Clunk Click Jump Start System, better than an Anderson?
Discussion
I believe it's a continuation (from another thread) regarding externally powering-up a car to gain access when the battery has died.
The posts would presumably be permanently mounted externally (on an insulating material!), wired (hopefully via a fuse and at least 6 relays
) to the car's battery. When necessary, the q/r battery clamps would be temporarily clipped on, powering the cars electrics from an external source, enabling door and boot opening.
Do I get a prize, Penny?
Still prefer a (well maintained) Anderson myself. It only need to be fused for say 10A to enable opening, rather than for boost starting as on the T cars... on which I believe it wasn't fused at all?
The posts would presumably be permanently mounted externally (on an insulating material!), wired (hopefully via a fuse and at least 6 relays

Do I get a prize, Penny?
Still prefer a (well maintained) Anderson myself. It only need to be fused for say 10A to enable opening, rather than for boost starting as on the T cars... on which I believe it wasn't fused at all?
TwinKam said:
I believe it's a continuation (from another thread) regarding externally powering-up a car to gain access when the battery has died.
The posts would presumably be permanently mounted externally (on an insulating material!), wired (hopefully via a fuse and at least 6 relays
) to the car's battery. When necessary, the q/r battery clamps would be temporarily clipped on, powering the cars electrics from an external source, enabling door and boot opening.
Do I get a prize, Penny?
Still prefer a (well maintained) Anderson myself. It only need to be fused for say 10A to enable opening, rather than for boost starting as on the T cars... on which I believe it wasn't fused at all?
You certainly do get the prize and 1st prize it will beThe posts would presumably be permanently mounted externally (on an insulating material!), wired (hopefully via a fuse and at least 6 relays

Do I get a prize, Penny?
Still prefer a (well maintained) Anderson myself. It only need to be fused for say 10A to enable opening, rather than for boost starting as on the T cars... on which I believe it wasn't fused at all?
You have earned my utmost respect from now on, thinking about the insulating material won it for you
This had nothing to do with any other topic
I need to come up with a solution for powering a pump that raises the front of a tanker, it's an articulated tipping tanker
Need to be able to quickly get 24 volts from the unit to the tank pump when tipping is needed
Can't possibly run heavy battery cables along with the suzi's as they would break over a short period of use
Pump draws approximately 275 Amps
Was going to use 350 AMP Anderson connectors yet going by past experience I reckon they will slowly overheat, weaken and fail
Have decided to use the above method as explained by yourself
Posted here for anyone that doesn't like Anderson connectors
I have seen those q/r battery terminals in the past, even considered using them on comp cars (where you want instant & tool-less disconnection), but not sure they'd handle the current, nor frequent con/dis-connection... they were flimsy to say the least; easily distorted metal, and note the cable connectors.
I have more faith in Andersons!
Edited to add: Re your tipper, have you considered using 'welding' cable? Much more flexible and less likely to break.
I have more faith in Andersons!
Edited to add: Re your tipper, have you considered using 'welding' cable? Much more flexible and less likely to break.
Edited by TwinKam on Monday 3rd August 12:08
TwinKam said:
I have seen those q/r battery terminals in the past, even considered using them on comp cars (where you want instant & tool-less disconnection), but not sure they'd handle the current, nor frequent con/dis-connection... they were flimsy to say the least; easily distorted metal, and note the cable connectors.
I have more faith in Andersons!
Edited to add: Re your tipper, have you considered using 'welding' cable? Much more flexible and less likely to break.
Welding cable is a good idea, had thought about flexi battery cableI have more faith in Andersons!
Edited to add: Re your tipper, have you considered using 'welding' cable? Much more flexible and less likely to break.
Edited by TwinKam on Monday 3rd August 12:08
The snag and it's a big one is, if anything ever went wrong and a burning cable burnt through an air suzi (can't bring myself to fuse battery cable, never have done and never will).....................you know the rest
You've got me thinking about fitting dummy suzi's to twirl the cable around from unit to tank, even in doing this there would be an extra 2 x 3 meters of cable needed
Yes those connectors are useless, was thinking about removing the plating and soldering them, didn't know they were flimsy
Thank you for the suggestion, am all mixed up in the head now, will have a think
TwinKam, if you're about
What do you think about these? They're rated at 1000 Amps and do look the business to me
https://www.durite.co.uk/s/c/wiring-accessories/ba...

Thank you in advance




or

What do you think about these? They're rated at 1000 Amps and do look the business to me
https://www.durite.co.uk/s/c/wiring-accessories/ba...

Thank you in advance




or

Edited by Penelope Stopit on Sunday 6th September 15:46
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