Fitting Shocks Yourself - any hints / tips?
Discussion
A couple of months ago I replaced the coilovers on my other car - and it was a nightmare!!! In short, I vowed never to go near the suspension of a car ever again. Took over a week for the aches and pains to leave my body 
However, I'm shortly going to be receiving some replacement shocks for the Tuscan, and the more I look into what's involved with swapping them over, the more I'm inclined to give it a go myself (I'll obviously get the geo done properly once fitted), as it really doesn't seem all that hard...
(I'm also hoping it may be a form of therapy to help me get over my last awful experience
)
I do realise the importance of not messing around with something as important as the suspension, so let me know if you genuinely think it's a bad move on my behalf and I will heed your advice and leave it to the pros.
I've just got a couple of preliminary questions for anyone in the know:
1. Will I need to use spring compressors at any point?
(On my other car, I found that the spring needed compressing in order for the shock to squeeze into place, which was made super difficult by the lack of space around where the shock lived - *shuddering* as I relive those moments again)
2. Are there any guides out there, or is it really a matter of unbolting the shock at either end, pulling it off and replacing?
3. Any other advice?
Thanks everyone
However, I'm shortly going to be receiving some replacement shocks for the Tuscan, and the more I look into what's involved with swapping them over, the more I'm inclined to give it a go myself (I'll obviously get the geo done properly once fitted), as it really doesn't seem all that hard...
(I'm also hoping it may be a form of therapy to help me get over my last awful experience
)I do realise the importance of not messing around with something as important as the suspension, so let me know if you genuinely think it's a bad move on my behalf and I will heed your advice and leave it to the pros.
I've just got a couple of preliminary questions for anyone in the know:
1. Will I need to use spring compressors at any point?
(On my other car, I found that the spring needed compressing in order for the shock to squeeze into place, which was made super difficult by the lack of space around where the shock lived - *shuddering* as I relive those moments again)
2. Are there any guides out there, or is it really a matter of unbolting the shock at either end, pulling it off and replacing?
3. Any other advice?
Thanks everyone
I made a plate to strip mine down. The plate just sits over one end of the suspension assembly and a standard spring compressor (with only using one hook) goes either side. Once in place I just get a socket on the nuts and wind up to compress everything enough to take out the restraining cup.
It's easy and safe. I did both rears, and from jacking up to finishing took an hour, all fingers intact and no was blood lost.
I also made a tappered rod to help pull the assembly into lace when putting it back together, a screw driver would do a similar job.
It's easy and safe. I did both rears, and from jacking up to finishing took an hour, all fingers intact and no was blood lost.
I also made a tappered rod to help pull the assembly into lace when putting it back together, a screw driver would do a similar job.
Nice work! Fat chance me making something like that though
So you used that for removing the spring? You don't need it for removing the shock from the car, do you? Or is the shock under load whilst connected and would spring out when released from the chassis if the spring is left uncompressed?
So you used that for removing the spring? You don't need it for removing the shock from the car, do you? Or is the shock under load whilst connected and would spring out when released from the chassis if the spring is left uncompressed?
Units are self contained, so you only need the spring compressors for changing ride height or stripping the spring from the unit.
I did all mine myself and besides a few bruised knuckles and a bit of swearing it was ok. Matt did his the other day as well. I would change all the bolts for a Steve Heath kit to tidy it up, and order some replacement thrust washers if you wanted to change them,
HTH
Neill
I did all mine myself and besides a few bruised knuckles and a bit of swearing it was ok. Matt did his the other day as well. I would change all the bolts for a Steve Heath kit to tidy it up, and order some replacement thrust washers if you wanted to change them,
HTH
Neill
https://shengltd.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPat...
Not connected with Steve Heath in any way mods, just a customer!
Not connected with Steve Heath in any way mods, just a customer!
The other tip I got from Jason @ STR8six, was to put about a 1/2 to 1" on the bottom platform with the adjusters....so that you can get the jack out after you've fitted them! In any event, the springs should not be completely relaxed with the suspension on full droop
Do one corner at a time, measure the ride height at a datum on the chassis/outriggers to a flat surface/garage floor and adjust to this figure on completion. I didn't need compressors to do this, the 'C' spenners provided with the new units were adequate to alter the ride ht./bottom platform in-situ. New bolts make sense, but worth just putting on new nyloc nuts at least.
Nick
Do one corner at a time, measure the ride height at a datum on the chassis/outriggers to a flat surface/garage floor and adjust to this figure on completion. I didn't need compressors to do this, the 'C' spenners provided with the new units were adequate to alter the ride ht./bottom platform in-situ. New bolts make sense, but worth just putting on new nyloc nuts at least.
Nick
Be aware that the Steve Heath bolt kit doesn't contain a 3 3/4" bolt for the front shocks. It has a 4" and a 3 1/2 ". When used on the bottom mount the 4 "is too long and fouls the drag strut, the 3 1/2 has to be torqued up significantly more for the bolt threads to extend into the nylon area of the nyloc.
Only done fronts on mine so far but lift the front of the car so both wheels in droop if you lift one side the anti roll bar works against you and you cannot get the shock assembly out. The bolts are easier to remove if you compress the spring on the old units but wil come out without. Will need new units compressing when refitting to get all the spacers and O rings on easily. When I do the rears going to compress springs and try large tyraps to hold in position then cut off when in situ. DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK THEY BLOODY HURT IF YOU CATCH YOUR FINGER.
Ian
Ian
kevin63 said:
Leave plenty of time to do the job. Working on cars does not always go to plan, never mind on a TVR, rushing is not safe and doesn't always get the job done correctly.
Have some grease handy for re-assembly.
Thanks. Fully aware things don't always go to plan - i've found this out on several occasions! It's almost comical the situations I find myself in after attempting what is apparently an easy job Have some grease handy for re-assembly.
(although I'm highly confident at changing these dampers over)
330p4 said:
Only done fronts on mine so far but lift the front of the car so both wheels in droop if you lift one side the anti roll bar works against you and you cannot get the shock assembly out. The bolts are easier to remove if you compress the spring on the old units but wil come out without. Will need new units compressing when refitting to get all the spacers and O rings on easily. When I do the rears going to compress springs and try large tyraps to hold in position then cut off when in situ. DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK THEY BLOODY HURT IF YOU CATCH YOUR FINGER.
Ian
Thanks for the tips. Probably wouldn't have raised both sides at the same time,Ian
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