Paint Protection Film
Discussion
Ross,
To be honest,no matter what company you use, the film will still be slightly visible on the edge.
There are ways to reduce the 'visibility' a bit. First, we make sure the car is clean ( I know its obvious but the paintwork under the film will shine through so if its dirty then the film will magnify this) and free from wax before applying the film. The second is to ensure it goes down in a clean and dust free environment as otherwise any dirt trapped under the film will cause small lumps which look like white domes.The kits we install are all pre cut off the car and where possible to the body edge so to minimise the chance of seeing the lip.
Once the film has cured after 5-7 days, it is important to clean the car and wax the paintwork and the film.
There is no other way to 'lose' the line. Its a decision you need to make I am afraid as to whether you can put up with a faint line or stone chips.
The installer is a major factor when fitting the film as they can over stretch and shock the film which leaves marks and lines in the film also.
Make sure the film you choose comes with a warranty on the paintwork underneath as well as against fading or discolouring.
If you need any more advice, dont hesitate to ask.
Cheers
Kev
To be honest,no matter what company you use, the film will still be slightly visible on the edge.
There are ways to reduce the 'visibility' a bit. First, we make sure the car is clean ( I know its obvious but the paintwork under the film will shine through so if its dirty then the film will magnify this) and free from wax before applying the film. The second is to ensure it goes down in a clean and dust free environment as otherwise any dirt trapped under the film will cause small lumps which look like white domes.The kits we install are all pre cut off the car and where possible to the body edge so to minimise the chance of seeing the lip.
Once the film has cured after 5-7 days, it is important to clean the car and wax the paintwork and the film.
There is no other way to 'lose' the line. Its a decision you need to make I am afraid as to whether you can put up with a faint line or stone chips.
The installer is a major factor when fitting the film as they can over stretch and shock the film which leaves marks and lines in the film also.
Make sure the film you choose comes with a warranty on the paintwork underneath as well as against fading or discolouring.
If you need any more advice, dont hesitate to ask.
Cheers
Kev
mikeg996 said:
Permagard, Permagard, Permagard.
www.permagard.info
You are kidding, right?
How can any liquid based 'stuff' protect any car from stonechips? Does this 'stuff' have specially opposed stone magnets that repel stones preventing them from hitting the car?
I assume most of these companies have now copied Armourfend and obtain the same 3M protection film (which was originally developed to protect the blade tips on helicopters, by the way). The last car I had protected by armourfend we used my car as the template (since it was the first car they had done) and I therefore helped them develop the design. There are two things that would make me choose one over the other; how the film is designed to reflect the contours of the car and how it is applied.
It's a skilled job and the last thing you want is bubbles or imperfections showing through, so chooose your fitter wisely. As has already been said, it's 'nearly' invisible but can still be seen and therefore how the film is shaped to reflect the contours and lines of your car will dictate whether it looks naff or more like a factory job. I personally found that Armourfend had a good 'designers eye'.
Before you choose, see other examples that have been worked on (usually parked outside) and check the quality of the fitting, then compare the design of the film pattern between respective companies and make sure whoever you choose has made the effort to blend it in properly.
It's a skilled job and the last thing you want is bubbles or imperfections showing through, so chooose your fitter wisely. As has already been said, it's 'nearly' invisible but can still be seen and therefore how the film is shaped to reflect the contours and lines of your car will dictate whether it looks naff or more like a factory job. I personally found that Armourfend had a good 'designers eye'.
Before you choose, see other examples that have been worked on (usually parked outside) and check the quality of the fitting, then compare the design of the film pattern between respective companies and make sure whoever you choose has made the effort to blend it in properly.
personal choice i suppose but i have detailed many cars over the years and i have never seen one where any of these films are invisible, in fact as time goes on they become more apparent due to a build up of dirt on the edges.
whilst its not going to stop stone chips many of my clients say it has vastly reduced them by having a good few coats of "proper" wax applied especially to the areas where they are going to pick up the chips.
whilst its not going to stop stone chips many of my clients say it has vastly reduced them by having a good few coats of "proper" wax applied especially to the areas where they are going to pick up the chips.
"I assume most of these companies have now copied Armourfend and obtain the same 3M protection film (which was originally developed to protect the blade tips on helicopters, by the way)"
Er no and no
There are at least 2 other manufacturers of film. Both have kept to the same 6mm film 2mm adhesive spec and they have better clarity.
Helicopter tape is very sticky, thinner and difficult to work with. It costs 3 figures for a roll
Er no and no
There are at least 2 other manufacturers of film. Both have kept to the same 6mm film 2mm adhesive spec and they have better clarity.
Helicopter tape is very sticky, thinner and difficult to work with. It costs 3 figures for a roll
Well I've had it fitted to 3 cars but a recent batch of film used by Armourfend seemed less perfect (with glue spots appearing under the film after a few months). Mine is on a Silver Grey car and has left me with virtually perfect paint (i.e. no stone chips) after 11,000 miles. Most of my mileage has been on track, sitting a few metres behing one car or another being pelted by stones and rubber marbles. The windscreen is very pitted, but the paintwork is excellent and I'm very glad that I fitted it. I also meticulously wax and seal the paintwork, but that's not nearly enough on its own. I don't fit it to all my cars, just those that are particularly suceptible or that I drive very fast.
big.bad.wolfie said:
mikeg996 said:
Permagard, Permagard, Permagard.
www.permagard.info
You are kidding, right?
How can any liquid based 'stuff' protect any car from stonechips? Does this 'stuff' have specially opposed stone magnets that repel stones preventing them from hitting the car?
I don't believe the original poster said anything about stone chips.
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