Why a later car?
Why a later car?
Author
Discussion

Pacman1972

Original Poster:

327 posts

286 months

Friday 17th June 2011
quotequote all
Everyone tells me I should buy as late a model as I can afford. Just wondered what the main reasons are.

Obviously know about the Speed6 problems, but I'm assuming if it's had a proper rebuild then that should no longer be an issue?

Are there any other niggles that were sorted on later cars?

What's the general consensus - 2003+, 2004+ Tuscan 2?

nrick

1,866 posts

187 months

Friday 17th June 2011
quotequote all
Hi

I don't really agree with that, there is no doubt that as the car aged there was significant development sometimes at the customers expense. It was not uncommon to have 2-3 rebuilds a year in the early days, but so much more is known now.

Cars need or will need (in no particular order)

A rebuild to latest spec (I would suggest Power/Str8six/RG as good being the most worthy)
Spacers
Decent suspension (Gaz Golds/protech/racing reds/Nitrons)
Bump steer mod(starting to think this is essential)
LCD screen
Heater controller mod
Chassis check

Most cars will have had or are going to have these mods, there was not that much difference between early cars and late cars, and value should be based on the mods above as it takes these cars from fantastic to mega fantastic.

There is quite of a lot of difference in terms of trim and colour.

Just my humble opinion.

Pacman1972

Original Poster:

327 posts

286 months

Friday 17th June 2011
quotequote all
Ok that makes sense to me. I shall be wary of dealers trying to get me to part with more cash than is necessary.

Appreciate the feedback!

nrick

1,866 posts

187 months

Friday 17th June 2011
quotequote all
discounting the S that demands a premium, it might be worth having a look at the unofficial tvr blog for a guide on prices and the value is in a good condition sorted car with the mods above. Or buy a car without the mods and do them yourself and discount.

The thing I missed was tyres, they need to be good (Pirelli/Toyo etc) and the right size. Again much more is understood about 18" spidered cars now.

mr sagman

1,735 posts

260 months

Friday 17th June 2011
quotequote all
I think the general consensus with most TVR's is to buy as late a car as possible.. As a lot of the problems will of been ironed out with later cars.. The S6 engines are considered to have got better from 04 onwards.. Although I know people with 01/02 cars without a rebuild, but I also know people with 05 cars that have needed a rebuild, A lot depends on how they have been treated from cold.. How they have been maintained and a bit of luck thrown in there as well.. My advice would be to buy on condition.. Try to find one with a rebuild (It will give you more peace of mind), Alternatively you could get a chepo one and pay for your own rebuild c/w 5 year warranty.
Decision decisions.

Pacman1972

Original Poster:

327 posts

286 months

Friday 17th June 2011
quotequote all
One thing is for sure - I need to get one biggrin


mr sagman

1,735 posts

260 months

Friday 17th June 2011
quotequote all
I took so long finishing my post that theres been a few since.. Just remember to proceed with caution, As you would with any high performance cars.. And do your homework, And you should end up a very happy bunny like most of us are.

truck71

2,328 posts

196 months

Friday 17th June 2011
quotequote all
nrick said:
Hi

I don't really agree with that, there is no doubt that as the car aged there was significant development sometimes at the customers expense. It was not uncommon to have 2-3 rebuilds a year in the early days, but so much more is known now.

Cars need or will need (in no particular order)

A rebuild to latest spec (I would suggest Power/Str8six/RG as good being the most worthy)
Spacers
Decent suspension (Gaz Golds/protech/racing reds/Nitrons)
Bump steer mod(starting to think this is essential)
LCD screen
Heater controller mod
Chassis check

Most cars will have had or are going to have these mods, there was not that much difference between early cars and late cars, and value should be based on the mods above as it takes these cars from fantastic to mega fantastic.

There is quite of a lot of difference in terms of trim and colour.

Just my humble opinion.
Or buy a mark 2 and you probably won't need most of the above- having said that mine will be having a set of racing reds but only due to the current ones starting to weep.

Allandwf

1,769 posts

219 months

Friday 17th June 2011
quotequote all
Or look for one with an engine warranty, there are a few out there now. Gives extra peace of mind.

Pacman1972

Original Poster:

327 posts

286 months

Friday 17th June 2011
quotequote all
Would everyone agree a sorted mk1 is as good as as mk2?

truck71

2,328 posts

196 months

Friday 17th June 2011
quotequote all
Probably becomes more a matter of taste, yes.

Pacman1972

Original Poster:

327 posts

286 months

Friday 17th June 2011
quotequote all
Pacman1972 said:
Would everyone agree a sorted mk1 is as good as as mk2?
To qualify a little further perhaps I should say... As mechanically sound as as mk2

truck71

2,328 posts

196 months

Friday 17th June 2011
quotequote all
Hi Pacman, your previous comment was equally valid- I was only suggesting that once a MK1 is sorted the difference is likely to be taste- this can never be wrong since one individuals preference will never be the same as everyone else's. Wasn't trying to be negative to a MK1 choice. Cheers

blueg33

45,278 posts

248 months

Friday 17th June 2011
quotequote all
A sorted Mk1 should be as good as if not better than a MK2. Engine rebuild is the biggie, and a late car is not necessarily safe from the need to rebuild. When I bought, I looked at late cars and early cars, and ended up with an early car with a TVRPower rebuild and 5 year warranty on the rebuild.

I do need to sort bump steer, and nrick currently has my heater unit for test/repair, but otherwise all is good.

I saw good and bad cars of all ages, so buy on condition and known history.

in addition to points listed above also check when the clutch was last replaced (life is circa 15-20k miles, check power steering for leaks.

Both Mk1's and Mk2's have issues with LCD elements to the dash so check that they work properly. A few mk 2's have traditional dial style dashes but these are rare.


Noisy

4,489 posts

301 months

Friday 17th June 2011
quotequote all
Again buying on condition but also finding cars that drive the nicest is important, I have driven some TVR's which just aren't as nice to drive as others, even when set with same geo settings etc. I don't know how really, but maybe down to the fact they are hand built with different tolerances.

Smooth Smith

542 posts

188 months

Saturday 18th June 2011
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What's the heater controller mod?

nrick

1,866 posts

187 months

Saturday 18th June 2011
quotequote all
The earth pin on the connector is too small and will burn out eventually. The mod is to open the case and solder a bigger cable on to the board directly then splice this into the loom thus avoiding the connector.

Pacman1972

Original Poster:

327 posts

286 months

Saturday 18th June 2011
quotequote all
nrick said:
Hi


A rebuild to latest spec (I would suggest Power/Str8six/RG as good being the most worthy)
Spacers
Decent suspension (Gaz Golds/protech/racing reds/Nitrons)
Bump steer mod(starting to think this is essential)
LCD screen
Heater controller mod
Chassis check
So worst cast scenario, what's kind of budget do I need for each of the above?

blueg33

45,278 posts

248 months

Saturday 18th June 2011
quotequote all
Pacman1972 said:
So worst cast scenario, what's kind of budget do I need for each of the above?
My guess is as follows: (assuming you use a TVR Indie to do the work)

A rebuild to latest spec (I would suggest Power/Str8six/RG) £7000
Spacers £28 (easy to fit yourself)
Decent suspension (Gaz Golds/protech/racing reds/Nitrons) £800
Bump steer mod(starting to think this is essential) £600
LCD screen £110
Heater controller mod £70
Chassis check £50

xTVR

180 posts

243 months

Saturday 18th June 2011
quotequote all
Is it OK to rebuild the head, without doing the bottom end?