Steel Crankshafts
Discussion
Boys n Girls.....check out these lerverly steel crank shafts.....TVRCraft are able to supply these for less than 2K and they are much better than the standard cast cranks awesome... oh
An this one is going in my Tusc....
Edited by yzf1070 on Friday 8th September 16:42
An this one is going in my Tusc....
Edited by yzf1070 on Friday 8th September 16:43
Boosted LS1 said:
Very nice to but just out of interest how does it's weight compare to the cast item?
Boosted.
Boosted.
Now then Boosted
Good question and I really do not know having not personally weighed it. However, I was gob smacked at the weight of my standard cast crank tho, must be around the 20 - 25 KG mark. But considering that these steel shafts are built to the exact same specs as the T400 race cars, its highly likely to be fit for purpose. The one pictured has just been sent away with the rest of my S6 bottom end bits n bobs for balancing.
A very happy G
I amyzf1070 said:
Boosted LS1 said:
Very nice to but just out of interest how does it's weight compare to the cast item?
Boosted.
Boosted.
Now then Boosted
Good question and I really do not know having not personally weighed it. However, I was gob smacked at the weight of my standard cast crank tho, must be around the 20 - 25 KG mark. But considering that these steel shafts are built to the exact same specs as the T400 race cars, its highly likely to be fit for purpose. The one pictured has just been sent away with the rest of my S6 bottom end bits n bobs for balancing.
A very happy G
I amAnd very happy you should be
I can't speak for your original crank weight but once came across a billet rv8 crank and it was mega heavy. Not worth fitting into a rv8 unless it was being build to turn very high rpms. Take it you're going to give yours a jolly good thrashing! Boosted.
had a steel crank(pheonix)in my dolomite sprint,208 b.h.p. @ 7800 r.p.m.8200 max.in the eighties!
The crank was about 3 kilos lighter then the cast item and was designed to run with an ally fly wheel,an ally front pulley set,and works double chain kit.
and a tubular steel jackshaft,custom camshaft and followers with ford x-flow adjusters on the end of each and custom valve caps passed to me by someone who worked at Abingdon works
,apparently the valvetrain was uinque,
all this combined saved about 17 or so kilos off the turning masses.
It revved very freely like a bike and because of the carbs and cam it still retained its decent(for the day)torque and popped and banged like nowt else on the overrun.
flames and S**T!
these cranks kits were expensive (£1200) at the time,but well proven in touring cars and you have the most expensive part of making big revs sorted without worrying about your crank making a bid for freedom.
for those who dont know,triumph slant 4 cyl 2.0 litre,it ran one cam onto sixteen valves with a very clever set up, and won the design award the year it was released 1973,
I suppose it was the sp6 of its day! brilliant but flawed
.
The crank was about 3 kilos lighter then the cast item and was designed to run with an ally fly wheel,an ally front pulley set,and works double chain kit.
and a tubular steel jackshaft,custom camshaft and followers with ford x-flow adjusters on the end of each and custom valve caps passed to me by someone who worked at Abingdon works
,apparently the valvetrain was uinque, all this combined saved about 17 or so kilos off the turning masses.
It revved very freely like a bike and because of the carbs and cam it still retained its decent(for the day)torque and popped and banged like nowt else on the overrun.
flames and S**T!
these cranks kits were expensive (£1200) at the time,but well proven in touring cars and you have the most expensive part of making big revs sorted without worrying about your crank making a bid for freedom.
for those who dont know,triumph slant 4 cyl 2.0 litre,it ran one cam onto sixteen valves with a very clever set up, and won the design award the year it was released 1973,
I suppose it was the sp6 of its day! brilliant but flawed
. Boosted LS1 said:
yzf1070 said:
Boosted LS1 said:
Very nice to but just out of interest how does it's weight compare to the cast item?
Boosted.
Boosted.
Now then Boosted
Good question and I really do not know having not personally weighed it. However, I was gob smacked at the weight of my standard cast crank tho, must be around the 20 - 25 KG mark. But considering that these steel shafts are built to the exact same specs as the T400 race cars, its highly likely to be fit for purpose. The one pictured has just been sent away with the rest of my S6 bottom end bits n bobs for balancing.
A very happy G
I amAnd very happy you should be
I can't speak for your original crank weight but once came across a billet rv8 crank and it was mega heavy. Not worth fitting into a rv8 unless it was being build to turn very high rpms. Take it you're going to give yours a jolly good thrashing! Boosted.
Why - what's wrong with a steel crank in an Rv8 ?
rev-erend said:
Boosted LS1 said:
yzf1070 said:
Boosted LS1 said:
Very nice to but just out of interest how does it's weight compare to the cast item?
Boosted.
Boosted.
Now then Boosted
Good question and I really do not know having not personally weighed it. However, I was gob smacked at the weight of my standard cast crank tho, must be around the 20 - 25 KG mark. But considering that these steel shafts are built to the exact same specs as the T400 race cars, its highly likely to be fit for purpose. The one pictured has just been sent away with the rest of my S6 bottom end bits n bobs for balancing.
A very happy G
I amAnd very happy you should be
I can't speak for your original crank weight but once came across a billet rv8 crank and it was mega heavy. Not worth fitting into a rv8 unless it was being build to turn very high rpms. Take it you're going to give yours a jolly good thrashing! Boosted.
Why - what's wrong with a steel crank in an Rv8 ?
Do you mean cast or forged? Guess it's all heavier. Anyway, the weight of some of them is huge! You don't need excess weight, ever. If you are using forged rods and heavier components then a steel crank has a purpose to hold it all together but only if you intend to rev the nuts off the engine. Otherwise a cast iron crank is perfectly up to the job and more forgiving. Cast can take a few knocks being less brittle. Steel is for racers and only just as far as rv8's are concerned, imo
Boosted.
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