Cayenne turbo running costs , similar to 996 turbo?
Discussion
Assuming a 955tt, don't forget-
Coolant pipes
Coil packs
Rear hatch struts
Horn
Front control arms
Starter motor
Etc.
Wit the exception of the coolant pipes that only need to be done once, all of the above need to be replaced more often than you would think. I would guess a 996tt would be cheaper to run. I still love my 2005.
Coolant pipes
Coil packs
Rear hatch struts
Horn
Front control arms
Starter motor
Etc.
Wit the exception of the coolant pipes that only need to be done once, all of the above need to be replaced more often than you would think. I would guess a 996tt would be cheaper to run. I still love my 2005.
The problem with a £15k Cayenne is that the maintenance costs are still those of the £80-90k car it was originally. I have a Mercedes SL55 and a recent bill was 1/3 the value of the car.
I never found my 996 turbo expensive to maintain - replacement radiators aside - but I think the Cayenne will be hugely expensive to maintain by comparison.
I never found my 996 turbo expensive to maintain - replacement radiators aside - but I think the Cayenne will be hugely expensive to maintain by comparison.
2 months into our 955tt and costs so far have been:
Horn replacement £360 (mainly labour as the bumper needs to come off on the turbo.)
Fuel at 16mpg
Had it checked over and the only advisories that were mentioned is the prop having some wear in the uj. £300 for non porsche part and 2 hours labor to fit.
Boot struts are weak on ours and that was quoted at £300 which I will diy so about £150 for parts.
The big one is the coolant pipes, that's around £1100-1200 at an Indy. I haggled the cost of this into the purchase price as there was no paperwork to suggest it had been done.
Also check that it shifts into low range and out again. There is a £500 motor that shifts the selection in the transfer box and these fail through lack of use. I found out to my cost after it got stuck in low range! You can manually shift it back though and avoid the cost of a new motor. I have no need for low range so have just left it as is.
If you don't mind a bit of diy, I think they are quite a bargain.
Don't expect it to be mind blowing fast though. They do shift, but it's a big old car at the end of the day. The turbo is definitely the one to buy though, I looked at a lot of cars. The v6 is dangerously underpowered and the block issues on the v8 were too much risk for me.
Happy to answer any other questions you have!
Horn replacement £360 (mainly labour as the bumper needs to come off on the turbo.)
Fuel at 16mpg
Had it checked over and the only advisories that were mentioned is the prop having some wear in the uj. £300 for non porsche part and 2 hours labor to fit.
Boot struts are weak on ours and that was quoted at £300 which I will diy so about £150 for parts.
The big one is the coolant pipes, that's around £1100-1200 at an Indy. I haggled the cost of this into the purchase price as there was no paperwork to suggest it had been done.
Also check that it shifts into low range and out again. There is a £500 motor that shifts the selection in the transfer box and these fail through lack of use. I found out to my cost after it got stuck in low range! You can manually shift it back though and avoid the cost of a new motor. I have no need for low range so have just left it as is.
If you don't mind a bit of diy, I think they are quite a bargain.
Don't expect it to be mind blowing fast though. They do shift, but it's a big old car at the end of the day. The turbo is definitely the one to buy though, I looked at a lot of cars. The v6 is dangerously underpowered and the block issues on the v8 were too much risk for me.
Happy to answer any other questions you have!
5678 said:
2 months into our 955tt and costs so far have been:
Horn replacement £360 (mainly labour as the bumper needs to come off on the turbo.)
Fuel at 16mpg
Had it checked over and the only advisories that were mentioned is the prop having some wear in the uj. £300 for non porsche part and 2 hours labor to fit.
Boot struts are weak on ours and that was quoted at £300 which I will diy so about £150 for parts.
The big one is the coolant pipes, that's around £1100-1200 at an Indy. I haggled the cost of this into the purchase price as there was no paperwork to suggest it had been done.
