Rear End Vibration...........The ongoing search.
Discussion
Having had my Tuscan now for about 8 months, it's always had a rear end vibration (At 100mph + )which has been proving very had to find where the fault lies.
For the past couple of months, I've been trying to track down the cause............. Replace both drive shaft assemblies (Purchased two brand new drive shaft & CV Assemblies), replaced both rear tyres (Which needed replacing anyway), Had both rear wheels sent away and checked for any buckles/flat spots (Measured on a lathe with a dti gauge, and found to be perfect).
Last week I decided to eliminate any item that could be causing the vibration. As I was checking the suspension alignment, I noticed that one of the propshaft - Diff bolts was loose, Initially I was going to just tighten it up, but decided to remove it to clean it up first. On inspection I noticed that the shank on the bolt didn't seem long enough to go through both flanges. Then I thought I'd play it safe and take out all four and replace them. When I looked at the items advertised on Clever Trevors Web Site, It appears that the shank on the replacement bolts do look alot longer than the bolts on mine.
Obviously this could lead to vibration problems at the end of the prop shaft due to the differential - propshaft flange not being aligned 100%.
Here's hoping that this could be the problem i've been trying to resolve.
Here's the picture of the bolts I removed, and the ones Clever Trever is selling.
Any Comments Welcome, or suggestions of anything else to check.
For the past couple of months, I've been trying to track down the cause............. Replace both drive shaft assemblies (Purchased two brand new drive shaft & CV Assemblies), replaced both rear tyres (Which needed replacing anyway), Had both rear wheels sent away and checked for any buckles/flat spots (Measured on a lathe with a dti gauge, and found to be perfect).
Last week I decided to eliminate any item that could be causing the vibration. As I was checking the suspension alignment, I noticed that one of the propshaft - Diff bolts was loose, Initially I was going to just tighten it up, but decided to remove it to clean it up first. On inspection I noticed that the shank on the bolt didn't seem long enough to go through both flanges. Then I thought I'd play it safe and take out all four and replace them. When I looked at the items advertised on Clever Trevors Web Site, It appears that the shank on the replacement bolts do look alot longer than the bolts on mine.
Obviously this could lead to vibration problems at the end of the prop shaft due to the differential - propshaft flange not being aligned 100%.
Here's hoping that this could be the problem i've been trying to resolve.
Here's the picture of the bolts I removed, and the ones Clever Trever is selling.
Any Comments Welcome, or suggestions of anything else to check.
Edited by Jim Green on Tuesday 3rd February 19:43
YAHOO said:
Same boat
I change everything at the rear
Wheel tyres discs diff shafts CV's prop etc, had the car from new and its still has a slight vib between 110-170 , Started after long track day,
The only thing i have not changed is the rear hub - bearing assembly's
Good luck on you search.
yes bearing packs can cause problems especially when driven hard or knocked, you can check for grease pushed out at the rear of bearing carrier, some cars were pushed around on the line without drive shafts fitted(when d/shafts out of stock) this put stress on the bearing assembly's later it was encouraged to put securing fixing through same as front bearings until d/shafts were in stock. good luck I change everything at the rear
Wheel tyres discs diff shafts CV's prop etc, had the car from new and its still has a slight vib between 110-170 , Started after long track day,
The only thing i have not changed is the rear hub - bearing assembly's
Good luck on you search.
mv automotive said:
glow worm said:
MV, did I hear there was a recall on uprights (hub carrier) on Tuscan Mk1s, and was that fronts only??
recall was only for front ally uprights, bearing carrier was re-used.The new ones are certainly a lot thicker metal.
Edited by glow worm on Thursday 5th February 10:52
Andy,
I'm going to get hold the TVR bulletin next week, which states chassis numbers... applies to cars pre 2002 with AP Racing calipers written on them...the newer uprights only fit AP calipers with TVR (in yellow) written on them.
It was the only official TVR recall and was done by the DVLA notifying all owners. There should be a sticker on your VIN plate to saying "Recall completed" (or similiar).... I'm told that 99% of cars would have been done, since it was very well communicated at the time. If a car has ever passed thorough a main dealer it should have been picked up, however maybe some independents were not aware.
A "repair" hub was produced to fit the AP racing caliper, however these are the ones no longer available. So if the new std. upright is used , you'll probably have to put new calipers on aswell.
If there's anything wrong with my statement, it will be my fault in translation , and not the source.
DON'T ALL START PANICING 99% WERE DEFINETLY DONE
I'm going to get hold the TVR bulletin next week, which states chassis numbers... applies to cars pre 2002 with AP Racing calipers written on them...the newer uprights only fit AP calipers with TVR (in yellow) written on them.
