Bypass Heater Core to improve AC
Discussion
Has anyone setup a bypass of their heater core?
It is so close to the AC, and the flapper door is not the greatest IMHO at separating hot/cold air coming into the cabin.
It struck me, that if I could put a bypass between the input & outputs into the core it could help optimize the AC efficiency, by removing a bloody great big heat source.
If I used some taps, I could make it easy to turn back on.
I don't use my car in winter & frankly have no need for heat.
Thoughts?
It is so close to the AC, and the flapper door is not the greatest IMHO at separating hot/cold air coming into the cabin.
It struck me, that if I could put a bypass between the input & outputs into the core it could help optimize the AC efficiency, by removing a bloody great big heat source.
If I used some taps, I could make it easy to turn back on.
I don't use my car in winter & frankly have no need for heat.
Thoughts?
Ken, yes I have taken the heater matrix out of the circuit.
Some years ago, the matrix failed/started leaking. At that time I couldn't buy a new replacement. I just connected the IN/OUT pipework with a piece of central heating copper pipe and clipped the rubber pipe to the copper tube. Worked fine and ran like this for 2 weeks.
My matrix was repaired by an "old-skool" radiator repair shop local to me...now gone, unfortunately...Matrix is still in the car 7 years on.
Nick
Some years ago, the matrix failed/started leaking. At that time I couldn't buy a new replacement. I just connected the IN/OUT pipework with a piece of central heating copper pipe and clipped the rubber pipe to the copper tube. Worked fine and ran like this for 2 weeks.
My matrix was repaired by an "old-skool" radiator repair shop local to me...now gone, unfortunately...Matrix is still in the car 7 years on.
Nick
nawarne said:
Ken, yes I have taken the heater matrix out of the circuit.
Some years ago, the matrix failed/started leaking. At that time I couldn't buy a new replacement. I just connected the IN/OUT pipework with a piece of central heating copper pipe and clipped the rubber pipe to the copper tube. Worked fine and ran like this for 2 weeks.
My matrix was repaired by an "old-skool" radiator repair shop local to me...now gone, unfortunately...Matrix is still in the car 7 years on.
Nick
Do you have AC, and if so did you notice any difference?Some years ago, the matrix failed/started leaking. At that time I couldn't buy a new replacement. I just connected the IN/OUT pipework with a piece of central heating copper pipe and clipped the rubber pipe to the copper tube. Worked fine and ran like this for 2 weeks.
My matrix was repaired by an "old-skool" radiator repair shop local to me...now gone, unfortunately...Matrix is still in the car 7 years on.
Nick
KenInOntario said:
nawarne said:
Ken, yes I have taken the heater matrix out of the circuit.
Some years ago, the matrix failed/started leaking. At that time I couldn't buy a new replacement. I just connected the IN/OUT pipework with a piece of central heating copper pipe and clipped the rubber pipe to the copper tube. Worked fine and ran like this for 2 weeks.
My matrix was repaired by an "old-skool" radiator repair shop local to me...now gone, unfortunately...Matrix is still in the car 7 years on.
Nick
Do you have AC, and if so did you notice any difference?Some years ago, the matrix failed/started leaking. At that time I couldn't buy a new replacement. I just connected the IN/OUT pipework with a piece of central heating copper pipe and clipped the rubber pipe to the copper tube. Worked fine and ran like this for 2 weeks.
My matrix was repaired by an "old-skool" radiator repair shop local to me...now gone, unfortunately...Matrix is still in the car 7 years on.
Nick
Think you mentioned that the stepper motor/flap arrangement is not "hi-tech" !! I have also hat to do a repair to the bracket on the flap which became detached when the rivets (or epoxy?) failed - thereby leaving the flap in the 'down' position....might be worth checking this? Having said all that, the a/c matrix pod and heater matrix pod are close together, that, coupled with likely blown air bleed via the poor seal on the flap is a source of inefficiency to 'conditioned' air going to the cabin. Another poor design is that the dash top "plenum" is right under the windscreen and gets very hot on a day with strong sun...made worse if the dash top is in a dark colour!!
That's my 2 cents worth!!
Nick
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