Old SC to be given some gun on track in france this-need adv
Discussion
could anybody say what could possibly be my downfall in france ( mechanically - not mentally please !) this weekend 25th racing my 1981 204hp SC ?
It's freindly ( we'll actually it's war ) racing between some sevens, other english DIY and some Hot hatches.
Till now i've fitted some RED KOni specials ( adjusted rather too hard for my dogs comfort but that will change after the race ), changed the brake fluid for some lesser vintage ( DOT 4 only - should i get some 5 ?)
I'm thinking about going semi synthetic MOTUL oil - i used this in my old Racing LADA NIVA ( don't ask ) - it seemed to break less .
Anybody know of weakspots for 150.000 miles ......
As a last item on my list i need to sew the leather back on the steering wheel cause it's already 1/2 falling of when i negotiate a roundabout at 30 mph- but is that really all i should do to enjoy my day..
cheers for helping me calming down with some advice
It's freindly ( we'll actually it's war ) racing between some sevens, other english DIY and some Hot hatches.
Till now i've fitted some RED KOni specials ( adjusted rather too hard for my dogs comfort but that will change after the race ), changed the brake fluid for some lesser vintage ( DOT 4 only - should i get some 5 ?)
I'm thinking about going semi synthetic MOTUL oil - i used this in my old Racing LADA NIVA ( don't ask ) - it seemed to break less .
Anybody know of weakspots for 150.000 miles ......
As a last item on my list i need to sew the leather back on the steering wheel cause it's already 1/2 falling of when i negotiate a roundabout at 30 mph- but is that really all i should do to enjoy my day..
cheers for helping me calming down with some advice
nice porker .... always liked the old targa's!
Assuming that its well maintained, regularly serviced and you are not aware of any mechanical issues it has ...
Make sure that all fluids are topped up and that its suitably warmed up first then just give it a good spanking, it will probably do it the world of good ...
Show some mechanical sympathy RE rev range (i.e. don't go THROUGH the red bit and out the other side too often
)
Mine actually runs rough as fvck if i dont take it out and give it a serious ragging regularly ...
Edit to add - check tires, tire pressures, tracking and wheel balance perhaps !?!?
Assuming that its well maintained, regularly serviced and you are not aware of any mechanical issues it has ...
Make sure that all fluids are topped up and that its suitably warmed up first then just give it a good spanking, it will probably do it the world of good ...
Show some mechanical sympathy RE rev range (i.e. don't go THROUGH the red bit and out the other side too often
) Mine actually runs rough as fvck if i dont take it out and give it a serious ragging regularly ...
Edit to add - check tires, tire pressures, tracking and wheel balance perhaps !?!?
Edited by XJSJohn on Wednesday 22 August 07:22
I race a 204bhp SC and on the whole there's little to worry about, but here's a few things that might be useful to know.
Keep an eye on the oil temperature. My car has 2 oil coolers and is never a problem, but with only one and hotter weather than we have here you may be pushing it a bit, in which case give it a good rest between sessions.
Take the time to change gear properly - the 915 box needs care and can't change as fast as you can move your hand from one position to the next, so you have to regulate that speed somewhat.
If you have the chance to do so before going then get some decent brake pads. Pagid blue as a minimum, you could go up to black or yellow (which is what I use) if needed, but these need a little heat to work, the blues are OK from cold. Also, see if there's anything you can do to aid brake cooling - even if it's just removing the front foglights on the day.
I can't think of much else really, just go and enjoy it. If you notice any weak spots (over-heating brakes etc) then it's something to change for next time (if you're going to do it again).
Keep an eye on the oil temperature. My car has 2 oil coolers and is never a problem, but with only one and hotter weather than we have here you may be pushing it a bit, in which case give it a good rest between sessions.
Take the time to change gear properly - the 915 box needs care and can't change as fast as you can move your hand from one position to the next, so you have to regulate that speed somewhat.
If you have the chance to do so before going then get some decent brake pads. Pagid blue as a minimum, you could go up to black or yellow (which is what I use) if needed, but these need a little heat to work, the blues are OK from cold. Also, see if there's anything you can do to aid brake cooling - even if it's just removing the front foglights on the day.
I can't think of much else really, just go and enjoy it. If you notice any weak spots (over-heating brakes etc) then it's something to change for next time (if you're going to do it again).
