Lifting the rear end of a 944 for maintenance - help

[ripton]

Hope you've all had a good christmas an santa was nice to you.

I ned to replace a one of the CV joits on my 944 turbo and was hoping for some advice on gettting the rear end in the air. Do I jack one side from the centre jacking point, pop a jack stand under the rear point, lower the jack and repeat for the other side or is there a better way? Can it be done without lifting the car - a mate has a pit in his garage.

I would appreciate any useful comments.

Cheers

Chris

[studog]

I was planning on doing the same thing once it warms up a little.
My plan was to run it up ramps to get access. A pit would be even better.

[diver944]

You've got it in one Chris, but remember to adequately chock the front wheels just in case. With the rear wheels in the air you obviously can't use the handbrake or gearbox to stop the car rolling.

[Melv]

Can you chock the fronts, jack it off the diff and lower it onto axle stands under the jacking points?

[JT944]

hi use the pit you will work better if you no you will not be wearing your 44 on your head.i have not had to change one yet on mine so i cant say wat sort of job it is.but a pit and good light should do the trick

[interloper]

I have carried out this job, choking the front, jacking on the tranny and suporting the car on axle stands is how I did it. Removing the drive shafts wasn't hard but replacing the CV's is difficult. You will probably need a work bench, a decent pair of heavy duty circlip pliers and adjustable pliers plus other bits and bobs.

[ripton]

[redacted]

[ripton]

interloper said:

Removing the drive shafts wasn't hard but replacing the CV's is difficult. You will probably need a work bench, a decent pair of heavy duty circlip pliers and adjustable pliers plus other bits and bobs.

What was hard about it, physicaly separating the parts?

[alanruss]

I have done this on my 83 944 Lux (Driveshafts). Top tip here, you will need a special key to do this easily. Connecting the driveshafts to the central gearbox housing uses about 6 - 8? bolts where they go into threads on the housing and you need to undo them. (On mine) It has what looks like an allen key fitting but clean them out with a precision screwdriver and you might find that they are a special fitting like mine whis like a 9 pointed star which looks like an allen key when a bit gunked up. It looks a bit like a really big 'torx' bolt like you get in electronics and I have one of those 100 piece pro socket sets and the bit wasn't in there so I had to get it. I made this mistake before getting the part and had to get a few more bolts from Porsche as they rounded out a bit and I didn't want to put them back in like that but they were only about £1.50 each.

PM me if you'd like more info on the part you need. I got a 'Laser' one and it fits onto to end of a socket wrench and with a few taps of a hammer fits in nicely (if its gunked up or rounded out from before!). I have some photos of the job I did too.

Hope this helps.

>> Edited by alanruss on Thursday 5th January 18:28

[interloper]

In reply to.

[What was hard about it, physicaly separating the parts?]

Seperating the CV's and the circlips is fiddly and time consuming. The CV's dont really want to come away from the driveshafts without a fight.

[monkfish1]

Hi, The tool in question is a spline drive tool, be careful not to use a torx as this will damage the bolst whilst seeming to fit.

regards

[studog]

I finally got round to changing my cv joints over christmas.
It is a fairly easy job to do. The perils of undoing the bolts
detailed above. I was lucky and found a 6mm allen socket fitted
perfectly and allowed the correct torque to retighten them. Get the
proper tool for safety though (I couldn't find one anywhere).

Gettting the joints apart is easy provided you have a vice to hold the shaft.
If you cut off the rubber boot the joint can be driven off the splines
with a soft faced mallet once the circlip is off.

The plan of using ramps worked fine for access but a pit would be even better.
Personally I'm not keen on the jacking on the transmission route. The gearbox
crossmember was never designed for carrying the weight of the car. But if others
are happy who am I to question.

Good luck with it.

[ripton]

Have just come out from under the car wondering wtf the bolts are, to read the above comments. All very useful - thanks guys. Will find a spline drive bit (there is a bit too much play with a 6mm hex). One of them is looking like its been stripped on a previous attempt. A mate with more mechanical experience and tools is going to pop in to have a look on friday so I'll post an update after that.

>> Edited by ripton for cold fingered spelling on Sunday 8th January 16:36

>> Edited by ripton on Sunday 8th January 16:42

[monkfish2]

you can get a spline drive bit and set from partco or similar. Use some medium strenght loctite threadlocking compound when you put the bolts back in, as they often come loose and leave you dumped at the side of the road linke mine did!!

[gadgit]

Ripton, I'm in Cambridge and just done mine!!

Take my advice when you get it off!
Take it to express auto/electro Parts, chedders lane, 01223 505070.

They will replace the CV, or the pair, mine were £85+vat for the pair fitted with brand new boots. you can have one done if you want, but its best to have them both done for that price.

you will have a job to buy a pair of CV's for that price, and they were back all sprayed up like new in 2 days!! The chap in the shop will even give you a couple of grease packs for you to slap all over the ends before puting the shaft back on.

I would advise you jack the side up you want to work on and use axle stand for safety. Remember, you will need to turn the wheel on that side to get to some of the bolts, as bits get in the way. You use the handbrake to lock up when you turn the wheel to where you can get in with the ratchet and small extension.
Buy a good set of Splined Schraubsatz From Mackay's (camb) I think they were about £10-ish
Almost forgot? as previous people have said, you must clean each one out of all the muck before using the splined tool. Tap the tool in till its firm with a light hammer, the should come undone with no problem, remember, its a prosche, not a ford!
Drive axle bolts are 30 lbs torque.

Good luck

>> Edited by gadgit on Sunday 8th January 18:37

[ripton]

Cheers gadgit, top stuff.

Digging through my father-in-laws shed I found the right splined bit for the sockets set - Draper 3 piece set that fits into a half inch square drive adaptor.

I've already got the bits but will make a note of the place in cambs for future needs. Much cheaper than Eurocarparts.com

Cleaned all the bolts out with a bit of petrol and a toothbrush.

Now I've just got to deal with the bolt that some tw*t rounded off on a previous attempt!