Window not dropping
Discussion
More Steam said:
You could try swapping the window ecu's. If the problem moves to the other door, then you know what the problem is. It could also be the encoder. You could do the same with them although it's a bigger job.
Ta for that.When it stops efin raining i will check it out. Next question is where are the window ecu's located.(if that not an obvious questionEdited by More Steam on Saturday 8th February 10:51
)
Marco1970 said:
its worth checking the micro-switch behind the chrome shut plates around the door catch. Sometimes the switch moves a little and doesn't contact when the door open/shuts hence the window does not drop to allow the door to open.
Thanks Marco.I'll do that first.Sounds a tad easier than removing the centre console which will be my next area to check.Dave
Dave - copy of post to the heater thread!!
Forgot to comment on your driver's door window - Doh!
My suggestion to cure this is: Remove door card (2 or 3 c/sunk allen screws in bottom of pocket) - and lift door card out. Remove vapour barrier - sheet rubber glued to inner structure of door.
You now need to close door-lock using a screwdriver which causes window to lift to closed position.
Looking at the top of the widow lift motor, you'll see a small PCB held onto the motor with a small phillips head machine screw. There a 3 wires coming from the PCB to a plug - you need to un-plug here!
You should now have a small PCB (about 15mm x 35mm) that can lift off the gearbox of the window lift motor.
You can either dry the PCB out using a hair dryer or leave it in the airing cupboard overnight...bottom line is to ensure its totally DRY. Mine had been clear siliconed, but still suffered water ingress.
Re-assemble - reverse of above, and you should have normal operation. On my pass. side I peeled off the silicone and once dried out, as above, re-assembled and put a good coating of Vaseline on.
If the problem persists, the PCB has suffered damage and you'll need to buy a new one. They are about £40 + VAT from usual parts people (called window encoders).
I'm sure some folks on here will say to check the window ECU's (under centre console behind ashtray), but my feeling is that the window is trying to drop to a 'door open' position.....it doesn't know where that is. The encoder is just an electronic counter, measuring how far the window "should" drop for a door open command.....Phew
AS MARCO advises - check also the micro-switch under the s/s cover over lock. Spray switch and 'tweak' small blade with long nose pliers to ensure switch is actuated when lock closed.
Nick
Forgot to comment on your driver's door window - Doh!
My suggestion to cure this is: Remove door card (2 or 3 c/sunk allen screws in bottom of pocket) - and lift door card out. Remove vapour barrier - sheet rubber glued to inner structure of door.
You now need to close door-lock using a screwdriver which causes window to lift to closed position.
Looking at the top of the widow lift motor, you'll see a small PCB held onto the motor with a small phillips head machine screw. There a 3 wires coming from the PCB to a plug - you need to un-plug here!
You should now have a small PCB (about 15mm x 35mm) that can lift off the gearbox of the window lift motor.
You can either dry the PCB out using a hair dryer or leave it in the airing cupboard overnight...bottom line is to ensure its totally DRY. Mine had been clear siliconed, but still suffered water ingress.
Re-assemble - reverse of above, and you should have normal operation. On my pass. side I peeled off the silicone and once dried out, as above, re-assembled and put a good coating of Vaseline on.
If the problem persists, the PCB has suffered damage and you'll need to buy a new one. They are about £40 + VAT from usual parts people (called window encoders).
I'm sure some folks on here will say to check the window ECU's (under centre console behind ashtray), but my feeling is that the window is trying to drop to a 'door open' position.....it doesn't know where that is. The encoder is just an electronic counter, measuring how far the window "should" drop for a door open command.....Phew
AS MARCO advises - check also the micro-switch under the s/s cover over lock. Spray switch and 'tweak' small blade with long nose pliers to ensure switch is actuated when lock closed.
Nick
nawarne said:
Dave - copy of post to the heater thread!!
Forgot to comment on your driver's door window - Doh!
My suggestion to cure this is: Remove door card (2 or 3 c/sunk allen screws in bottom of pocket) - and lift door card out. Remove vapour barrier - sheet rubber glued to inner structure of door.
You now need to close door-lock using a screwdriver which causes window to lift to closed position.
Looking at the top of the widow lift motor, you'll see a small PCB held onto the motor with a small phillips head machine screw. There a 3 wires coming from the PCB to a plug - you need to un-plug here!
You should now have a small PCB (about 15mm x 35mm) that can lift off the gearbox of the window lift motor.
You can either dry the PCB out using a hair dryer or leave it in the airing cupboard overnight...bottom line is to ensure its totally DRY. Mine had been clear siliconed, but still suffered water ingress.
