from the back of the alternator to the battery at the front of the car started to fail at a joint (where a connector was attached to the end of the cable). The resistance of the wire increased to the point where all sorts of issues started to happen. From memory, I think the connection is made-up of 2 physical cables that join in a junction box on/near the side of the gearbox (can't remember exactly). Replacement is the only cure.
3) The 2 large, circular multi-plugs at the right-hand side of the engine bay - make sure they're done-up correctly (rotate clockwise) and none of the pins/sockets inside have corroded.
4) Ignition switch. These are known to fail and can cause the car to cut out.
5) Multi-block plugs on the ECU and other control units - under the insulation behind the back seats. The ECU is attached to a metal plate that's held down by 4 (I think) fasteners. Undo them, lift the plate and make sure all the plugs are secure in the tops of the control units. They all have locking levers that that should be fully in the down position - if any aren't, there could be an intermittent connection.
6) This may be unique to the 997S.1 I used to own as I've not heard of the same problem elsewhere, but it could cause the symptoms you describe. The main wiring loom behind the dashboard had chafed on a bracket near the glovebox and had shorted a couple of the cables. Nothing worked properly and it took the local OPC days to find the problem. (And several more days for an electrician to mend everything)!

There are other possibilities - such as engine/cam position sensors, variocam units etc. - but these would typically throw a code, so are unlikely if the diagnostics are clear. There will also probably be several I haven't thought of - hopefully others will chip-in.

Hope you find the problem. My instinct would be ignition switch or the alternator-to-battery cable(s), but it's difficult to know at a distance.


ocd

Original Poster:

124 posts

240 months

Saturday 10th May 2014
quotequote all
Thanks very much for such a detailed reply. The abruptness of the loss/recovery of power feels like someone has switched off the ignition so I wonder if ignition switch intermittent failure is the problem. I will feed this back to OPC and let you know what happens. The car is in the last year of its warranty so it should be covered.

Rockster

1,515 posts

189 months

Saturday 10th May 2014
quotequote all
You I think hit upon the problem: fuel starvation. Fuel pump then most likely. Intermittent failure. Eventually it will fail outright but in the mean time the car is not much fun to drive.

Would I replace the fuel pump on just the above? No.

Let's consider some other explanations...

No CEL so it is unlikely it is coils.

You observe nothing untoward at the dash so I would eliminate the ignition switch, unless you are the type of owner who has every key he ever owned on a keychain and this dangles from the Porsche key in the ignition…

There are more esoteric explanations. A converter brick loose and intermittently moving out of position and blocking exhaust gas flow. Check for any abnormal noises/rattles/buzzing from the exhaust system.

The throttle body butterfly valve is being interfered with. One possible scenario has the valve out of position due to wear or some kind of mechanical failure and binding upon giving the engine some gas. But if the drop off in power comes with no throttle action on your part, on steady application of throttle, then no.

This leaves the fuel pump or something amiss in the fuel system. The fuel lines could have a crack or be loose and upon high g-force situations could move and allow fuel pressure to drop. The crack/split closes when the g-force goes away. If this is happening it will get worse over time but you are still faced with living with a car with drivability issues which is not fun.

Helicopter123

8,831 posts

185 months

Sunday 11th May 2014
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Does sound like the fuel pump is the most likely (but not only culprit).

Car won't be much fun at the moment and potentially dangerous.

OP mentions its under warranty so I would make the best of this and get it into OPC to resolve the issues.

ocd

Original Poster:

124 posts

240 months

Sunday 11th May 2014
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Thanks. It will be booked in tomorrow. I will update you all once it has been dealt with.

ocd

Original Poster:

124 posts

240 months

Monday 19th May 2014
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Just had the call from OPC. There is a switch in the braking system that tells the 'brain' that the brakes are applied. This inhibits the throttle apparently. The switch was faulty hence the loss of power after braking and then acceleration. Sorted!
Thanks to all for your input.

Trev450

6,742 posts

201 months

Monday 19th May 2014
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ocd said:
There is a switch in the braking system that tells the 'brain' that the brakes are applied. This inhibits the throttle apparently.
There is indeed. I found this out the first time I left foot braked mine. biggrin

David W.

1,950 posts

238 months

Monday 19th May 2014
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Trev450 said:
There is indeed. I found this out the first time I left foot braked mine. biggrin
As a left foot braker in any auto,tip,pdk that is the reason I like a manual 911. I didn't get on well with pdk test drive at Milbrook a few years ago, it took a while to work out why.
dw

Trev450

6,742 posts

201 months

Monday 19th May 2014
quotequote all
David W. said:
Trev450 said:
There is indeed. I found this out the first time I left foot braked mine. biggrin
As a left foot braker in any auto,tip,pdk that is the reason I like a manual 911. I didn't get on well with pdk test drive at Milbrook a few years ago, it took a while to work out why.
dw
I am taking about a manual. Its a Cayman S though but can't see it being any different in a 997.

Magic919

14,457 posts

230 months

Monday 19th May 2014
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I can drive my PDK 997 along the road with left foot on the brake.

Elliott-xpb6a

1 posts

127 months

Thursday 18th February 2016
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I am having the same problem following some left foot breaking on my tip 997.

What is the part called that was replaced by the OPC? I think I need this switch!

ocd

Original Poster:

124 posts

240 months

Friday 19th February 2016
quotequote all
No idea what the part is called. If you phoned the Bournemouth opc they would tell you. I sold the car last year and now have an AMG C63. I'd love another Porker.....

DavidJG

4,143 posts

161 months

Friday 19th February 2016
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Elliott-xpb6a said:
I am having the same problem following some left foot breaking on my tip 997.

What is the part called that was replaced by the OPC? I think I need this switch!
I routinely heel & toe my 987 without problems - there's no difference in throttle when I'm under braking. It doesn't make sense to me that Porsche would fit a switch to cut the throttle when brakes are applied - many drivers will either left foot brake or heel & toe?


Pope

2,653 posts

276 months

Friday 19th February 2016
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If the throttle is applied and subsequently the brake applied, after 3-4 seconds the power is interrupted - as designed.

If the throttle is applied after braking, the power is not cut.