Window LED Flashing while driving
Discussion
Hi Everyone
just been for a quick blast, and noticed that my passenger window switch LED was flashing. Window works fine, closes opens etc. Driver side was steady ON. Got back, parked up and Passenger LED had stopped flashing, went to drive into the garage and it started to flash again.
Any ideas anyone
TIA
Paul
just been for a quick blast, and noticed that my passenger window switch LED was flashing. Window works fine, closes opens etc. Driver side was steady ON. Got back, parked up and Passenger LED had stopped flashing, went to drive into the garage and it started to flash again.
Any ideas anyone
TIA
Paul
If my memory is correct, both of mine flash when moving to indicate that the door is locked, the very early Tuscan's had the door release button integrated into the window switch and some people were knocking them with their knees whilst driving, (the TVR fix was to move the door switches to beside the stereo). When parked the lights are solid indicating that I can now open the doors
(mine is an early Tuscan with door buttons by the radio)I only found this out because it was dark last night, and saw the passenger side flashing, but cant work out why the drivers side is solid on while driving. As soon as i stopped driving, passenger side went solid. So which one is at fault
Paulgooner said:
(mine is an early Tuscan with door buttons by the radio)I only found this out because it was dark last night, and saw the passenger side flashing, but cant work out why the drivers side is solid on while driving. As soon as i stopped driving, passenger side went solid. So which one is at fault
I would say that the drivers side is not correct, are you able to open the doors whilst on the move (very slow speed and also where it would not hit anything if they do open)? It might give a better indication to which one is faulty.Paulgooner said:
Update on those window LEDs, tried opening doors whilst moving and nothing, which is good. Not swapped ECUs over yet as not really sure where they are, Anyone?!!
The ECU's are under the centre console in front of the gearstick. To access this you need to remove the console. Two screws either side of the console by your knees and one behind the rear console vent. Very easy!S6 Devil said:
Paulgooner said:
Update on those window LEDs, tried opening doors whilst moving and nothing, which is good. Not swapped ECUs over yet as not really sure where they are, Anyone?!!
The ECU's are under the centre console in front of the gearstick. To access this you need to remove the console. Two screws either side of the console by your knees and one behind the rear console vent. Very easy!This is a total guess, but it might be the electronics (indicated by flashing LED) still trying to operate the window lift to the closed position. I believe I'm right in saying that the 'feedback' to the ecu's is via the small pcb on the window lift motor. This - as I understand, 'counts' the motor rotations whilst opening door/lowering window....so that the ecu 'knows' how much to lift the window by to close.
Therefore, I wonder if you need to clean/renew the pcb on the window lift mechanism/motor. This is as I understand the window function - others may be along to correct my logic later!!
Nick
mine do it too !!
tbh i looked into my car at night whilst opening the garage door and there was
green hue from pod
blue led from ac button
flashing green leds from windows
blue hue from cd player
green leds from fans and stuff
red led on heater...
and it looked the nuts !!
like spaceship nuts !! i kinda like it. its as nuts as the outside !!
tbh i looked into my car at night whilst opening the garage door and there was
green hue from pod
blue led from ac button
flashing green leds from windows
blue hue from cd player
green leds from fans and stuff
red led on heater...
and it looked the nuts !!
like spaceship nuts !! i kinda like it. its as nuts as the outside !!
Ok, just swapped over ecu's and the flashing LED from passenger side moves to the drivers side. So maybe I have an ECU fault, but, when I operate the alarm the driver side window winds up and not the passenger, despite whatever ecu is fitted. During looking I noticed on a connector block (which if i disconnect I can take the whole centre consul out), has 2 wires cut. 1 wire appears to have been cut on purpose, the other an orange with white stripe seems like it may have just snapped. Could this be the winding up problem. I didn't want to start shorting it out if it can cause a problem. I will try and upload a picture later
Lastly where can i get the ECU looked and possibly repaired.
the 2 wires arrowed appear to have just snapped, not a good photo but can give you an idea
Lastly where can i get the ECU looked and possibly repaired.
the 2 wires arrowed appear to have just snapped, not a good photo but can give you an idea
Edited by Paulgooner on Sunday 15th January 17:51
OK think i may have sorted problem, with the help of PSelectronic solutions, it seems I may have 2 different ECUs fitted, an early type and a revised type that was modified to stop the LED flashing (as it was a bit annoying), so, neither are faulty just different. The 2 cut wires were due to the the door button mod. I still have an intermittent fault with the passenger window not winding up when I set the alarm, it may be the alarm is not seeing that the door is shut which means it could be within the lock mechanism. Any body know how easy it is to check this.
take off the silver plate that surrounds the lock on the pillar. In there you'll see the little microswitch that tlls the electronics that the door is shut.
With the door open, you can push the switch with a screwdriver, thus simulating the door being closed. Se if the window will win all the way up.
Those microswitches fail. They're v cheap.
Andy
With the door open, you can push the switch with a screwdriver, thus simulating the door being closed. Se if the window will win all the way up.
Those microswitches fail. They're v cheap.
Andy
^^ The microswitches that Andy refers to "can" suffer from the 'blade' that operates the switch itself getting tired and either looses the bend so that it doesn't 'make' when the door is closed/latch mechanism operates, or it becomes misaligned so that it is not protruding into the latch mechanism properly.
Also - trace the wires from the microswitch down the B post behind the trim panel, and you'll find a 2-pin connector - worth giving the internals a spray with contact cleaner.
Nick
Also - trace the wires from the microswitch down the B post behind the trim panel, and you'll find a 2-pin connector - worth giving the internals a spray with contact cleaner.
Nick
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