911 (996) Guide on 'How To Install ICE'
Discussion
I have found the basic system very poor, so I thought I would post the details of my install to make it easier for those that are also considering doing it.
I have chosen to use an Alpine Single CD unit with iPod adapter as I have found them a superb unit. I’ve then gone for 5.25” coaxials in the rear, 4” coaxials in the front (originals measure 4.5"
and an Alpine Active Sub SWD 1600 (no amp required) to provide the bass. The sub is small and compact and can be fitted almost anywhere.
This is not a boy racers set up…but it is clean, crisp and clear. I listen to a huge variety of music from Garage to Jazz to Chillout to RnB and it performs all these tasks exceptionally well.
By buying off the web this set up cost under £450.
HEAD UNIT.
I have chosen to use an Alpine Single CD unit with iPod adapter as I have found them a superb unit.
Put stereo extractor tools into the 2 slots at the bottom of the unit & push fully home. Then carefully pull the unit forward, I needed to use a screwdriver to ‘help’ it out...to prevent marking use electrical tape on the surrounding area prior to levering out. Once out detach cable harness & aerial.
To allow plenty of space I recommend removing the climate control above. Carefully remove the surround to it by pulling from the opening of the stereo. Then remove 2 top screws & pull out. This will allow you to put the unit in easily without snagging cables.
Fix the cage supplied with new stereo into the slot, then connect the existing cables and ipod cable (don’t forget the aerial). Also if you decide to use a powered sub then install these cables too. Now slide the new unit into position until it clicks.
Refit the Climate unit.
The ipod box fits nicely into the central tunnel below the stereo/infront of the gearstick. The footwell panel just pulls off (as always gently). The ipod connecting cable can then be neatly fitted into the glovebox by opening the glovebox & poking the lead through the hinge gap. Tidy cable out of view & refit panel.
Now test the unit.
REAR SPEAKERS
Remove the bottom seat cover from the Velcro fastening.
Use a 3mm torx driver to remove the two screws on the speaker grills. Carefully lever them out from the screw end of the teardrop cover & 4.5” speaker, as there is a hinge at the front. Disconnect the cable connector from the speaker.
To remove the panel you will need be careful doing this as there is a single screw to the rear of the FRONT seatbelt slot that needs undoing first. Then fold the seat down and remove the seat supporting pin with an allen key. Leave the seat in the down position. Now starting at the back you need to work your fingers under the panel and pull outwards. Now work from the speaker hole and pull panel outwards. At the front take care as there is a metal clip connecting it to the upper seat belt panel….it is bit awkward but just wiggle & pull. Now lift the panel out taking care of the bottom fixed panel lugs that slot into the car body.
Rear Speakers - 5.25" Infinity’s fit nicely with no cutting.
Remove some (an=bout 2cm) of the insulation from around the teardrop panel hole. You will need to drill 4 pilot holes for the screws into the inner body skin.. to do this offer up the new speaker and mark in pencil. I had a good feel around behind and there wasn't anything behind to puncture but I suggest you check for yourself just to make sure. Then put new connectors on the cables & wire into the speaker. Fix into position using self tapping screws (use one with a flat underside head so that it gets good contact) . The fixing is very secure and mine do not rattle/vibrate but if you want to be really sure use an isolation rubber / fibre washer between the speaker & body panel.
Now check to make sure it works.
To put the panel back, start at the bottom by inserting the lugs into the retaining points. Then carefully line the panel back into position. Now you will nee to use either a magnetised screwdriver or piece of tape to hold the screw in position as you put it through the seatbelt slot. Do NOT fully tighten. Now pull the door & window rubbers over the panel & push the panel back into position by applying firm force. Screw the seat supporting pin back in position & then tighten the front screw using finger force only. Put the seat base back in.
Remove the old speakers from the teardrops and then reinstall the covers with the 2no screws.
FRONT DASHBOARD SPEAKERS.
Remove the 2 No 3mm Torx screws & lift the unit out. Disconnect the speaker. Remove 3 screws holding the old speaker in position on the grille. Now fit the new 4” speaker (I’ve used coaxial speakers-that’s a mid range speaker with a tweeter in the middle) into the grille. What you will find is that the fixing points on the new speakers will need to be bent around the grille frame, pre-drill the holes and then fix with screws. Replace connectors if necessary and connect, then reinstall into dashboard. I have a picture of this if people want to see it for reference.
POWERED SUB.
Info to follow.
I have chosen to use an Alpine Single CD unit with iPod adapter as I have found them a superb unit. I’ve then gone for 5.25” coaxials in the rear, 4” coaxials in the front (originals measure 4.5"
and an Alpine Active Sub SWD 1600 (no amp required) to provide the bass. The sub is small and compact and can be fitted almost anywhere. This is not a boy racers set up…but it is clean, crisp and clear. I listen to a huge variety of music from Garage to Jazz to Chillout to RnB and it performs all these tasks exceptionally well.
By buying off the web this set up cost under £450.
HEAD UNIT.
I have chosen to use an Alpine Single CD unit with iPod adapter as I have found them a superb unit.
Put stereo extractor tools into the 2 slots at the bottom of the unit & push fully home. Then carefully pull the unit forward, I needed to use a screwdriver to ‘help’ it out...to prevent marking use electrical tape on the surrounding area prior to levering out. Once out detach cable harness & aerial.
To allow plenty of space I recommend removing the climate control above. Carefully remove the surround to it by pulling from the opening of the stereo. Then remove 2 top screws & pull out. This will allow you to put the unit in easily without snagging cables.
Fix the cage supplied with new stereo into the slot, then connect the existing cables and ipod cable (don’t forget the aerial). Also if you decide to use a powered sub then install these cables too. Now slide the new unit into position until it clicks.
Refit the Climate unit.
The ipod box fits nicely into the central tunnel below the stereo/infront of the gearstick. The footwell panel just pulls off (as always gently). The ipod connecting cable can then be neatly fitted into the glovebox by opening the glovebox & poking the lead through the hinge gap. Tidy cable out of view & refit panel.
Now test the unit.
REAR SPEAKERS
Remove the bottom seat cover from the Velcro fastening.
Use a 3mm torx driver to remove the two screws on the speaker grills. Carefully lever them out from the screw end of the teardrop cover & 4.5” speaker, as there is a hinge at the front. Disconnect the cable connector from the speaker.
To remove the panel you will need be careful doing this as there is a single screw to the rear of the FRONT seatbelt slot that needs undoing first. Then fold the seat down and remove the seat supporting pin with an allen key. Leave the seat in the down position. Now starting at the back you need to work your fingers under the panel and pull outwards. Now work from the speaker hole and pull panel outwards. At the front take care as there is a metal clip connecting it to the upper seat belt panel….it is bit awkward but just wiggle & pull. Now lift the panel out taking care of the bottom fixed panel lugs that slot into the car body.
Rear Speakers - 5.25" Infinity’s fit nicely with no cutting.
Remove some (an=bout 2cm) of the insulation from around the teardrop panel hole. You will need to drill 4 pilot holes for the screws into the inner body skin.. to do this offer up the new speaker and mark in pencil. I had a good feel around behind and there wasn't anything behind to puncture but I suggest you check for yourself just to make sure. Then put new connectors on the cables & wire into the speaker. Fix into position using self tapping screws (use one with a flat underside head so that it gets good contact) . The fixing is very secure and mine do not rattle/vibrate but if you want to be really sure use an isolation rubber / fibre washer between the speaker & body panel.
Now check to make sure it works.
To put the panel back, start at the bottom by inserting the lugs into the retaining points. Then carefully line the panel back into position. Now you will nee to use either a magnetised screwdriver or piece of tape to hold the screw in position as you put it through the seatbelt slot. Do NOT fully tighten. Now pull the door & window rubbers over the panel & push the panel back into position by applying firm force. Screw the seat supporting pin back in position & then tighten the front screw using finger force only. Put the seat base back in.
Remove the old speakers from the teardrops and then reinstall the covers with the 2no screws.
FRONT DASHBOARD SPEAKERS.
Remove the 2 No 3mm Torx screws & lift the unit out. Disconnect the speaker. Remove 3 screws holding the old speaker in position on the grille. Now fit the new 4” speaker (I’ve used coaxial speakers-that’s a mid range speaker with a tweeter in the middle) into the grille. What you will find is that the fixing points on the new speakers will need to be bent around the grille frame, pre-drill the holes and then fix with screws. Replace connectors if necessary and connect, then reinstall into dashboard. I have a picture of this if people want to see it for reference.
POWERED SUB.
Info to follow.
Edited by dasherdiablo1 on Tuesday 13th March 19:33
Edited by dasherdiablo1 on Thursday 15th March 08:28
Never a good idea to advise owners how work on their own cars.
I was in the specialist car audio game for over 10 years and the number of customer inflicted disasters I came across was scary to say the least.
The combination of lack of skill and brute force has led many a grown man to be reduced to tears.
Best laugh on a 996 was the customer who tried to remove his own stereo and stuck a screwdriver through his carbon fibre dashboard. Classic, especially as he was parked outside my shop at the time when he did it. Apparently he couldn't wait the extra ten minutes for us so decided to have a go himself.