Also check that it shifts into low range and out again. There is a £500 motor that shifts the selection in the transfer box and these fail through lack of use. I found out to my cost after it got stuck in low range! You can manually shift it back though and avoid the cost of a new motor. I have no need for low range so have just left it as is.
If you don't mind a bit of diy, I think they are quite a bargain.
Don't expect it to be mind blowing fast though. They do shift, but it's a big old car at the end of the day. The turbo is definitely the one to buy though, I looked at a lot of cars. The v6 is dangerously underpowered and the block issues on the v8 were too much risk for me.
Happy to answer any other questions you have!
What a great post!Horn replacement £360 (mainly labour as the bumper needs to come off on the turbo.)
Fuel at 16mpg
Had it checked over and the only advisories that were mentioned is the prop having some wear in the uj. £300 for non porsche part and 2 hours labor to fit.
Boot struts are weak on ours and that was quoted at £300 which I will diy so about £150 for parts.
The big one is the coolant pipes, that's around £1100-1200 at an Indy. I haggled the cost of this into the purchase price as there was no paperwork to suggest it had been done.
Also check that it shifts into low range and out again. There is a £500 motor that shifts the selection in the transfer box and these fail through lack of use. I found out to my cost after it got stuck in low range! You can manually shift it back though and avoid the cost of a new motor. I have no need for low range so have just left it as is.
If you don't mind a bit of diy, I think they are quite a bargain.
Don't expect it to be mind blowing fast though. They do shift, but it's a big old car at the end of the day. The turbo is definitely the one to buy though, I looked at a lot of cars. The v6 is dangerously underpowered and the block issues on the v8 were too much risk for me.
Happy to answer any other questions you have!
I hear that the V6 is so underpowered, that any mpg gains over the V8 are negated by how hard you have to punt the engine
In the last two years, even my S has cost more than my 996 turbo (although it is older / lower budget than you're considering). Off the top of my head, it's needed :
Suspension air bag
Passenger window regulator
Driver window regulator
Starter motor
Rear boot struts
Suspension Level sensor (which ended up costing me for a new control module too, but probably shouldn't have)
Battery
Aux belt (mine snapped, which makes you realise just how much you need power steering)
Water pump
I think there is some other stuff too, but can't think what at the moment.
Plus normal consumables like tyres, brakes all round and (lots of) petrol.
Having said that, I still really like the car and in the winter it really comes into it's own. It's excellent when it snows and you can't beat a heated steering wheel! Although if much more breaks I may be tempted to get rid of it. If I had to change to just a single car, I would give serious thought to a much newer one - although I suspect the rate it burns petrol might be the thing that stopped me.
Suspension air bag
Passenger window regulator
Driver window regulator
Starter motor
Rear boot struts
Suspension Level sensor (which ended up costing me for a new control module too, but probably shouldn't have)
Battery
Aux belt (mine snapped, which makes you realise just how much you need power steering)
Water pump
I think there is some other stuff too, but can't think what at the moment.
Plus normal consumables like tyres, brakes all round and (lots of) petrol.
Having said that, I still really like the car and in the winter it really comes into it's own. It's excellent when it snows and you can't beat a heated steering wheel! Although if much more breaks I may be tempted to get rid of it. If I had to change to just a single car, I would give serious thought to a much newer one - although I suspect the rate it burns petrol might be the thing that stopped me.
SkinnyP said:
Would a facelift S model not be a smarter and as equally enteratining proposition? I'd quite like a 4.8 alongside my cayman.
If it doesn't have the block issues of the 4.5 then it would make sense for that money. It would be fast enough the turbo is a bit ott for a family type car. Depends what you want from it really. David W. said:
SkinnyP said:
Would a facelift S model not be a smarter and as equally enteratining proposition? I'd quite like a 4.8 alongside my cayman.
