A little info please
Discussion
Im looking at buying a late 02 Tuscan thats not been run much over the last few years,battery is totally flat how do i get in? The owner knows there is a way but cant remember specifically,given its time not doing much id like to give it an oil change once run up and warmed through,what do you recomend oil wise? Is it an easy enough job? Any good parts suppliers for the above and order a service key to get under the hood too? Anything specific i should look or listen for enginewise? Ive read all the stories of low mileage rebuilds etc but seem unclear what actually fails on them?
As your a newbie try this opition.
Anderson conector under passeger footwell, look under car, has an oblong plastic cover, remove this and expose the conector This is the place to conect jump leads, if you have a booster or charger you can conect to the battery here. As the owner may have no anderson type jump leads you can still conect with small croc clips. From left to right ( positive - negative ) this should give enough power to open a window.
You will still need the key fob active so may be worth changing the battery in the key fob as well, likley car will be locked and alarmed.
Anderson conector under passeger footwell, look under car, has an oblong plastic cover, remove this and expose the conector This is the place to conect jump leads, if you have a booster or charger you can conect to the battery here. As the owner may have no anderson type jump leads you can still conect with small croc clips. From left to right ( positive - negative ) this should give enough power to open a window.
You will still need the key fob active so may be worth changing the battery in the key fob as well, likley car will be locked and alarmed.
Thanks for the info,hes a friend and mentioned he didnt have the key for the bonnet?? Im just trying to get things arranged beforehand so i can check all the levels and get in to crank it over with ignition coil packs disconnected etc before going to fire it up,its over a year since it was run,will i be able to get acssess to everything ok without a service key? Any pointers on other issues to check on the car prior to agreeing a deal
Thanks Tony,i had already been on there as a link from here but it doesnt really give any specifics away as to what actually fails on engines just mention of expensive rebuilds,the car in question has only done 20k and a later model so im thinking all will be well but obviously want to protect myself as much as possible and check all is tip top,the cars had a clutch a few years ago but only a few hundred miles done since so that should be fine
Only rebuilds from a few years ago can be taken as bankers, we are still learning much about these engines but I think we are almost there.
Finger Followers from the factory are marginal, and there are 3 or 4 different choices now.
reducing the valve spring pressure helps
The rods are marginal on the std engine but seem to hold together
The camshafts were sintered on early cars, but later cars and rebuilds should have chilled iron shafts.
valve guides were marginal but are now better
Valves themselves had a tendency to stretch
Throttle bodies were not bushed on early cars and wear at 25-30k
airbox's don't seal well and tend to crack
oil pumps wear (idle hot should be 15psi+, cold 50psi at 900 rpm)
Ignition coils (Vauxhall Omega V6) tend to go regularly, and plugs and leads need a look every now and then.
Rads can go but can be recored.
Throttle cables go, but there is a new cable and bracket
Valve clearances need checking every 12k
Half time bearing can wear (Pig to do)
good warm ups help
good servicing and checking oil level helps
Brakes can be expensive to overhaul so check the pad thickness and condition.
Car will also need
Decent tyres
Aftermarket suspension
spacers on the front wheels if it is using 18"spiders
Geo setup
General rules apply, it it smokes, has poor oil pressure, leaks or doesn't run smooth then you know why.
PS a car that has been sat idle for a while will be a little problematic at first, lots of teething problems, but the more you use it the better it gets.
Best thing is to ask lots of questions, there are cars doing 40k with no rebuild but some had 3 in a year.
Finger Followers from the factory are marginal, and there are 3 or 4 different choices now.
reducing the valve spring pressure helps
The rods are marginal on the std engine but seem to hold together
The camshafts were sintered on early cars, but later cars and rebuilds should have chilled iron shafts.
valve guides were marginal but are now better
Valves themselves had a tendency to stretch
Throttle bodies were not bushed on early cars and wear at 25-30k
airbox's don't seal well and tend to crack
oil pumps wear (idle hot should be 15psi+, cold 50psi at 900 rpm)
Ignition coils (Vauxhall Omega V6) tend to go regularly, and plugs and leads need a look every now and then.
Rads can go but can be recored.