I was in the specialist car audio game for over 10 years and the number of customer inflicted disasters I came across was scary to say the least.
The combination of lack of skill and brute force has led many a grown man to be reduced to tears.
Best laugh on a 996 was the customer who tried to remove his own stereo and stuck a screwdriver through his carbon fibre dashboard. Classic, especially as he was parked outside my shop at the time when he did it. Apparently he couldn't wait the extra ten minutes for us so decided to have a go himself.
Well that's why I've done it.....I have previously had work done by so called professional installers and have been shock at how they butchered what you can't see. It isn't rocket science and anyone with common sense, patience & a good tool kit can do the job. It means you can actually spend more money on the components than on labour! And to be honest...not everyone wants to leave their pride & joy with some monkey who fancies taking it for a spin.
For those that are unsure, just ask.....
For those that are unsure, just ask.....
steve996 said:
Was it definitely 4.5" for the dash speakers? I thought they were 100mm (4", I was thinking about a speaker upgrade myself so your post is quite timely.
, I was thinking about a speaker upgrade myself so your post is quite timely.Yes, they are 4" speakers. I've replaced my all my speakers in my C4S with MB Quart components (front and rear) and Infinity Kappa 5.25" in the doors....a major improvement!
damianc4s said:
steve996 said:
Was it definitely 4.5" for the dash speakers? I thought they were 100mm (4", I was thinking about a speaker upgrade myself so your post is quite timely.
, I was thinking about a speaker upgrade myself so your post is quite timely.Yes, they are 4" speakers. I've replaced my all my speakers in my C4S with MB Quart components (front and rear) and Infinity Kappa 5.25" in the doors....a major improvement!
Did you have Bose? Are you still running the Bose amp?
dasherdiablo1 said:
And to be honest...not everyone wants to leave their pride & joy with some monkey who fancies taking it for a spin.
For those that are unsure, just ask.....
For those that are unsure, just ask.....
Where have you been taking your cars? Dickheads R Us?
Car audio dealers taking customers cars around the block for a spin. Sounds a bit of a cliche to me.
As a matter of information, if you wanted to run a fully active system with the front stage out of phase, how do you remove the trim panels without snapping them?
Never ever run rear speakers in a quality system (unless you insist on a bandpass setup which I personally disapprove of) as it messes with the sound stage. Why use an active sub and waste your money on rear speakers? Spend the money on a good amplifier instead. Front components and a single sealed subwoofer offer the best results. Quick release mechanism allows the sub box to be removed from the back seat and be placed in the front boot.
Hey presto, six national trophies and 30+ Porsche installations later makes me sick of working on another Porsche
Edited by Wazza on Tuesday 13th March 23:46
Wazza,
What's your problem????
I'm not claiming to be some kind of sound-off king installer. I'm a regular guy trying to offer advice for a simple system refit.....not some all-out chav blasting idiot.
I don't know about the front panels because our car doesn't have speakers in the doors so it wasn't necessary. I suggest if you know the answer then you do something constructive and advise others on the best method.
The idea of the powered sub is to fill-the-gap that the smaller speakers cannot provide. I could have gone into how you could place 2 no 12" Subs with in line amps that sit discretely on the back shelf...but I didn't because I personally think that doesn't suit a 911.
This is advice for people who want to personalise their car themselves or who may be on a tight budget having saved hard for their dream 911, only to find the weakest link is a disappointing sound system.
What's your problem????
I'm not claiming to be some kind of sound-off king installer. I'm a regular guy trying to offer advice for a simple system refit.....not some all-out chav blasting idiot.
I don't know about the front panels because our car doesn't have speakers in the doors so it wasn't necessary. I suggest if you know the answer then you do something constructive and advise others on the best method.
The idea of the powered sub is to fill-the-gap that the smaller speakers cannot provide. I could have gone into how you could place 2 no 12" Subs with in line amps that sit discretely on the back shelf...but I didn't because I personally think that doesn't suit a 911.
This is advice for people who want to personalise their car themselves or who may be on a tight budget having saved hard for their dream 911, only to find the weakest link is a disappointing sound system.
windymiller said:
Bloody hell Wazza, you need to calm down mate!
He's not saying you're all $hit, but it is fair to say that there are a lot of places that are pretty shoddy about their installs, especially with the hidden wiring.
Now go an put your handbag away
He's not saying you're all $hit, but it is fair to say that there are a lot of places that are pretty shoddy about their installs, especially with the hidden wiring.
Now go an put your handbag away
Handbag back in the cupboard
ukwill said:
damianc4s said:
steve996 said:
Was it definitely 4.5" for the dash speakers? I thought they were 100mm (4", I was thinking about a speaker upgrade myself so your post is quite timely.
