C2S three years of the road what to do
Discussion
A good friend of mine has been living in the states for several years. His 996 C2S has been garaged since three years. Nothing has been done when the car was put in the garage, hence the fuel and oil are still in place.
What should be done to get this car on the road again.
Since it has very low mileage I might be interested to buy it from him. Would that be a good idea?
I am runnng a 2.5 Boxster now 1997 with 220.000 miles on the clock (and stil going strong)
Would appreciate your comments
Regards
Ronny VAndereydt
What should be done to get this car on the road again.
Since it has very low mileage I might be interested to buy it from him. Would that be a good idea?
I am runnng a 2.5 Boxster now 1997 with 220.000 miles on the clock (and stil going strong)
Would appreciate your comments
Regards
Ronny VAndereydt
A friend laid up his 996 cab for a year while on a job in Rio. It was laid up professionally on blocks and so on, but the engine was not turned over during his absence. On first start-up the engine suffered catastrophic failure and had to be replaced, fortunately under warranty as it had full OPC service history. I don't know the details of the failure unfortunately, but one problem of laid up cars can be a valve sticking open/weakened valve springs, hence piston says hello to valve and you say goodbye to engine.
I'd suggest after the 3 years that there may be some risk in just changing the fluids and turning the key. I'd want to take the plugs out and put oil in the cylinders and turn the engine over by hand before starting her up. Unfortunately on a porker this would probably be best done with engine out? The choice is to either trailer the car to a pro for appropriate love and attention, or just check your bank balance, change all fluids, cross your fingers and turn the key.
I'd suggest after the 3 years that there may be some risk in just changing the fluids and turning the key. I'd want to take the plugs out and put oil in the cylinders and turn the engine over by hand before starting her up. Unfortunately on a porker this would probably be best done with engine out? The choice is to either trailer the car to a pro for appropriate love and attention, or just check your bank balance, change all fluids, cross your fingers and turn the key.
Do not start the engine.
Unless its been professionally laid up then there is a very real risk that the crank has rusted and there will be reduced/no clearance for the oil film in the big ends. I would have the engine thoroughly inspected before turning the key.
If you are feeling brave, pull the plugs out, give each bore a squirt of oil and with the plugs still out, crank it over for a good couple of minutes. You'll need more than one battery to do this. Then put the plugs back in and cross your fingers.
If you are thinking of buying it, don't more than it would be worth with a dead engine.
Unless its been professionally laid up then there is a very real risk that the crank has rusted and there will be reduced/no clearance for the oil film in the big ends. I would have the engine thoroughly inspected before turning the key.
If you are feeling brave, pull the plugs out, give each bore a squirt of oil and with the plugs still out, crank it over for a good couple of minutes. You'll need more than one battery to do this. Then put the plugs back in and cross your fingers.
If you are thinking of buying it, don't more than it would be worth with a dead engine.
Raven Flyer said:
Do not start the engine.
Unless its been professionally laid up then there is a very real risk that the crank has rusted and there will be reduced/no clearance for the oil film in the big ends. I would have the engine thoroughly inspected before turning the key.
If you are feeling brave, pull the plugs out, give each bore a squirt of oil and with the plugs still out, crank it over for a good couple of minutes. You'll need more than one battery to do this. Then put the plugs back in and cross your fingers.
If you are thinking of buying it, don't more than it would be worth with a dead engine.
Raven Flyer - With your regard to the Brave remark - Would that be wise.. as this would expose the fuel system/injectors to dodgy fuel and also the unburnt fuel would enter into the exhaust system potentially causing damage to the Catalysts'
nbetts said:
Do not start the engine.
Unless its been professionally laid up then there is a very real risk that the crank has rusted and there will be reduced/no clearance for the oil film in the big ends. I would have the engine thoroughly inspected before turning the key.
If you are feeling brave, pull the plugs out, give each bore a squirt of oil and with the plugs still out, crank it over for a good couple of minutes. You'll need more than one battery to do this. Then put the plugs back in and cross your fingers.
