what do I look for?
Discussion
hi,
right my elise is sold, just waiting for the DVLA to sort out the number plate retention etc then it's gone have buyers deposit so all sorted.
So am looking at what sounds like my perfect car next week. Long distance to travel so i dont really want to get it wrong. Apart from history and general condition of the car is there anything that you guys can suggestion to look for or be aware of?
thanks in advance,
cant wait to join the tvr ranks.
rick
right my elise is sold, just waiting for the DVLA to sort out the number plate retention etc then it's gone have buyers deposit so all sorted.
So am looking at what sounds like my perfect car next week. Long distance to travel so i dont really want to get it wrong. Apart from history and general condition of the car is there anything that you guys can suggestion to look for or be aware of?
thanks in advance,
cant wait to join the tvr ranks.
rick
Check the following:
* Service history - make sure it's been done at least once a year regardless of mileage. Dealer stamps will generally help with resale, too
* Expect a large number of invoices, receipts, etc. relative to the age of the car
* Check the inner edge of the tyre for excessive wear - a geometry realignment'll need doing if so
* Make sure you drive the car/experience it being driven on bad road surfaces - if it's hunting around, tramlining, etc. or feels anything other than pussycat like, the geometry/tyre combination's wrong - don't accept any excuses of "they're all like that"; they're not. And a badly set-up one is plain lethal
* Check all the electrics - especially buttons around the dashpod, washer jets, and air-con (all fairly notorious)
* Check for an unevenness like misfiring at constant RPM - that could well be worn throttle bodies
* Check for high RPM misfire (6000/6500RPM+) - similar to the above
* Check for blue smoke from the exhausts on start-up/pulling away from lights, etc. - that could well be worn valve guides needing a rebuild (usually on cars with >18,000 miles)
* Check that the fans at the front come on when the temperature hits 90-odd degrees
* Check that the roof panel, dash top, and rear screen don't squeak rattle (i.e. if the roof's off when you go to test it, make sure you try it with it on, too)
* Check for vibration through the steering wheel at varying speeds - likely one of the wheels has been kerbed
* Check the suspension for leaks from the dampers, and check for squeaks/clunks while test-driving it
* Check the footwells/boot for visible damp/the smell of it - leaks can be a real pain to track down
* Do a free RAC check (on their site) on the reg plate - see how many owners it's been through
* Check for stonechips on the front - good haggling point as it'll be £500+ to get them sprayed out
* Check for extras: CCC cans, de-cat, Red-rosing of engine, uprated suspension, air-con, DAB, front/rear spoiler - all desirable stuff
* Check the radiator for leaks (taking it out for a run, then turning it off and looking as it cools down is a good one)
* Check how the owner drives it from cold when they start it up
* THEN ask them what their usually warming-up procedure is
* Check how much oil it gets through (once you're down to 1 litre every 500 or so miles you're in dangerous territory)
* Check the hinges on the bottom-front of the service bonnet for cracks/wear
* Check the issues raised by the garage at the last service (should be on the invoice/whatever)
* Check the wheels for kerbing (good haggling point)
* Check the tyres - not cheap to replace all round (another good haggling point)
* Check the engine's history VERY CAREFULLY
Bear in mind the following:
* A clutch will usually last a smidge over 20k miles
* A gearbox'll probably be starting to wear the synchro' on 2nd/5th by 30,000 (should last a bit longer if treated tenderly, though) - check high RPM gear-changes (5-6000 or more) into 2nd and 5th to test for this
* An earlier engine may well need costly work doing if it's not already been done
Sorry, don't have time to list everything right now - might come back and finish the list off later.
Hope that helps...
