Very interesting if you have m96 or m97 engine
Discussion
Sine Metu said:
Isn't the simplest thing just to check your seal and replace if there are signs of wear? I'm assuming you can get brand new IMS's whenever you want or are they hard to get?
Last posts I read (which could now be out of date?) advise:Low temp thermostat
Additional radiator
New IMS bearing
Wonder if anything has changed?
It is bad to leave a car not being run for weeks on end and also bad to start it up in the garage for a while without driving it. Best take it for a 10+ mile run at least every 4 weeks in my view.
For preventative features to avoid or reduce bore scoring I would recommend our LTT (cannot comment on others supplying alternatives).
Better still the third radiator is good as long as it is combined with a control thermostat. We have the control thermostats and housings in stock now - housing plus thermostat for the third radiator £175.00 plus p&p and Vat. If you don't have a LTT in the standard engine position (or perhaps someone else's) we offer ours in addition for a combined package price including our LTT of £195 + p&p and Vat.
This will reduce the temperature in the critical part of the engine in all circumstances except when ambient conditions combine with driving style exceed the capacity of the whole three radiator system - which is extremely rare anyway.
Baz
For preventative features to avoid or reduce bore scoring I would recommend our LTT (cannot comment on others supplying alternatives).
Better still the third radiator is good as long as it is combined with a control thermostat. We have the control thermostats and housings in stock now - housing plus thermostat for the third radiator £175.00 plus p&p and Vat. If you don't have a LTT in the standard engine position (or perhaps someone else's) we offer ours in addition for a combined package price including our LTT of £195 + p&p and Vat.
This will reduce the temperature in the critical part of the engine in all circumstances except when ambient conditions combine with driving style exceed the capacity of the whole three radiator system - which is extremely rare anyway.
Baz
hartech said:
Better still the third radiator is good as long as it is combined with a control thermostat. We have the control thermostats and housings in stock now - housing plus thermostat for the third radiator £175.00 plus p&p and Vat. If you don't have a LTT in the standard engine position (or perhaps someone else's) we offer ours in addition for a combined package price including our LTT of £195 + p&p and Vat.
Hi Baz,At the end of last year you mentioned on here you were working on a new product to improve the operation of a third radiator - is this it? My car is standard, so to go all in would require the combined package you mention plus the third radiator? Would be really good to see more details on this if available, thanks.
As a new owner of a 2001 996 3.6 C2 on 85k and its original engine, this is interesting reading and I thank all the contributors.
Focusing simply on the IMS bearing alone (not bore scoring, cracking heads, oval cylinders, leaky RMS...) it would seem that:
1) the ones that fail early may (!) relate to how the bearing fits in its casting, and whether they marginally distort (amongst other factors) and then sit in their own grinding past. Hence they fail early at around 25k, or ones that fit as intended and don't distort can last up to 100k or more.
2) in my situation where the IMS was inspected at 82k and found to be in rude health it may be that it hasn't distorted in its housing or had other issues relating to premature wear/failure.
3) the next time the clutch is being done or other reason when the IMS is accessible, I should change the IMS for a replacement bearing (be 100k miles by then I would guess) and ensure it is one without side seals and the strongest design possible.
4) the above approach is "practically sensible based on the specialists at the sharp ends advice", as opposed to an alternative possible more kneejerk reaction of fitting a "wonder roller bearing", or various "direct oil fed replacement bearings" or simply refitting another OEM bearing with the side seals in place?
My car has been well cared for by knowledgeable owners that changed the oil regularly, warmed it up before a thrashing, never left it as a garage queen, and even fitted the lower temp thermostat. Therefore I am hoping that as the car has successfully done 14 years and 85k miles without grenading the IMS and wrecking the engine it is not irresponsible to wait until the next opportune service moment to change the bearing (even if it seems fine) to a stronger version with no side seals.
If my point "4" above is horribly wrong because I haven't understood a single thing written here correctly, don't be shy and please tell me!
Focusing simply on the IMS bearing alone (not bore scoring, cracking heads, oval cylinders, leaky RMS...) it would seem that:
1) the ones that fail early may (!) relate to how the bearing fits in its casting, and whether they marginally distort (amongst other factors) and then sit in their own grinding past. Hence they fail early at around 25k, or ones that fit as intended and don't distort can last up to 100k or more.
2) in my situation where the IMS was inspected at 82k and found to be in rude health it may be that it hasn't distorted in its housing or had other issues relating to premature wear/failure.
3) the next time the clutch is being done or other reason when the IMS is accessible, I should change the IMS for a replacement bearing (be 100k miles by then I would guess) and ensure it is one without side seals and the strongest design possible.
4) the above approach is "practically sensible based on the specialists at the sharp ends advice", as opposed to an alternative possible more kneejerk reaction of fitting a "wonder roller bearing", or various "direct oil fed replacement bearings" or simply refitting another OEM bearing with the side seals in place?
My car has been well cared for by knowledgeable owners that changed the oil regularly, warmed it up before a thrashing, never left it as a garage queen, and even fitted the lower temp thermostat. Therefore I am hoping that as the car has successfully done 14 years and 85k miles without grenading the IMS and wrecking the engine it is not irresponsible to wait until the next opportune service moment to change the bearing (even if it seems fine) to a stronger version with no side seals.
If my point "4" above is horribly wrong because I haven't understood a single thing written here correctly, don't be shy and please tell me!
Forum | Porsche General | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff