Discussion
2" screw means new tyre needed.
Running 245/40/18 at the mo and after reading previous threads I'm thinking of going 255 on both rears as they are both on the limit tread wise anyway. Question is do I go by the owners manual and fit 35 section this time or are the 40's a better option, any advice would be appreciated as I've got a lop sided car at moment!
Running 245/40/18 at the mo and after reading previous threads I'm thinking of going 255 on both rears as they are both on the limit tread wise anyway. Question is do I go by the owners manual and fit 35 section this time or are the 40's a better option, any advice would be appreciated as I've got a lop sided car at moment!
s6boy said:
2" screw means new tyre needed.
Running 245/40/18 at the mo and after reading previous threads I'm thinking of going 255 on both rears as they are both on the limit tread wise anyway. Question is do I go by the owners manual and fit 35 section this time or are the 40's a better option, any advice would be appreciated as I've got a lop sided car at moment!
Go for the one with the same rolling circumference, Which will be the 35 on 255Running 245/40/18 at the mo and after reading previous threads I'm thinking of going 255 on both rears as they are both on the limit tread wise anyway. Question is do I go by the owners manual and fit 35 section this time or are the 40's a better option, any advice would be appreciated as I've got a lop sided car at moment!
going 255 all around is good for everyday handling. If you frequently do trackdays, you may find that you get excessive wear on the outer flanks of the tyre since the 8 1/2 rims aren't really wide enough to prevent tyre warping unless you use pressures exceeding 30 psi. I shredded through a set of 255 Zero Corsas in a single session at Spa
H.C may go the 255 route when the fronts need replacing, but would expect you get more tramlining than with the narrower section?
I guess my original question should have read is there a reason mine had 40 profiles on the back as opposed the 35's specified in the handbook ie. for more compliance, and if someone has had experience of both profiles is there a noticable difference?
Edited
Tussie, just read your post and silly question time does that mean front and rear wheels are the same width. If so how do 225 work on the same rim as a 255?
I guess my original question should have read is there a reason mine had 40 profiles on the back as opposed the 35's specified in the handbook ie. for more compliance, and if someone has had experience of both profiles is there a noticable difference?
Edited
Tussie, just read your post and silly question time does that mean front and rear wheels are the same width. If so how do 225 work on the same rim as a 255?
Edited by s6boy on Monday 4th June 19:16
s6boy said:
H.C may go the 255 route when the fronts need replacing, but would expect you get more tramlining than with the narrower section?
There is less tramlining on the 255's compared with the 235's. 235's were SO2's 255's are Toyo T1R's. The SO2 appeared to have a thinner profile even though both tyres are 35's. Don't know if that made a difference or if this helps. The S models have 255's all round.
Rims are same 8.5 width front and back on Mk1s as well. The original non RR/S cars came with 225/35 front and 255/35 rear which wasn´t a great set up as 225s are too narrow for the rims. Factory moved to 235 & 245/40s which improved the ride a lot. I´ve run both 245/40 and 255/35 F1s on the rear of mine and not really much in it ride wise. I´m currently running 255/35 rear and 235/40 on the front as I prefer the handling that way.
Basil Brush said:
Rims are same 8.5 width front and back on Mk1s as well. The original non RR/S cars came with 225/35 front and 255/35 rear which wasn´t a great set up as 225s are too narrow for the rims. Factory moved to 235 & 245/40s which improved the ride a lot. I´ve run both 245/40 and 255/35 F1s on the rear of mine and not really much in it ride wise. I´m currently running 255/35 rear and 235/40 on the front as I prefer the handling that way.
I spoke to the TVR Chassis designer last week, and he recommended changing fronts on a Mk 2 'S' to 235/40's, thats how it was designed, PW wanted 255/35's. I think there was also a supply problem with 235/40s at the time.glow worm said:
Basil Brush said:
Rims are same 8.5 width front and back on Mk1s as well. The original non RR/S cars came with 225/35 front and 255/35 rear which wasn´t a great set up as 225s are too narrow for the rims. Factory moved to 235 & 245/40s which improved the ride a lot. I´ve run both 245/40 and 255/35 F1s on the rear of mine and not really much in it ride wise. I´m currently running 255/35 rear and 235/40 on the front as I prefer the handling that way.
I spoke to the TVR Chassis designer last week, and he recommended changing fronts on a Mk 2 'S' to 235/40's, thats how it was designed, PW wanted 255/35's. I think there was also a supply problem with 235/40s at the time.Basil Brush said:
You shouldn't need to change the settings, but always worth getting them checked if not done for a while, or wear on old ones looks uneven. It will lower the rear ride height by about 9mm, so if on adjustable suspension you could re level the car.
Had the car set up last month when Gaz golds were fitted:Camber (front) left-0*37'
right-0*39'
Toe (front) left+0*05'
right+0*05'
Camber (rear) left-1*09'
right-1*00'
Toe (rear) left+0*11'
right+0*11'
Setback +0*01'
Geo driving axis -0*00'
Pretty much spot on with the settings but feel there is more understeer than before and still not tide down as much as I'd like, so maybe adjusting the ride height front and rear is a good way to go at the same time as screwing the springs down a bit and tightening the dampers up.
Had an interesting tussle with an F430 on the M11, but it got a bit 'lively' on a bumpy section after the speed camera where the Ferrari seemed to just sail over. This is why I'm trying to find the best tyre/suspension set-up. Thanks again for the info.
Right 2 new 255/35's rears fitted.
First impressions are a much quieter ride (but the old ones were badly worn). Not noticed any increase in ride harshness at all. So far so good.
Day I had them changed had been raining and 'quite lively' is the best way of describing the grip, but I was expecting that from reading previous threads.
What I wasn't expecting was the gap in the arches. Only going down from 40 profile to 35 I wouldn't have thought would make such a difference but it now looks like I could've fitted chunky tread tyres and gone off roading there's so much room, spoils the look
.
Lastly the back end feels really loose above 80 so much so there isn't the confidence to go any faster, I'm just hoping this is a process of the tyres bedding in.
First impressions are a much quieter ride (but the old ones were badly worn). Not noticed any increase in ride harshness at all. So far so good.
Day I had them changed had been raining and 'quite lively' is the best way of describing the grip, but I was expecting that from reading previous threads.
What I wasn't expecting was the gap in the arches. Only going down from 40 profile to 35 I wouldn't have thought would make such a difference but it now looks like I could've fitted chunky tread tyres and gone off roading there's so much room, spoils the look
.Lastly the back end feels really loose above 80 so much so there isn't the confidence to go any faster, I'm just hoping this is a process of the tyres bedding in.
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