Slow Engine Start - 997 C4S
Discussion
My 1st 997 it’s a gen1 C4S and I’m not sure if I have an issue or not.
When I start the car it’s not an immediate turn key and then engine starts, I would say it takes 2-3 seconds of turning over then it kicks it (it always does, no issues there either hot or cold) and it did this on the test drive in the Porsche dealership so I just assumed it was normal. Never had this on any of my other cars, where turning ignition to engine starting is pretty instantaneous (including a 987 Boxster S) on searching the net you get conflicting stories, some people say its normal and all 997’s do others saying there is a cable fix for it.
Any Ideas?
When I start the car it’s not an immediate turn key and then engine starts, I would say it takes 2-3 seconds of turning over then it kicks it (it always does, no issues there either hot or cold) and it did this on the test drive in the Porsche dealership so I just assumed it was normal. Never had this on any of my other cars, where turning ignition to engine starting is pretty instantaneous (including a 987 Boxster S) on searching the net you get conflicting stories, some people say its normal and all 997’s do others saying there is a cable fix for it.
Any Ideas?
Are you saying there is a physical delay between key turn and starter motor engagement or that as the starter engages the engine turns over slower than expected?
There is naturally a delay as the key is turned due to the immobiliser system, clutch pedal recognition check and digital signal transfer - it is only milliseconds, just not as quick as a conventional electric contact switch.
There have been a few instances of volt drop across the main battery cable between the Battery and Alternator/Starter, the quickest way to check it is run the car to operating temp, switch loads on (lights, HRW, Blower motor, heated seats etc) then check the voltage drop (pd / potential difference) between the +ve cable at the Battery and Alternator - the drop should be <0.3 volts max - I've seen faulty cables at >1.5volt (in short your Battery will receive Alternator charging voltage minus the drop - for instance 13.6v - 1.5v meaning your Battery will maintain its 12v but will never fully charge or recover and your starting performance will suffer).
HTH
There is naturally a delay as the key is turned due to the immobiliser system, clutch pedal recognition check and digital signal transfer - it is only milliseconds, just not as quick as a conventional electric contact switch.
There have been a few instances of volt drop across the main battery cable between the Battery and Alternator/Starter, the quickest way to check it is run the car to operating temp, switch loads on (lights, HRW, Blower motor, heated seats etc) then check the voltage drop (pd / potential difference) between the +ve cable at the Battery and Alternator - the drop should be <0.3 volts max - I've seen faulty cables at >1.5volt (in short your Battery will receive Alternator charging voltage minus the drop - for instance 13.6v - 1.5v meaning your Battery will maintain its 12v but will never fully charge or recover and your starting performance will suffer).
HTH
Not sure if this is the right technical term/description or not…. But I would describe as you turn the key the starter motor starts immediately but you then get 4 or 5 ticks and then the engine kicks into life with a lovely rumble…
As I mentioned there seems to be a lot of conflicting info out there on the net if this is normal or not?
cheers
As I mentioned there seems to be a lot of conflicting info out there on the net if this is normal or not?
cheers
I think I know what you are saying and my 997 c2s does the same thing - it seems to take the starter motor 2 or 3 turns before the mill sparks up (so to speak!). Funnily enough a friend actually commented on it at the weekend, saying it almost seemed to be struggling to start. Mine has always done it, and has always started, so I don't think it is a problem but more of a Porsche "feature" perhaps.....
andymin said:
mine used to do this until I had the starter cable replaced, corrosion on the crimped end fittings
ThisPope said:
There have been a few instances of volt drop across the main battery cable between the Battery and Alternator/Starter, the quickest way to check it is run the car to operating temp, switch loads on (lights, HRW, Blower motor, heated seats etc) then check the voltage drop (pd / potential difference) between the +ve cable at the Battery and Alternator - the drop should be <0.3 volts max - I've seen faulty cables at >1.5volt (in short your Battery will receive Alternator charging voltage minus the drop - for instance 13.6v - 1.5v meaning your Battery will maintain its 12v but will never fully charge or recover and your starting performance will suffer).
HTH
HTH
Edited by Pope on Monday 7th March 22:59
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