Throttle cables go, but there is a new cable and bracket
Valve clearances need checking every 12k
Half time bearing can wear (Pig to do)
good warm ups help
good servicing and checking oil level helps
Brakes can be expensive to overhaul so check the pad thickness and condition.
Car will also need
Decent tyres
Aftermarket suspension
spacers on the front wheels if it is using 18"spiders
Geo setup
General rules apply, it it smokes, has poor oil pressure, leaks or doesn't run smooth then you know why.
PS a car that has been sat idle for a while will be a little problematic at first, lots of teething problems, but the more you use it the better it gets.
Best thing is to ask lots of questions, there are cars doing 40k with no rebuild but some had 3 in a year.
Thankyou very muchly nrick,i called a specialist today regarding service items etc and gained some of the above info but thankyou very much for all that,i feel well armed now and reasonably confident with it being a later model anyway,i drove the car 4 years ago and all was fine then so ive no doubt it will be now but i wasnt buying it 4 years ago haha i was also recommended to use 5-40 competition oil? I know there quick in a straight line but it wont be a keeper as i prefer my RS4 as an allround everday fast car,im sure looking forward to a few runs out in it though in the interest of making sure its all tip top of course haha
Good info above from nrick!
Unless you're getting this cheap I'd get it checked out first by a specialist. I wouldn't class an 02 car a later model & with that mileage, there's every possibility that a rebuild may be due at some point if it's not been looked after. It's not a definite though.
The warm up procedure is vital with the S6 engine. Do you how your friend has driven it from cold?
Unless you're getting this cheap I'd get it checked out first by a specialist. I wouldn't class an 02 car a later model & with that mileage, there's every possibility that a rebuild may be due at some point if it's not been looked after. It's not a definite though.
The warm up procedure is vital with the S6 engine. Do you how your friend has driven it from cold?
He hasnt driven it much at all in 5 years of ownership,so i suppose it would be more the previous owner,it was a main dealer car so would expect thoroughly checked over prior to sale and warranty,what would you guys call cheap for 52 plate in chameleon purple 20k cream leather greeny carpets? pm if you prefer if they do that on here?
Average Mk1 price is £17200 , the mileage is good but the rebuilt is bad (-4k), Gaz gold shocks (-1k), 12k service (-£500), tyres ( -£500) , paint is good and bad (If paint is needed then it will be expensive £500/l)
£12k +/- 2k, the market is buoyant and cars are getting more expensive. Cat D are now hitting these values and most cars are in the 14-16k bracket unless they have no history, no rebuild or problems.
£12k +/- 2k, the market is buoyant and cars are getting more expensive. Cat D are now hitting these values and most cars are in the 14-16k bracket unless they have no history, no rebuild or problems.
Fantastic colour, the paint is still available but if it needs a respray the paint can be expensive. There is a guy on here called potatomuncher (Colin), he works for Surface and Design, sprayed most of the Tcars and is a top bloke, might be worth talking to him. What is the paint like?
Detailed it is absolutely stunning.....
Detailed it is absolutely stunning.....
I detailed the paint 4 years ago and it was good,it was too dirty to really inspect when i viewed it a few days ago and its on my list to give it a good wash and inspection before talking money,it looked awesome when i did it a few years ago,there were no obvious scuffs i could see,couple of small ones on the a pillar of the door maybe from a poor fit or clumsy roof removal?
Just to add very basics.
The engine normally runs at cold start up about 600 revs and increases to 900 slowly as it warms.
Kind of oposite to 'normal(ordinary)' cars.
Also if the throttle pedal sticks and holds the revs high, this is caused by a bit of corrosion on the throttle pivot shaft bushes. WD40 and use will slowly free it again.
My first TUscan had this. A bit unnearving having to try to huck to pedal with my foot to lift it to slow down.
The engine normally runs at cold start up about 600 revs and increases to 900 slowly as it warms.
Kind of oposite to 'normal(ordinary)' cars.
Also if the throttle pedal sticks and holds the revs high, this is caused by a bit of corrosion on the throttle pivot shaft bushes. WD40 and use will slowly free it again.
My first TUscan had this. A bit unnearving having to try to huck to pedal with my foot to lift it to slow down.
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