Thanks guys, i've been to the shops got some ventilation ducting , those foglights are going - ( and the dragon and the tent won't be there on saturday - male bonding only ) . For the PADS i don't think i'll have time - are the Pagid really better than OE porsche ?
As for my newly 'ish rebuilt gearbox 915 style which oil would my racing forum friend recommend, knowing that i will stir that little stick really gently - but still try and beat the little sevens ( when the head for the pits obviously ).
cheers chris
As for my newly 'ish rebuilt gearbox 915 style which oil would my racing forum friend recommend, knowing that i will stir that little stick really gently - but still try and beat the little sevens ( when the head for the pits obviously ).
cheers chris
hotrubber007 said:
could anybody say what could possibly be my downfall in france ( mechanically - not mentally please !) this weekend 25th racing my 1981 204hp SC ?
It's freindly ( we'll actually it's war ) racing between some sevens, other english DIY and some Hot hatches.
Till now i've fitted some RED KOni specials ( adjusted rather too hard for my dogs comfort but that will change after the race ), changed the brake fluid for some lesser vintage ( DOT 4 only - should i get some 5 ?)
I'm thinking about going semi synthetic MOTUL oil - i used this in my old Racing LADA NIVA ( don't ask ) - it seemed to break less .
Anybody know of weakspots for 150.000 miles ......
As a last item on my list i need to sew the leather back on the steering wheel cause it's already 1/2 falling of when i negotiate a roundabout at 30 mph- but is that really all i should do to enjoy my day..
cheers for helping me calming down with some advice
New brake pads......It's freindly ( we'll actually it's war ) racing between some sevens, other english DIY and some Hot hatches.
Till now i've fitted some RED KOni specials ( adjusted rather too hard for my dogs comfort but that will change after the race ), changed the brake fluid for some lesser vintage ( DOT 4 only - should i get some 5 ?)
I'm thinking about going semi synthetic MOTUL oil - i used this in my old Racing LADA NIVA ( don't ask ) - it seemed to break less .
Anybody know of weakspots for 150.000 miles ......
As a last item on my list i need to sew the leather back on the steering wheel cause it's already 1/2 falling of when i negotiate a roundabout at 30 mph- but is that really all i should do to enjoy my day..
cheers for helping me calming down with some advice
Nothing worse than finding the backing half way around!
dilbert said:
New brake pads......
Nothing worse than finding the backing half way around!
Nothing worse than finding the backing half way around!
The only comparison I can make is driving a 3.2 round Croft and the OEM pads were hopeless. My race car used to run on Porterfield and I went through nearly a whole season - after changing everything else, inc both front calipers, and trying both genuine Porsche discs & cheap Zimmermans (if anything, Zimmermans actually took more use/abuse before warping) we eventually tried Pagid Blues. The transformation was tremendous - instead of pumping the brakes with my left foot on the straights to see if they would work at the end (and the cautious approach required if you suspect this may happen), they were there everytime. Blacks produce less "pick-up" (pad material melted onto the disc, sending it out of balance and causing vibration as well as reduced crake effort) which takes time to remove between sessions, and yellows are better still and last longer before deteriorating (usually start to crumble where the material meets the backing plate, so be aware that as you look throught the wheel there may appear to be loads left, but it may not be secure).
Whatever you do, take a spare set of some sort with you - even if it's standard Porsche ones (which will be either Textar or Pagid), and make sure you know how to change them (not rocket science) and have the tools you need to do it (they'll fit in one hand). Worth taking some 80grit wet & dry or similar in case you do get pad material all over your discs. Better to take the pads out first (not least so you can fully inspect them) and afterwards spray with an aerosol of Brake Cleaner and wipe dry.
Places that may have Pagid blues in stock include Questmead, Grand Prix Racewear and Performance Friction. I'm sure all of them have had to deliver at short notice, direct to the race circuit sometimes, so it's worth a call. Better to get rears as well as fronts while you're at it. If you get them, you could always do a back to back test from what's on now to what the new ones perform like. I believe you can find the correct bedding in procedure for race pads on Pagid's website, or try a search of this forum. I don't know it because I usually have to just get them warm and then go flat out to qualify/race etc which will not be best for them but it's not like I have a choice!
My box has Swepco oil in it, which was changed yesterday so the up to date price (from the garage who preps my car) is £38.50+VAT for 5 litres.
what i was wondering too .... 
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