I have one, 84 k miles on an 07, brill car and in sport mode responds well and drives every bit as fast as I want to go, nice noise too.SkinnyP said:
David W. said:
SkinnyP said:
Would a facelift S model not be a smarter and as equally enteratining proposition? I'd quite like a 4.8 alongside my cayman.
I have one, 84 k miles on an 07, brill car and in sport mode responds well and drives every bit as fast as I want to go, nice noise too.dw
thanks for all the advice, i am shocked that it will cost loads more than my 996tt, which is fairness isn't too bad at all ( i bought a good one to start with! ) So am i deluded in thinking I can run a Cayenne Turbo and not spend much at all, sounds like a3-4k per year for emergency fund, on top of fuel, consumables etc, thats madness, might as well ditch the idea and get the Gallardo!
V6 I have read as well thats its so underpowered and the V8 as mentioned has engine issue, so it would only really be the Turbo if at all,
V6 I have read as well thats its so underpowered and the V8 as mentioned has engine issue, so it would only really be the Turbo if at all,
I loved my 53 plate Turbo
did approx 60K miles over a few years
Used it in all weathers, and yes it really does come into it's own in snow with M+S tyres
it a straight line, it had no real trouble keeping up with my 996 GT3.... and wasn't much behind on the bends
I had the coolant pipes replaced as part of a major OPC service - bit of haggling got the price down to £1500 inc Vat for the pipes plus a major;
mine hadn't failed but I took the action as a preventative measure.
Once the first set of N rated tyres wore out (not much tread on them to start with !) I replaced with a set of non N rated (oh the horror it !) Yokohama SUV tyres.
massive improvement in lowering noise, reducing roll, and generally increasing grip all round - and lasted;
I did buy a set of Pirelli M+S tyres & an second set of 19" wheels to take of the 20" summer use sport techno's
The car performed flawlessly in snow and ice, including towing several cars out of drifts and up icy roads - used to live in a very rural location.
Other stuff that broke;
drivers side window reg - replaced this myself for about £75 and half a day of my labour
Brake pads all round
discs still OK !
rear washer jet broke - common fault - again simple and cheap fix - essential to get fixed though, as the pipe pops off and floods the rear drivers side pillar located ECU...
drivers side adaptive light kept throwing up an error - think this was down to a corroded bulb connection - swapped out the bulbs and never saw it again
think that was it..
considering I bought it when the financial markets crashed and nobody wanted big cars, I traded it in several years later to an OPC for more than I paid for it !
averaged 19mpg - mostly motorway driving
I'd definitely have another
did approx 60K miles over a few years
Used it in all weathers, and yes it really does come into it's own in snow with M+S tyres
it a straight line, it had no real trouble keeping up with my 996 GT3.... and wasn't much behind on the bends
I had the coolant pipes replaced as part of a major OPC service - bit of haggling got the price down to £1500 inc Vat for the pipes plus a major;
mine hadn't failed but I took the action as a preventative measure.
Once the first set of N rated tyres wore out (not much tread on them to start with !) I replaced with a set of non N rated (oh the horror it !) Yokohama SUV tyres.
massive improvement in lowering noise, reducing roll, and generally increasing grip all round - and lasted;
I did buy a set of Pirelli M+S tyres & an second set of 19" wheels to take of the 20" summer use sport techno's
The car performed flawlessly in snow and ice, including towing several cars out of drifts and up icy roads - used to live in a very rural location.
Other stuff that broke;
drivers side window reg - replaced this myself for about £75 and half a day of my labour
Brake pads all round
discs still OK !
rear washer jet broke - common fault - again simple and cheap fix - essential to get fixed though, as the pipe pops off and floods the rear drivers side pillar located ECU...
drivers side adaptive light kept throwing up an error - think this was down to a corroded bulb connection - swapped out the bulbs and never saw it again
think that was it..
considering I bought it when the financial markets crashed and nobody wanted big cars, I traded it in several years later to an OPC for more than I paid for it !
averaged 19mpg - mostly motorway driving
I'd definitely have another
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