, I was thinking about a speaker upgrade myself so your post is quite timely.Yes, they are 4" speakers. I've replaced my all my speakers in my C4S with MB Quart components (front and rear) and Infinity Kappa 5.25" in the doors....a major improvement!
Did you have Bose? Are you still running the Bose amp?
No the Porsche 10 speaker upgrade, I'm still running the Porsche amplifier...and yes it's a MOST bus car.
Dasher.
I have a problem with my alpine stereo fitted . I went back to stereo fitter yesterday and we worked out after fitting old one again that the problem is still there. What happens is when I put my alarm on the lights flash twice then it gives a short beep of the horn. We have taped the plastic bit on the side of the unit so its like the original unit and metal doesn't come in contact with the sensor, but it's not fixed. It's def the unit as we have elliminated all other areas. He has fitted lots of Porsches before and this is new to him. ( He has a 996 turbo actually which is lovely). He is going to contact his buddy at Chiswick porsche on Monday and I am due for a service Monday so I will ask the OPC too. It's pretty frustrating though as I have already been to him in Surrey twice now and I live in Bmouth so a bit of a treck. Any help would be appreiated?
thanks
I have a problem with my alpine stereo fitted . I went back to stereo fitter yesterday and we worked out after fitting old one again that the problem is still there. What happens is when I put my alarm on the lights flash twice then it gives a short beep of the horn. We have taped the plastic bit on the side of the unit so its like the original unit and metal doesn't come in contact with the sensor, but it's not fixed. It's def the unit as we have elliminated all other areas. He has fitted lots of Porsches before and this is new to him. ( He has a 996 turbo actually which is lovely). He is going to contact his buddy at Chiswick porsche on Monday and I am due for a service Monday so I will ask the OPC too. It's pretty frustrating though as I have already been to him in Surrey twice now and I live in Bmouth so a bit of a treck. Any help would be appreiated?
thanks
Hi - I'd love to see a photo of the finished install. How well does it match your existing dashboard aesthetic? ;-)
I have a sub-optimal Porsche head unit driving only the dashboard speakers in mine (don't ask - it's a long, dull story) so in the event that my "replacement PCM from e-Bay" ruse fails I may be in the market for new ICE kit.
I have a sub-optimal Porsche head unit driving only the dashboard speakers in mine (don't ask - it's a long, dull story) so in the event that my "replacement PCM from e-Bay" ruse fails I may be in the market for new ICE kit.
Woogie,
I'm guessing there may be a short somewhere on the wiring loom that is tripping out the alarm. Knowing how tight all the cabling is when it comes to pushing the stereo back, there's a possibility that a cable has snagged and the sheathing had been damaged and is earthing out. Get the head unit and climat/ac control out again and have a thorough look at all the cables & connections.
It could be worth having an electrical test carried out by a specialist. However it could just be coincidence. Get a diagnostic check done by either a trusted specialist or OPC and they should be able to tell you what the alarm error is.
Hope this helps.....good luck.
I'm guessing there may be a short somewhere on the wiring loom that is tripping out the alarm. Knowing how tight all the cabling is when it comes to pushing the stereo back, there's a possibility that a cable has snagged and the sheathing had been damaged and is earthing out. Get the head unit and climat/ac control out again and have a thorough look at all the cables & connections.
It could be worth having an electrical test carried out by a specialist. However it could just be coincidence. Get a diagnostic check done by either a trusted specialist or OPC and they should be able to tell you what the alarm error is.
Hope this helps.....good luck.
dasherdiablo1 said:
Woogie,
I'm guessing there may be a short somewhere on the wiring loom that is tripping out the alarm. Knowing how tight all the cabling is when it comes to pushing the stereo back, there's a possibility that a cable has snagged and the sheathing had been damaged and is earthing out. Get the head unit and climat/ac control out again and have a thorough look at all the cables & connections.
It could be worth having an electrical test carried out by a specialist. However it could just be coincidence. Get a diagnostic check done by either a trusted specialist or OPC and they should be able to tell you what the alarm error is.
Hope this helps.....good luck.
I'm guessing there may be a short somewhere on the wiring loom that is tripping out the alarm. Knowing how tight all the cabling is when it comes to pushing the stereo back, there's a possibility that a cable has snagged and the sheathing had been damaged and is earthing out. Get the head unit and climat/ac control out again and have a thorough look at all the cables & connections.
It could be worth having an electrical test carried out by a specialist. However it could just be coincidence. Get a diagnostic check done by either a trusted specialist or OPC and they should be able to tell you what the alarm error is.
Hope this helps.....good luck.
cheers OPC are taking a look today but I said dont bill me for it just take a look.
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