If you are thinking of buying it, don't more than it would be worth with a dead engine.
Raven Flyer - With your regard to the Brave remark - Would that be wise.. as this would expose the fuel system/injectors to dodgy fuel and also the unburnt fuel would enter into the exhaust system potentially causing damage to the Catalysts'
After 3 years, there won't be any fuel in the tank. There may be a bit in the lines, but this will get blown through during cranking. With the plugs out, everything will blow out through the spark plug hole. Nothing will go down the exhaust.
Personally, I'd get the engine out, heads off and pistons out. I'd want a good look at the big and little end bearings, plus the bores and cam trains.
Raven Flyer said:
After 3 years, there won't be any fuel in the tank. There may be a bit in the lines, but this will get blown through during cranking. With the plugs out, everything will blow out through the spark plug hole. Nothing will go down the exhaust.
Personally, I'd get the engine out, heads off and pistons out. I'd want a good look at the big and little end bearings, plus the bores and cam trains.
IMHO that sounds a little extreme. I've started engines which are usually laid up for 12 months (cars left at my folk's holiday home) and on another occasion a BMW which hadn't turned a wheel for 7 years without having to open the engines up.
All I did was take the fuel pump fuse out, cranked the engine over for a few minutes to build up the oil pressure, put the fuse back in, filled the tank with fuel and they all started first time.
The car needs to be serviced and have all the fluids changed. Also the tyres may have cured so be careful when you get it going - there won't be much grip even if there's loads of tread left.
vandereydt said:
It is a rear wheel driven, "S", cabrio. The guy had all the GT3 spoilers and other body work factory fitted. When I get to see the car I'll take some pics.
nope still doesn't exist - pick one from below:
a) the 4wd 996 C4S cabrio
b) the rwd 996 C2 cabrio with GT3 kit (and maybe tiptronic S gearbox)
if he stuck the "S" badge he is a bit sad IMHO
really - absolutely every fluid should be changed before a start is attempted. Oils, fuels, greases, and brake/clutch fluids all breakdown with time as well as use. With oils and greases acids start to form when they breakdown and of course they aren't regularly washing the bits they ought to be so you have two bad things there. So you could have a fair degradation of these essentials, without even think of build ups of rust and stuff on parts that aren't in oil.
Assuming once the fluids have been changed and its run and behaving ok, i would treat it like a new engine (i.e. give it a run in period) and then change the fluids again at 500-1000miles depending on how things are going (that means *definitely* change it all, but adjust the interval to how confident you are feeling).
People often groan when you suggest this, but really its a small price to pay and when you do see the test done on oil etc and how badly they do break down when left for long periods etc you soon realise that these guys (oil experts) don't joke around. In fact old oil that has sat around for a few years in an unused engine is probably worse than oil that is past its use by date in a regularly used engine!!
Assuming once the fluids have been changed and its run and behaving ok, i would treat it like a new engine (i.e. give it a run in period) and then change the fluids again at 500-1000miles depending on how things are going (that means *definitely* change it all, but adjust the interval to how confident you are feeling).
People often groan when you suggest this, but really its a small price to pay and when you do see the test done on oil etc and how badly they do break down when left for long periods etc you soon realise that these guys (oil experts) don't joke around. In fact old oil that has sat around for a few years in an unused engine is probably worse than oil that is past its use by date in a regularly used engine!!
vandereydt said:
Are you telling me that there was no S version for that model year??
Sure I might be wrong, havent seen the car for years
Ronny
No I am really telling you there is no such model as a 996 C2S (there was a 993 C2S, there was a 996 C4S). In later Porsches the tip box was revised and called tiptronic S which might be where the confusion lies. This does not make it an S model. Your car is a 996 C2 cabrio tip with a GT3 kit.
Hope this clarifies.
>> Edited by Adam B on Tuesday 13th December 10:32
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