Re-assemble - reverse of above, and you should have normal operation. On my pass. side I peeled off the silicone and once dried out, as above, re-assembled and put a good coating of Vaseline on.
If the problem persists, the PCB has suffered damage and you'll need to buy a new one. They are about £40 + VAT from usual parts people (called window encoders).
I'm sure some folks on here will say to check the window ECU's (under centre console behind ashtray), but my feeling is that the window is trying to drop to a 'door open' position.....it doesn't know where that is. The encoder is just an electronic counter, measuring how far the window "should" drop for a door open command.....Phew
AS MARCO advises - check also the micro-switch under the s/s cover over lock. Spray switch and 'tweak' small blade with long nose pliers to ensure switch is actuated when lock closed.
Nick
Hi Nick. That sounds like something i can have a go at. I'll let you know how i get on after the weekend.You should write a book on these niggles.You would sell lots of copies.Forgot to comment on your driver's door window - Doh!
My suggestion to cure this is: Remove door card (2 or 3 c/sunk allen screws in bottom of pocket) - and lift door card out. Remove vapour barrier - sheet rubber glued to inner structure of door.
You now need to close door-lock using a screwdriver which causes window to lift to closed position.
Looking at the top of the widow lift motor, you'll see a small PCB held onto the motor with a small phillips head machine screw. There a 3 wires coming from the PCB to a plug - you need to un-plug here!
You should now have a small PCB (about 15mm x 35mm) that can lift off the gearbox of the window lift motor.
You can either dry the PCB out using a hair dryer or leave it in the airing cupboard overnight...bottom line is to ensure its totally DRY. Mine had been clear siliconed, but still suffered water ingress.
Re-assemble - reverse of above, and you should have normal operation. On my pass. side I peeled off the silicone and once dried out, as above, re-assembled and put a good coating of Vaseline on.
If the problem persists, the PCB has suffered damage and you'll need to buy a new one. They are about £40 + VAT from usual parts people (called window encoders).
I'm sure some folks on here will say to check the window ECU's (under centre console behind ashtray), but my feeling is that the window is trying to drop to a 'door open' position.....it doesn't know where that is. The encoder is just an electronic counter, measuring how far the window "should" drop for a door open command.....Phew
AS MARCO advises - check also the micro-switch under the s/s cover over lock. Spray switch and 'tweak' small blade with long nose pliers to ensure switch is actuated when lock closed.
Nick
Thanks again..Dave
Hi all,
Similar problem, my window drops and door opens but when I get out and shut the door the window does not go back up.
Also when parked I return to the car and sometimes the window has opened.
Its the passenger side that does not go back up when I you shut the door but it's the drivers side that goes down when parked.
Is this a problem with the window ECU, Window Encoder or Micro switch? Which is the most likely for me to tackle first?
Cheers.
Similar problem, my window drops and door opens but when I get out and shut the door the window does not go back up.
Also when parked I return to the car and sometimes the window has opened.
Its the passenger side that does not go back up when I you shut the door but it's the drivers side that goes down when parked.
Is this a problem with the window ECU, Window Encoder or Micro switch? Which is the most likely for me to tackle first?
Cheers.
Edited by arbydb7 on Friday 21st February 10:51
Edited by arbydb7 on Friday 21st February 10:51
arbydb7 said:
Hi all,
Similar problem, my window drops and door opens but when I get out and shut the door the window does not go back up.
Also when parked I return to the car and sometimes the window has opened.
Its the passenger side that does not go back up when I you shut the door but it's the drivers side that goes down when parked.
Is this a problem with the window ECU, Window Encoder or Micro switch? Which is the most likely for me to tackle first?
Cheers.
Richard,Similar problem, my window drops and door opens but when I get out and shut the door the window does not go back up.
Also when parked I return to the car and sometimes the window has opened.
Its the passenger side that does not go back up when I you shut the door but it's the drivers side that goes down when parked.
Is this a problem with the window ECU, Window Encoder or Micro switch? Which is the most likely for me to tackle first?
Cheers.
Edited by arbydb7 on Friday 21st February 10:51
Edited by arbydb7 on Friday 21st February 10:51
In order of 'most likely' culprit I'd do this:
1) Window encoder for pass' side. Door micro switch for drivers side.
2) Door lock micro switches.
Nick
Problems diagnosed :-
Passenger door window not going up after shutting door was the door lock micro switch sensor no working.
Driver door opening or window dropping on its own accord is down to be a faulty window encoder found under centre console. lose connection/wiring of some sort.
Passenger door window not going up after shutting door was the door lock micro switch sensor no working.
Driver door opening or window dropping on its own accord is down to be a faulty window encoder found under centre console. lose connection/wiring of some sort.
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