Roof pulling off the latch.. how to avoid?

[MrChips]

So with an impending trackday coming up, my brain has saw fit to remember that the offside roof latch doesn't hold onto the roof that well at 130+

So.. a couple of quick questions!

- Is there any adjustment to move the bolt out even further? The cable is slack once the lever is pushed all the way and all I can see is adjustment to pull up the cable slack.
Does anyone know if the bolt actually has a nut on the end of it? I really don't want to start pulling bits of trim off unless there's a good chance I can make it better.

- When it came off last time, I had the roof and the rear screen in place, so I guess this was pressurising the cabin. Presumably running without the rear window would help this? (Basing this on needing to run in the rain hence the roof would be on!)

Cheers
Dave

[nrick]

Have you got the centre latch as well?



Cable show adjustment on both ends, picture from Racing Green. Not done the job myself but I am sure I found something on the search about replacement and adjustment.

[MrChips]

Cheers! I found a fair bit about adjusting the cable slack but not about the end with the bolt on. Gonna have another look tomorrow, but it's good to know there should be some adjustment.

Hopefully I wont have to pull the trim off the roll hoop to get to it!

[Konrod]

I don't quite the same problem, but the cable on the drivers side seems to "snag" as you pull it and the adjustment is at its max.

How do you access the cable? I started to try and get access, but it looks complicated as there is an inner GRP shell and it appears that you have to remove all of the hoop trim - my concern is getting it all back looking good.

Did I miss something? (2000 Mk1, no high level brake light)

Cheers

J

[x 7usc]

HI Dave. just a thought having just looked at mine, if you undo all the boot end (ie giving you a loose cable end in the boot) see if you can rotate the whole cable as TVR may have made both adjuster nuts on the roof end "captive" without fully tightening, maybe (slim chance but never know). those type of cables as you know are pretty tough so if that is the case then it may respond to turning, worth a try

Edited by x 7usc on Thursday 14th July 16:59

[MrChips]

x 7usc said:

HI Dave. just a thought having just looked at mine, if you undo all the boot end (ie giving you a loose cable end in the boot) see if you can rotate the whole cable as TVR may have made both adjuster nuts on the roof end "captive" without fully tightening, maybe (slim chance but never know). those type of cables as you know are pretty tough so if that is the case then it may respond to turning, worth a try

That's not actually a bad plan Mark!

I had a quick look earlier and there's definitely no easy way to access the nut that's in the roll-hoop. Just need to cut down a spanner to get easier access to the 2 nuts holding the cable in the boot end.

Hopefully can update this tomorrow with something more successful!

[x 7usc]

how did you get on Dave

[Cats]

I guess that moving/adjusting the receptors on the roof panel doesn't help. Did this on mine and it really pulls the roof in tight and the levers in the boot feel tighter now.

[so called]

I used to have this probelem. I'd hit about 85mph on the German Auto bahn and the near side of the roof would come free.
The advise I got on here was to be more carefull when fitting the roof.
I found that I had got into a routine that always ensured the off side pin was 'home' good and proper and the near side was kind of secondary.
Changed my fitting routine and paid more attention on the near side pin and the the problem stopped:

I also gave it a good cleaning as some crud had built up on both pins.

[MrChips]

Almost forgot to update this

The cable housing in the boot is held on by 2 nuts one either side of a grp bracket, and whoever designed this bracket is a cock. Why put the bracket so that all access is restricted by the body mould! Nothing that a cut down set of spanners wouldn't fix but I didn't have mine available.
So i Spent a good hr undoing one of the nuts and then tightening the cables. This did help by removing the slack so the lever has a much more positive action. You could take the cable off the bracket/lever and try Marks suggestion but I could imagine it being a stressful job to hook it all back up again!

I ended up cable tying the lever down, just in case, and seeing as its only at v.high speed this would probably suffice!

Will have a look at the roof panel again and see if there's any possibilities there, although it's now stable enough for most trackdays etc. Hoping to go to Vmax this year which'll be the ultimate test!!