Boot seals, what’s correct?
Discussion
I posted this on Facebook but want to check the knowledge here too.
On my car there is the main boot seal surrounding the opening, and there is also a second seal glued to the actual boot lid too. I can’t see a reason for this seal and mine is old and I think is pushing the boot up on the offside.
I know some cars have it and some don’t. Is there a reason for it?
Also what is the correct boot seal for the opening to make the boot “pop” open?
Thanks
On my car there is the main boot seal surrounding the opening, and there is also a second seal glued to the actual boot lid too. I can’t see a reason for this seal and mine is old and I think is pushing the boot up on the offside.
I know some cars have it and some don’t. Is there a reason for it?
Also what is the correct boot seal for the opening to make the boot “pop” open?
Thanks
There is no purpose for the secondary seal on the lid other than, I would guess, to make it 'pop'. Took mine off years ago and never had any water ingress.
Sure I read that the boot lid was shaped slightly on the offside edge to be able to get your fingers underneath to open it, that could have been a Tuscan urban myth although mine is slightly higher on that side.....nothing to do with manufacturing tolerances I'm sure
Sure I read that the boot lid was shaped slightly on the offside edge to be able to get your fingers underneath to open it, that could have been a Tuscan urban myth although mine is slightly higher on that side.....nothing to do with manufacturing tolerances I'm sure
When I first acquired my Mk.1 S, the boot 'lid' had an additional seal profile attached.
As time went by - and on a rainy trip to Spa Classic 5(?) years ago (had a brief snow shower on the Friday afternoon - late May FFS!!), I discovered the boot floor was damp.
On return home, with me in boot and son with hose on the outside, discovered that the 'lid' was just fine....the water ingress was via failure of the sealing compound around several of the rear lights. Careful application of clear silicone rectified those leak paths!!
I agree, if the seal around the perimeter of the boot opening is in good condition, it doesn't need anything else. The uneven 'sit' of the boot lid is. I believe, caused by the uneven pressure exerted by the single gas strut on the Mk.1's
Nick
As time went by - and on a rainy trip to Spa Classic 5(?) years ago (had a brief snow shower on the Friday afternoon - late May FFS!!), I discovered the boot floor was damp.
On return home, with me in boot and son with hose on the outside, discovered that the 'lid' was just fine....the water ingress was via failure of the sealing compound around several of the rear lights. Careful application of clear silicone rectified those leak paths!!
I agree, if the seal around the perimeter of the boot opening is in good condition, it doesn't need anything else. The uneven 'sit' of the boot lid is. I believe, caused by the uneven pressure exerted by the single gas strut on the Mk.1's
Nick
Thanks all
Where the boot is slightly raised on the right hand side, I can get my finger in and underneath the boot lid seal, so it's clearly not sealing anything. There is a strip at the back of the lid that presses against the rear window, not sure if that is necessary either but guess it could stop vibrations of the rear window perhaps?
I think I will remove it and replace the main boot seal at the same time and see how it goes. Can someone confirm the correct size seal for the opening for a 2001 standard Tuscan?
Thanks
Where the boot is slightly raised on the right hand side, I can get my finger in and underneath the boot lid seal, so it's clearly not sealing anything. There is a strip at the back of the lid that presses against the rear window, not sure if that is necessary either but guess it could stop vibrations of the rear window perhaps?
I think I will remove it and replace the main boot seal at the same time and see how it goes. Can someone confirm the correct size seal for the opening for a 2001 standard Tuscan?
Thanks
The strip which touches the window is there to reinforce the 2 clips and stop any rubbing between the 2 surfaces, I would recommend leaving it in place.
I've read before people blaming the boot supports for distorting the lid but don't think this is the case. On mine anyway there has never been any push from them for the first 6 inches of lift, only when approaching 45degrees do you feel any assistance so I don't believe they can affect it in the closed position. The thing that affected my shut lines the most was the seal on the boot lid you're removing.
I've read before people blaming the boot supports for distorting the lid but don't think this is the case. On mine anyway there has never been any push from them for the first 6 inches of lift, only when approaching 45degrees do you feel any assistance so I don't believe they can affect it in the closed position. The thing that affected my shut lines the most was the seal on the boot lid you're removing.
OK so I replaced the boot seal with the one from Racetech apparently for the car, the problem is that it's pushing the boot up a lot, you have to use some force to close it and the gap all round is massive now. Also even with the new seal I noticed it's not sealing on the sides of the boot lid properly. Any ideas?
nawarne said:
When I first acquired my Mk.1 S, the boot 'lid' had an additional seal profile attached.
As time went by - and on a rainy trip to Spa Classic 5(?) years ago (had a brief snow shower on the Friday afternoon - late May FFS!!), I discovered the boot floor was damp.
On return home, with me in boot and son with hose on the outside, discovered that the 'lid' was just fine....the water ingress was via failure of the sealing compound around several of the rear lights. Careful application of clear silicone rectified those leak paths!!
I agree, if the seal around the perimeter of the boot opening is in good condition, it doesn't need anything else. The uneven 'sit' of the boot lid is. I believe, caused by the uneven pressure exerted by the single gas strut on the Mk.1's
Nick
I get water ingress and have never really traced it so will look at the light clusters although its more when the car is parked (rarely driven in the rain).As time went by - and on a rainy trip to Spa Classic 5(?) years ago (had a brief snow shower on the Friday afternoon - late May FFS!!), I discovered the boot floor was damp.
On return home, with me in boot and son with hose on the outside, discovered that the 'lid' was just fine....the water ingress was via failure of the sealing compound around several of the rear lights. Careful application of clear silicone rectified those leak paths!!
I agree, if the seal around the perimeter of the boot opening is in good condition, it doesn't need anything else. The uneven 'sit' of the boot lid is. I believe, caused by the uneven pressure exerted by the single gas strut on the Mk.1's
Nick
I changed the hinges to the Mk3 convertible types with a short gas strut each but strangely enough I seem to have a more uneven shut than before, not sure if the original offside strut twisted the lid over time.
Alignment and seals seems to be very much trial & error rather than science. I was going to have all the rubbers replaced when I had mine fully resprayed but the shop advised against it for that reason.
Was going to comment that my convertible had the larger seal but it was changed to the smaller one when I had a re-spray.
On the Mk1, is there a bas strut on both sides of the boot or only on the offside.
I cant remember if I'm confusing my old Chimaera or my first Tuscan but I felt that it was the single gas strut on the offside that always had the boot lid a bit high on that side.
On the Mk1, is there a bas strut on both sides of the boot or only on the offside.
I cant remember if I'm confusing my old Chimaera or my first Tuscan but I felt that it was the single gas strut on the offside that always had the boot lid a bit high on that side.
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