Remote Fob Headache
Discussion
The fob key on my 99/T (996) Cab is playing up. The button on the fob that un/locks the car only works when it feels like it. Now it useless more often than useful. I can still get into the car by locking and unlocking with the key from the driver side door, but this is not ideal.
To complicate matters, the 2nd button on the fob (lower one that controls the hood/windows) works normally. Similarly, when I press the top button, the LED flashes, suggesting that it is transmitting some kind of signal. So I have tried to come up with some explanantion but none makes sense i.e
1) the car is either not able to interprete the signal being tranmitted i.e faulty receiver.....but I cannot explain how its still able to respond to the lower fob button
2) The top button is sending out the wrong signal.......but why does is work sometimes? How could this have happened
3) The receiver or fob is intermittently faulty. Is this possible?
The spare key does not have the fob on it and I think £300+ being asked by the OPC for a spare fob (including programming) is silly!
PS: I have tried a new battery in the fob and in any case, if its the battery, the fob will not lit (strongly and flashing) when pressed.
Any ideas?
To complicate matters, the 2nd button on the fob (lower one that controls the hood/windows) works normally. Similarly, when I press the top button, the LED flashes, suggesting that it is transmitting some kind of signal. So I have tried to come up with some explanantion but none makes sense i.e
1) the car is either not able to interprete the signal being tranmitted i.e faulty receiver.....but I cannot explain how its still able to respond to the lower fob button
2) The top button is sending out the wrong signal.......but why does is work sometimes? How could this have happened
3) The receiver or fob is intermittently faulty. Is this possible?
The spare key does not have the fob on it and I think £300+ being asked by the OPC for a spare fob (including programming) is silly!
PS: I have tried a new battery in the fob and in any case, if its the battery, the fob will not lit (strongly and flashing) when pressed.
Any ideas?
I've got the same problem (having also suspected and changed the battery to no effect) with one of the keys for my 2001 996TT fortunately I have a second one that works fine currently though - I'd be interested to find out how you get on, apologies for not being able to offer a more useful reply currently!
I thought an update on this might prove useful to anyone with similar plights.
Was told that the remedy would involve reprogramming the fob for around £350 by the OPC, and no cheaper at the specialist (as they also have to refer it to the OPC and subsequently to Porsche UK for the code).
I failed to accept this because from my 'basic knowledge of engineering' and I do remember being awarded a degree in aeronautics, there is/should be no need to reprogramme a fob that 1) Very occasionally lock/unlocks vehicle 2) Has no problem opening the windows/roof with the lower switch and 3)clearly has the immobiliser transponder working perfectly.
Opened up the fob and thorough cleaned it (by blowing over it). Presto, the fob works again. Decided to go further and clean with a air dryer (with minimal heat, off course) and it stops working again.
Back to mouth power and it works. Has been working well ever since (touch wood). So either something in there responds to been blown into (k1nky stuff) or operation was hindered by damp/dirt.
Goodluck charlie.
Was told that the remedy would involve reprogramming the fob for around £350 by the OPC, and no cheaper at the specialist (as they also have to refer it to the OPC and subsequently to Porsche UK for the code).
I failed to accept this because from my 'basic knowledge of engineering' and I do remember being awarded a degree in aeronautics, there is/should be no need to reprogramme a fob that 1) Very occasionally lock/unlocks vehicle 2) Has no problem opening the windows/roof with the lower switch and 3)clearly has the immobiliser transponder working perfectly.
Opened up the fob and thorough cleaned it (by blowing over it). Presto, the fob works again. Decided to go further and clean with a air dryer (with minimal heat, off course) and it stops working again.
Back to mouth power and it works. Has been working well ever since (touch wood). So either something in there responds to been blown into (k1nky stuff) or operation was hindered by damp/dirt.
Goodluck charlie.
Both my key-fobs went kaput, within a week of each other bizarrely. They failed to work at all for opening/closing anything and the red lights came on permanently. I tried replacing the battery in one, but no difference.
Spoke to OPC who said they needed replacing as 'broken' and needed reprogramming.
This was done and took about 45mins for both (using the handheld diagnostic device).
Both were done for free under the extended warranty (I extended my GT2 warranty from 2 to 4 years under warranty-link when the factory warranty was about to expire).
Another validation to me of why to buy a warranty and keep extending it.................
Guy
The reason the blowing trick works is probably down to moisture in your breath, providing an extra bit of connectivity? I used to do that trick with the multi-pin connectors that joined up two bits of radio kit in my Army days: whenever someone reported a duff radio, I'd turn up, blow on the connectors and - hey presto!
Worth remembering that it works on a key fob, though - I doubt I'd have thought of that!
the gbp350+ is very different from my 996 experience. I only had one key, which stopped working. I bought a new key head from the OPC (internals were gbp84.14, plastic head was 5.96) and he fitted the key shank from the little grey valet key.
He reprogrammed this new head, and the other non-working key for free.
The technician said it was only 15 minutes labour anyway.
He also gave me an old defunct fob (they obviously fail more than rarely) that had the bits in it that I needed to fix the non working key.
Result - 2 keys for gbp89.10, I even 'bought' a leather key fob that they forgot to charge me the 10 or so quid for.
Dropping these things can easily break circuit board tracks or fracture soldered joints. If the breath thing works then there probably is a bad joint in there, and a few minutes with a magnifying glass and soldering iron might fix this.
He reprogrammed this new head, and the other non-working key for free.
The technician said it was only 15 minutes labour anyway.
He also gave me an old defunct fob (they obviously fail more than rarely) that had the bits in it that I needed to fix the non working key.
Result - 2 keys for gbp89.10, I even 'bought' a leather key fob that they forgot to charge me the 10 or so quid for.
Dropping these things can easily break circuit board tracks or fracture soldered joints. If the breath thing works then there probably is a bad joint in there, and a few minutes with a magnifying glass and soldering iron might fix this.
Sounds like some of you have genuine problems with the fob, but I thought this worth mentioning:
The other day my '99 Boxster wouldn't lock with the fob. LED was OK, so battery fine. Used the key and left the car little bemused. Came back later and had to use the key again to get in.
One journey later, everything's fine again. What I think happened is this:
Removing the key from the ignition the first time I remember not hearing the usual 'clink' sound (ignition lock?), so the car thinks the key is still in the ignition and is programmed to not respond to the fob. An easy way to test this theory is to leave your key in the ignition and try to lock with the spare fob. I have yet to try this, but think it will prove true...
The other day my '99 Boxster wouldn't lock with the fob. LED was OK, so battery fine. Used the key and left the car little bemused. Came back later and had to use the key again to get in.
One journey later, everything's fine again. What I think happened is this:
Removing the key from the ignition the first time I remember not hearing the usual 'clink' sound (ignition lock?), so the car thinks the key is still in the ignition and is programmed to not respond to the fob. An easy way to test this theory is to leave your key in the ignition and try to lock with the spare fob. I have yet to try this, but think it will prove true...
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