Clonking suspension
Discussion
Could do with a bit of advice here. 987 Cayman S with a clunk that has developed over the past few weeks into a banging noise over potholes etc.
By a process of elimination, I've worked out that the control arms, droplinks, arb bushes, springs, track rods & the damper are ok. With the exception of the damper & springs, all these parts are a year old, fitted by me. I've had the under tray off & checked the subframe mounting points & control arm to subframe bolts, all good. In my mind, that only leaves the top mounts. They were changed in June last year by a Porsche indie while it was in for a clutch but are the only component left in the front suspension I can't see at a glance & I suppose it's possible new parts can fail prematurely.
Couple of questions - is there anything I've missed in my assessment? The battery isn't loose & the boot doesn't have tennis balls rolling around in it.
If it is top mounts, I'm comfortable DIYing it but can see the standard springs are short and so any recommendations for a set of compressors suitable & do those springs need a great deal of compressing in the first place? Anything I need to know about removing the top nut? I've had trouble in the past with those & without looking, I'm guessing there is an allen bolt in there to stop contra rotation undoing the nut?
Thanks guys.
By a process of elimination, I've worked out that the control arms, droplinks, arb bushes, springs, track rods & the damper are ok. With the exception of the damper & springs, all these parts are a year old, fitted by me. I've had the under tray off & checked the subframe mounting points & control arm to subframe bolts, all good. In my mind, that only leaves the top mounts. They were changed in June last year by a Porsche indie while it was in for a clutch but are the only component left in the front suspension I can't see at a glance & I suppose it's possible new parts can fail prematurely.
Couple of questions - is there anything I've missed in my assessment? The battery isn't loose & the boot doesn't have tennis balls rolling around in it.
If it is top mounts, I'm comfortable DIYing it but can see the standard springs are short and so any recommendations for a set of compressors suitable & do those springs need a great deal of compressing in the first place? Anything I need to know about removing the top nut? I've had trouble in the past with those & without looking, I'm guessing there is an allen bolt in there to stop contra rotation undoing the nut?
Thanks guys.
I didn't need spring compressors on my PASM car.
There is a large washer under the top nut which is keyed to the damper rod. The washer has two cutouts to take a peg spanner to hold the rod from rotating while undoing the top nut. I made my own peg spanner but a Stillson wrench would probably do the job.
On my car, one of the damper rods was seized into the top mount bush so I placed a steel pipe over the loosened top nut, resting on the nut's integral washer, such that the PASM cable was protected inside the tube. I could then use a hammer on the end of the tube to drift the damper rod out of the bush while supporting the top mount.
When reassembling with new springs, I could easily get the top nut started by compressing the spring by hand.
There is a large washer under the top nut which is keyed to the damper rod. The washer has two cutouts to take a peg spanner to hold the rod from rotating while undoing the top nut. I made my own peg spanner but a Stillson wrench would probably do the job.
On my car, one of the damper rods was seized into the top mount bush so I placed a steel pipe over the loosened top nut, resting on the nut's integral washer, such that the PASM cable was protected inside the tube. I could then use a hammer on the end of the tube to drift the damper rod out of the bush while supporting the top mount.
When reassembling with new springs, I could easily get the top nut started by compressing the spring by hand.
DRH986 said:
I didn't need spring compressors on my PASM car.
When reassembling with new springs, I could easily get the top nut started by compressing the spring by hand.
This is interesting to me. The springs don't look (he says advisedly) like they have a great deal of tension in them when relaxed & I've chatted with a 986 owner who confirmed it's the case on his car at least, so the idea of jacking up the strut as a bit of guerilla mechanics appeals.When reassembling with new springs, I could easily get the top nut started by compressing the spring by hand.
Cmoose, I have PASM on my car so the cable poking through the top nut requires use of an injector socket with an impact gun and the cable hanging out of the side of the socket is at significant risk of being damaged.
You don't need spring compressors to disassemble or assemble the PASM front struts. I've not done our non-PASM car yet but I'd be surprised if that needs spring compressors either.
You don't need spring compressors to disassemble or assemble the PASM front struts. I've not done our non-PASM car yet but I'd be surprised if that needs spring compressors either.
Just about to embark on this. For clarity I'm changing the strut mounts only at this point. Quick question - jacking the wheel carrier & undoing the top nut is the intention. Using this method, do I need to undo anything else in order for the strut to relax enough to fully decompress the spring & allow me to whip off the old mounts?
None of that is a problem in itself, a quick glance suggests the droplinks need to come off however, I'm happy to take any advice.
None of that is a problem in itself, a quick glance suggests the droplinks need to come off however, I'm happy to take any advice.
Yes, it was the strut mounts. All the clonking from the n/s yet the o/s mount was the most damaged. I had them replaced in June last year while it was in at a Porsche indy for a clutch.
I supplied the parts & whilst I can't be certain, the ones I took off the car this morning look ancient. However, there's nothing stamped on the mounts to indicate production date so I'll never know, but I can't help but doubt they were changed given the state of them & that apparently new parts failed in 12 months.
Chalk it up & move on.
I supplied the parts & whilst I can't be certain, the ones I took off the car this morning look ancient. However, there's nothing stamped on the mounts to indicate production date so I'll never know, but I can't help but doubt they were changed given the state of them & that apparently new parts failed in 12 months.
Chalk it up & move on.
Eddie Strohacker said:
Yes, it was the strut mounts. All the clonking from the n/s yet the o/s mount was the most damaged. I had them replaced in June last year while it was in at a Porsche indy for a clutch.
I supplied the parts & whilst I can't be certain, the ones I took off the car this morning look ancient. However, there's nothing stamped on the mounts to indicate production date so I'll never know, but I can't help but doubt they were changed given the state of them & that apparently new parts failed in 12 months.
Chalk it up & move on.
I supplied the parts & whilst I can't be certain, the ones I took off the car this morning look ancient. However, there's nothing stamped on the mounts to indicate production date so I'll never know, but I can't help but doubt they were changed given the state of them & that apparently new parts failed in 12 months.
Chalk it up & move on.
You sir have a good attitude. Happy motoring!
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