Heater fan failed
Discussion
The heater control box is under the carpet on the passenger side under the dash. Check that the connector is ok, it normally burns through. It will probably need refurbishing, but might be worth checking the fuses. The pins on the box will look discoloured and you should be able to see that it has been getting hot.
HTH
HTH
Hi
Could be a loose connection on the switch, but you might need to try another controller, anyone close to you? Haven't checked where you are?
On the fault code, they randomly do it. When you turn on the ignition the dials sweep (fuel and water temp), when it reaches the end of the travel it operates a switch to tell it where it is. If it doesn't hit the switch or there is a problem it flags up the fault code. Nothing to do with the heater controller. Has the battery got flat or low? Most do it at some stage, normally lack of use.
The clock sets are bespoke and quite complicated for what they do (but unique and very nice). Cath can refurb if it keeps on doing it.
Could be a loose connection on the switch, but you might need to try another controller, anyone close to you? Haven't checked where you are?
On the fault code, they randomly do it. When you turn on the ignition the dials sweep (fuel and water temp), when it reaches the end of the travel it operates a switch to tell it where it is. If it doesn't hit the switch or there is a problem it flags up the fault code. Nothing to do with the heater controller. Has the battery got flat or low? Most do it at some stage, normally lack of use.
The clock sets are bespoke and quite complicated for what they do (but unique and very nice). Cath can refurb if it keeps on doing it.
The heater blower motor does sometimes fail.
If your convinced that the heater ecu is OK, then I'd start by doing the obvious - - check the fuse.
You can test for motor continuity by putting a meter on pin 12 (+ve and black/yellow wire) and pin 16 or 21 (-ve and solid black wire) on the motor side of the multi-pin connector....like wise if you put a 12V supply on these pins the motor should spin....but be careful applying power to the pins.
The motor is a b**ch to get at. You have to remove the battery and the cold side exchanger (if you have a/c). The cold exchanger has enough 'give' in the pipework to be just moved to one side. The motor is in the inner wing void below the cold matrix.
The cover at the side of the battery compartment is just siliconed in place. It may be that the motor has got damp through road water entering through this cover. There is a clear plastic pipe which drains the motor compartment...this can block, preventing drainage, and the motor gets wet and stops. That's what happened to mine. I cleared the drain tube by back rodding it with a net curtain wire. A good spray with electrical restorer and re-sealing the (batt. comp't.) cover had my motor back up and running fine.
Nick
If your convinced that the heater ecu is OK, then I'd start by doing the obvious - - check the fuse.
You can test for motor continuity by putting a meter on pin 12 (+ve and black/yellow wire) and pin 16 or 21 (-ve and solid black wire) on the motor side of the multi-pin connector....like wise if you put a 12V supply on these pins the motor should spin....but be careful applying power to the pins.
The motor is a b**ch to get at. You have to remove the battery and the cold side exchanger (if you have a/c). The cold exchanger has enough 'give' in the pipework to be just moved to one side. The motor is in the inner wing void below the cold matrix.
The cover at the side of the battery compartment is just siliconed in place. It may be that the motor has got damp through road water entering through this cover. There is a clear plastic pipe which drains the motor compartment...this can block, preventing drainage, and the motor gets wet and stops. That's what happened to mine. I cleared the drain tube by back rodding it with a net curtain wire. A good spray with electrical restorer and re-sealing the (batt. comp't.) cover had my motor back up and running fine.
Nick
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