997 extremely wet lower doors

997 extremely wet lower doors

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Discussion

Waisal

Original Poster:

26 posts

108 months

Monday 25th January 2016
quotequote all
Hello All

My 2006 997 which I have owned for 6 months I noticed that windows steaming up after driving and parking, I kept checking carpets by doors and all seemed OK.
Last night I checked the lower part of the doors the carpeted area and it was drenched when I pressed water came gushing out approx a mugful from each side.

Having researched this it looks like door membranes/seals have perished and need replacing.

I have spoken with 3 independent specialist in my area N Manchester asking about repair all 3 have said that the entire metal inner door cover with membrane needs replacing with each part costing around £140 inc VAT and around 1.5 hours fitting time so well over £450 in total.

I was wondering if anyone has had this repair done as I gather it is relatively common on 997's and if perhaps there is a cheaper option of repair.

Thankfully the floor carpets are very lightly damp just by the door so I have just caught this in time before any potential electrical damage.

Thanks in advance




Magic919

14,126 posts

203 months

Monday 25th January 2016
quotequote all
Misread this at first, but I take it that's for both.

I just had one done, plus a window regulator (parts cost little more than the membrane) and it was £490 inc VAT.

Waisal

Original Poster:

26 posts

108 months

Monday 25th January 2016
quotequote all
Yes both doors so about £500 in total, I read that just the seals could be replaced as opposed to the inner metal cover and seal but all 3 I have spoken with have said that the seal doesn't come separately.

markoc

1,084 posts

198 months

Monday 25th January 2016
quotequote all
I had this on a boxster - don't think there's an alternative I'm afraid (though I was lucky enough that my warranty covered it so no idea of cost)

Magic919

14,126 posts

203 months

Monday 25th January 2016
quotequote all
Probably just getting lost in translation. I understand it is a metallic cover and is fitted using some kind of goo. They pull it off, scrape off the hardened residue and then apply a new one.

Waisal

Original Poster:

26 posts

108 months

Monday 25th January 2016
quotequote all
Yes thats right

Good write up on this forum by someone who has done a DIY repair...not too sure about longevity though.

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/997/380448-carr...

Magic919

14,126 posts

203 months

Monday 25th January 2016
quotequote all
Mine have never leaked and I wonder whether it's just a matter of time or is it that some get disturbed when replacing the regulators.

Both my Gen 2s (08 and 59, had them almost 3 years) have need a replacement driver's side regulator. They get a bit noisy, one squeaked and the other sounded gritty, like bits in the gears.

Do you think you are keeping it? If so, then get the job done as you've described. Get them to check the regulators as it's going to be the cheapest time to replace those.

Trev450

6,339 posts

174 months

Monday 25th January 2016
quotequote all
I'm currently in the same position with my Cayman S. Had both window regs replaced and my indy has attemped to save me some money by resealing the original membranes. Unfortunately it hasn't worked so it looks as if new ones are the only option.

Edited by Trev450 on Monday 25th January 17:00

Waisal

Original Poster:

26 posts

108 months

Monday 25th January 2016
quotequote all
Yes I think it looks the same way for me again everyone I have spoken to says that replacing the whole metal inner panel and seal is the most effective way of stopping the flood!

996TT02

3,309 posts

142 months

Monday 25th January 2016
quotequote all
Before you spend any money (and if you are handy) you may want to check out the reason for the failure of the membrane. It could be torn, or it could have been removed and not properly re-glued. Or simply not put in place properly, there are usually a couple of flaps that need to direct drips towards the inside of the door cavity.

What you need to know is that the correct stuff to use to reattach/seal it, if applicable, is butyl sealer. Cheap, sticky, and never hardens, so when you next need to remove the membrane, you can do so carefully without damaging it.

Normally you either have a bozo who rips the membrane when attempting to remove it to access the window or lock mechanisms, or does not apply new butyl sealer where necessary so it really does not seal well at all, so if the latter, nothing needs to be replaced.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Idealseal-Butyl-Rubber-S...

Waisal

Original Poster:

26 posts

108 months

Monday 25th January 2016
quotequote all
Thanks for the advice 996TT02

I'm very tempted to DIY but worried that with door card removal and all the other gubbins, airbags, regulators etc that something could go wrong and when refitted it may never be right again
I also don't have a garage or covered area to carry out the work
At this point Ill probably let the Pro's deal with it even though I'd prefer a cheaper, effective option,

996TT02

3,309 posts

142 months

Monday 25th January 2016
quotequote all
Waisal said:
Thanks for the advice 996TT02

I'm very tempted to DIY but worried that with door card removal and all the other gubbins, airbags, regulators etc that something could go wrong and when refitted it may never be right again
I also don't have a garage or covered area to carry out the work
At this point Ill probably let the Pro's deal with it even though I'd prefer a cheaper, effective option,
Well door card removal is not difficult as long as you know how... which really only refers to knowing where and how it is actually attached to the door frame, as the fixings are obviously hidden from view. Surely a removal how-to must exist for the 997, the most complicated tools you are likely to require are plastic levers (cheap on Ebay) and probably Torx bits for a bit-type screwdriver.

That done, no magic, just attention. Can be off in 5 minutes after the first time you do it.

Airbag will almost certainly not need removing if you are only re-glueing the membrane, and if it must be removed (normally some bolts, probably 10mm) the only thing to do is ensure that the key is out of the ignition and is never replaced/turned on before the airbag is reconnected, otherwise you get an error that needs clearing, that's it. If you need to drive without a door card, say you find the job very simple, but membrane damaged, and decide to replace it, just replace only the airbag, reconnect it, then use the car.

Regulator does not come into it, that's in the door cavity.

996TT02

3,309 posts

142 months