Porsche 996 GT2 4 wheel alignment understeer??
Discussion
I believe they understeer far too much on factory geo, although Mark 2 settings (on essentially the same car mechanically) are meant to be much better.
Go somewhere with a consultative approach to providing you with what you want. Unit 11, Ninemeister (open evening this Wednesday), Hartech, Sports & Classic at good North West examples.
Go somewhere with a consultative approach to providing you with what you want. Unit 11, Ninemeister (open evening this Wednesday), Hartech, Sports & Classic at good North West examples.
wycoller said:
Heard a lot on this subject having mine set to factory settings by Jasmine Porsche comments welcome.Are factory settings good for the road or too much understeer etc
Anyone any suggestions for road use good setting diaaling out the understeer etc
I thought the car drove perfectly as was. I think going to standard geo is a backward step. Why not drive it as is before deciding? Anyone any suggestions for road use good setting diaaling out the understeer etc
wycoller said:
Heard a lot on this subject having mine set to factory settings by Jasmine Porsche comments welcome.Are factory settings good for the road or too much understeer etc
Anyone any suggestions for road use good setting diaaling out the understeer etc
Geo is only part of the equation, ride heights and corner weights are equally as important to how the car drives.Anyone any suggestions for road use good setting diaaling out the understeer etc
Center Gravity, Mike at Sports and Classic, Matt at Fearnsport or Parr would be high on my list to carry out such work.
But would tend to agree, the stock geo isn't ideal with standard suspension.
The Mk2 settings merely tightened the tolerances over those of the Mk1 IIRC. The spring and damper rates were changed for the Mk2 cars.
m33ufo said:
wycoller said:
Heard a lot on this subject having mine set to factory settings by Jasmine Porsche comments welcome.Are factory settings good for the road or too much understeer etc
Anyone any suggestions for road use good setting diaaling out the understeer etc
I thought the car drove perfectly as was. I think going to standard geo is a backward step. Why not drive it as is before deciding? Anyone any suggestions for road use good setting diaaling out the understeer etc
MNark
Brian at Jasmine picked up car to do inspection for insurance and said that the steering wheel was off centre and that his worker followed him home and stated there was so much camber on rear that only about 3 inch tyre was in contact with road and on bumpy slippery roads the car was very skittish. I queeried him regards factory settings as i have been following forums etc and he said factory settings were the ones i should have, now i,m not to sure.
I should hold till i get home and drive the car yet i dont want to find out hes right and end up goig backwards and doing some haymaking.
Now form what i hear and read on GT2 Forum that factory settings are nonsense
Huffie did insert a lot of camber on the rear. If you take a look at some of the GT2 shots you'll see the same on quite a few cars.
I'd agree the car feels skittish, I liked it that way. Although it is on AO48R's which aren't going to be ideal in cold, damp conditions - unless you've changed them for the PS2's?
I'd agree the car feels skittish, I liked it that way. Although it is on AO48R's which aren't going to be ideal in cold, damp conditions - unless you've changed them for the PS2's?
m33ufo said:
Huffie did insert a lot of camber on the rear. If you take a look at some of the GT2 shots you'll see the same on quite a few cars.
I'd agree the car feels skittish, I liked it that way. Although it is on AO48R's which aren't going to be ideal in cold, damp conditions - unless you've changed them for the PS2's?
All the above shouts great on track, but near hopeless on the road. Too much camber on the road means pointy turn in, car fidgets and follows cambers, but lacks ultimate grip due to reduced tyre contact area.I'd agree the car feels skittish, I liked it that way. Although it is on AO48R's which aren't going to be ideal in cold, damp conditions - unless you've changed them for the PS2's?
Standard geo on track tends towards understeer but snap oversteer when the limit is reached.
You'll need to decide what the car's primary useage is going to be, if it's mainly track, you'll have to live with a compromised road set up to get the best out of the car on track and vice versa if the you intend using it mainly on the road.
PS2's pretty hopeless in our current weather conditions/temperatures, the Yokos no better.
m33ufo said:
It's a track based set-up as you'd expect. I actually loved it on the road. Feels like it's on its toes. Fantastic feedback.
looks like i need to check it out car is going to be road use and track days as it was designed to be, road use trips up scotland lakes etc and maybe a drive to triesteso whats the best rubber i dont intend to try to wring its neck in winter anyway
wycoller said:
Heard a lot on this subject having mine set to factory settings by Jasmine Porsche comments welcome.Are factory settings good for the road or too much understeer etc
Anyone any suggestions for road use good setting diaaling out the understeer etc
Mine was set on factory Porsche settings which almost killed me. Book the car into CG and while your at it, buy eitherAnyone any suggestions for road use good setting diaaling out the understeer etc
Fresh rear Toe Links or Spherical Rod end Cup links. It gives the rear end a vastly improved feel. Once you have these simple tweaks done along with the GEO it unlocks a driving experience that's hard to match.