* Service history - make sure it's been done at least once a year regardless of mileage. Dealer stamps will generally help with resale, too
* Expect a large number of invoices, receipts, etc. relative to the age of the car
* Check the inner edge of the tyre for excessive wear - a geometry realignment'll need doing if so
* Make sure you drive the car/experience it being driven on bad road surfaces - if it's hunting around, tramlining, etc. or feels anything other than pussycat like, the geometry/tyre combination's wrong - don't accept any excuses of "they're all like that"; they're not. And a badly set-up one is plain lethal
* Check all the electrics - especially buttons around the dashpod, washer jets, and air-con (all fairly notorious)
* Check for an unevenness like misfiring at constant RPM - that could well be worn throttle bodies
* Check for high RPM misfire (6000/6500RPM+) - similar to the above
* Check for blue smoke from the exhausts on start-up/pulling away from lights, etc. - that could well be worn valve guides needing a rebuild (usually on cars with >18,000 miles)
* Check that the fans at the front come on when the temperature hits 90-odd degrees
* Check that the roof panel, dash top, and rear screen don't squeak rattle (i.e. if the roof's off when you go to test it, make sure you try it with it on, too)
* Check for vibration through the steering wheel at varying speeds - likely one of the wheels has been kerbed
* Check the suspension for leaks from the dampers, and check for squeaks/clunks while test-driving it
* Check the footwells/boot for visible damp/the smell of it - leaks can be a real pain to track down
* Do a free RAC check (on their site) on the reg plate - see how many owners it's been through
* Check for stonechips on the front - good haggling point as it'll be £500+ to get them sprayed out
* Check for extras: CCC cans, de-cat, Red-rosing of engine, uprated suspension, air-con, DAB, front/rear spoiler - all desirable stuff
* Check the radiator for leaks (taking it out for a run, then turning it off and looking as it cools down is a good one)
* Check how the owner drives it from cold when they start it up
* THEN ask them what their usually warming-up procedure is
* Check how much oil it gets through (once you're down to 1 litre every 500 or so miles you're in dangerous territory)
* Check the hinges on the bottom-front of the service bonnet for cracks/wear
* Check the issues raised by the garage at the last service (should be on the invoice/whatever)
* Check the wheels for kerbing (good haggling point)
* Check the tyres - not cheap to replace all round (another good haggling point)
* Check the engine's history VERY CAREFULLY
Bear in mind the following:
* A clutch will usually last a smidge over 20k miles
* A gearbox'll probably be starting to wear the synchro' on 2nd/5th by 30,000 (should last a bit longer if treated tenderly, though) - check high RPM gear-changes (5-6000 or more) into 2nd and 5th to test for this
* An earlier engine may well need costly work doing if it's not already been done
Sorry, don't have time to list everything right now - might come back and finish the list off later.
Hope that helps...
Blipi said:
OK looking at similar info myself here.
You say 'engine work' what exactly are you talking about? And what are classed as 'earlier models'? I ahve seena few ads which mention engine re-build etc. Sounds concerning.
My 20K budget seems to be looking at yr2000 models.
Oh geeze, here we go... I'd suggest you go over to the "Speed Six Engine" forum and ask that question there, to keep it off the Tuscan board (as the question gets asked a lot).
Background info: A very substantial percentage of early cars have either needed already (or will need going forwards, status dependent on mileage covered so far) engine rebuilds for common faults - particularly worn finger followers and valve guides. The newer the engine or the more recent the rebuild, the less likely you'll be, in principle, to suffer this problem.
Would really suggest taking this conversation over to the other forum...
thanks guys.
i will print out that list and go from there.
the car i'm going to see is an 04. 4ltr with 6000 miles on the clock. so i do hope it's a good example.
I would hope that some of the points raised above might not apply to a car of this age but i will see next week.
cant wait and thanks again
rick
i will print out that list and go from there.
the car i'm going to see is an 04. 4ltr with 6000 miles on the clock. so i do hope it's a good example.
I would hope that some of the points raised above might not apply to a car of this age but i will see next week.
cant wait and thanks again
rick
[quote=rick111s]thanks guys.
i will print out that list and go from there.
the car i'm going to see is an 04. 4ltr with 6000 miles on the clock.
If its a 4.0ltr it will be an S model. All std tuscans at that age will be 3.6 . Dont believe the V5 or the owners manual. There are various differences most obvious being boot spoiler on S .(and of course the price) my car was listed as 4.0 but turned out as 3.6. I phoned the factory for confirmation before buying. they where v helpfull. The guy who 1st bought the car ex demo thought he had an S and said he was suing dealer for the 6k price diff.?
But the 3.6 is bloody fast, never been in an S but they must be awsome!!
i will print out that list and go from there.
the car i'm going to see is an 04. 4ltr with 6000 miles on the clock.
If its a 4.0ltr it will be an S model. All std tuscans at that age will be 3.6 . Dont believe the V5 or the owners manual. There are various differences most obvious being boot spoiler on S .(and of course the price) my car was listed as 4.0 but turned out as 3.6. I phoned the factory for confirmation before buying. they where v helpfull. The guy who 1st bought the car ex demo thought he had an S and said he was suing dealer for the 6k price diff.?
But the 3.6 is bloody fast, never been in an S but they must be awsome!!
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