I can't remember if both anti-roll bars are adjustable on the GT2 but you could try simply stiffening the rear or softening the front ARB and see if that cures the problem - there is a lot of adjustment available there for free, no point using the sledgehammer of spending ££££ on an expensive setup when porsche have given you a fair range of adjustment for free.
consul said:
Mine was set on factory Porsche settings which almost killed me. Book the car into CG and while your at it, buy either
Fresh rear Toe Links or Spherical Rod end Cup links. It gives the rear end a vastly improved feel. Once you have these simple tweaks done along with the GEO it unlocks a driving experience that's hard to match.
you previous post on this subject stuck in my mindFresh rear Toe Links or Spherical Rod end Cup links. It gives the rear end a vastly improved feel. Once you have these simple tweaks done along with the GEO it unlocks a driving experience that's hard to match.
i had a full race spec lotus cortina mk 1 with leida and bilstein adjustable suspension and used to play arounbd with the settings and god did i experience some side way jumps until by trial and error got it right but that was a simple set up no i feel i should with all due respect to Brian have a trip down to CG in April
itll be a day out
ill let you know how it goes Huffie changed the coil overs and had new rear shocks fitted
There not cars to experiment with like the Cortina, my Consul that I'm building has a 4 Link rear and Coilover which I can tweak for launch purposes but there is far to much adjustment on the GT2 to be playing with.
If you look at my car, it sits 10mm below factory ride height but I did not want aggressive camber to the front and rear due
to contact patch issues at the front and rear, so Chris has moved the top mounts out at the front so that I don't have the usual track car look on the front. The rear is running around 2 degrees of camber which anything more than that for the street for one will give you excessive tread wear and also not that good for putting the power down due to contact patch reduction. Adjustable dog bones will give you the adjustment at the rear for Camber but that's a different story if you want further flexibility.
Anygood chassis tuner will give you the set up you want, I wanted a streetable car with good turn in without the snap breakaway at the rear and thats exactly what Chris gave me.
If you look at my car, it sits 10mm below factory ride height but I did not want aggressive camber to the front and rear due
to contact patch issues at the front and rear, so Chris has moved the top mounts out at the front so that I don't have the usual track car look on the front. The rear is running around 2 degrees of camber which anything more than that for the street for one will give you excessive tread wear and also not that good for putting the power down due to contact patch reduction. Adjustable dog bones will give you the adjustment at the rear for Camber but that's a different story if you want further flexibility.
Anygood chassis tuner will give you the set up you want, I wanted a streetable car with good turn in without the snap breakaway at the rear and thats exactly what Chris gave me.
Edited by consul on Tuesday 10th February 13:58
Edited by consul on Tuesday 10th February 14:00
Edited by consul on Tuesday 10th February 16:57
consul said:
There not cars to experiment with like the Cortina, my Consul that I'm building has a 4 Link rear and Coilover which I can tweak for launch purposes but there is far to much adjustment on the GT2 to be playing with.
If you look at my car, it sits 10mm below factory ride height but I did not want aggressive camber to the front and rear due
to contact patch issues at the front and rear, so Chris has moved the top mounts out at the front so that I don't have the usual track car look on the front. The rear is running around 2 degrees of camber which anything more than that for the street for one will give you excessive tread wear and also not that good for putting the power down due to contact patch reduction. Adjustable dog bones will give you the adjustment at the rear for Camber but that's a different story if you want further flexibility.
Anygood chassis tuner will give you the set up you want, I wanted a streetable car with good turn in without the snap breakaway at the rear and thats exactly what Chris gave me.
thanks sounds like what im looking for i have a supercharged griff and have mild understeer but good squat and bite at the rear for power out oversteer without the snap thats as long as no diesel on the road. and were do people tend to test well i do on open roundabout junctions worst place for diesel slosh
If you look at my car, it sits 10mm below factory ride height but I did not want aggressive camber to the front and rear due
to contact patch issues at the front and rear, so Chris has moved the top mounts out at the front so that I don't have the usual track car look on the front. The rear is running around 2 degrees of camber which anything more than that for the street for one will give you excessive tread wear and also not that good for putting the power down due to contact patch reduction. Adjustable dog bones will give you the adjustment at the rear for Camber but that's a different story if you want further flexibility.
Anygood chassis tuner will give you the set up you want, I wanted a streetable car with good turn in without the snap breakaway at the rear and thats exactly what Chris gave me.
thanks sounds like what im looking for i have a supercharged griff and have mild understeer but good squat and bite at the rear for power out oversteer without the snap thats as long as no diesel on the road. and were do people tend to test well i do on open roundabout junctions worst place for diesel slosh
Edited by consul on Tuesday 10th February 13:58
Edited by consul on Tuesday 10th February 14:00
Edited by consul on Tuesday 10th February 16:57
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