It was the only official TVR recall and was done by the DVLA notifying all owners. There should be a sticker on your VIN plate to saying "Recall completed" (or similiar).... I'm told that 99% of cars would have been done, since it was very well communicated at the time. If a car has ever passed thorough a main dealer it should have been picked up, however maybe some independents were not aware.
A "repair" hub was produced to fit the AP racing caliper, however these are the ones no longer available. So if the new std. upright is used , you'll probably have to put new calipers on aswell.
If there's anything wrong with my statement, it will be my fault in translation , and not the source.
DON'T ALL START PANICING 99% WERE DEFINETLY DONE
Edited by glow worm on Thursday 5th February 13:04
Edited by glow worm on Thursday 5th February 13:38
I'm guessing that perhaps mine has either not been done, or the sticker has long since fallen off. Mine is a 2002 registered (built 2001) with AP calipers and yellow writing. They are DS6600 if my memory or part number serves me correctly. I'd be very interested in what can be done if mine wasn't recalled - who would I speak to to get it done? My local TVR 'Main Dealer' or the TVR garage I bought it from, a long way away from me (who are still trading in TVRs and may be considered a main dealer - I'm not sure).
mv automotive said:
YAHOO said:
Same boat
I change everything at the rear
Wheel tyres discs diff shafts CV's prop etc, had the car from new and its still has a slight vib between 110-170 , Started after long track day,
The only thing i have not changed is the rear hub - bearing assembly's
Good luck on you search.
yes bearing packs can cause problems especially when driven hard or knocked, you can check for grease pushed out at the rear of bearing carrier, some cars were pushed around on the line without drive shafts fitted(when d/shafts out of stock) this put stress on the bearing assembly's later it was encouraged to put securing fixing through same as front bearings until d/shafts were in stock. good luck I change everything at the rear
Wheel tyres discs diff shafts CV's prop etc, had the car from new and its still has a slight vib between 110-170 , Started after long track day,
The only thing i have not changed is the rear hub - bearing assembly's
Good luck on you search.
.Saying that the car has done 10k on the road and 8k on track 
and got no worse Will check it out.
Thanks
you want to know what happpens if your car has not been done? you get a call asking you to sit down before you get the price! there is no factory to help you now with the costs and you will need new calipers as well. about £800 should sort it.
Edited by softtop on Saturday 7th February 07:49
softtop said:
you want to know what happpens if your car has not been done? you get a call asking you to sit down before you get the price! there is no factory to help you now with the costs and you will need new calipers as well. about £800 should sort it.
Hi Softtop....It was your car I saw then... recognise the reg.... an expensive oversight in the past. But Paul would do a good job, have you taken the upright ? ...I was going to photograph it and put it up here. glow worm said:
softtop said:
you want to know what happpens if your car has not been done? you get a call asking you to sit down before you get the price! there is no factory to help you now with the costs and you will need new calipers as well. about £800 should sort it.
Hi Softtop....It was your car I saw then... recognise the reg.... an expensive oversight in the past. But Paul would do a good job, have you taken the upright ? ...I was going to photograph it and put it up here. Edited by softtop on Saturday 7th February 10:49
softtop said:
Go Glow, education is one of the things we all seek, and your explanation is correct. So if anyone who has a Cerb or other TVR that can take an AP unit up to 2000 and has snapped a brake nipple, watch out for the classifieds....
Softtop, do I read this correctly... you snapped a brake nipple and that resulted in you having to replace uprights and calipers? Surely you or the garage tried to remove the snapped brake nipple first?
Years ago I bought a removal tool for this very job. It worked a treat on 2 snapped (ahem) nipples on what was then my car (Opel Kadett) and over the years has been lent out to 3 other mates and succesfully sorted them as well. I bought it circa 1985 from a local auto shop that no longer exists. But it is basically a small pilot drill and an x shaped easy out that has a very slight taper. You pass the pilot drill through the snapped nipple and tap in the easy out. It bites hard into the nipple and you use a spanner to turn the easy out. The one time it failed to remove a snapped nipple in my mates escort, it cut the pilot hole bigger. We then simply used a tap and re-threaded the caliper. A new nipple screwed right in. Perhaps each occassion above could be put down to good fortune.... I am not sure?!? But it sounds like one expensive hard lesson you have had there...
yzf1070 said:
softtop said:
Go Glow, education is one of the things we all seek, and your explanation is correct. So if anyone who has a Cerb or other TVR that can take an AP unit up to 2000 and has snapped a brake nipple, watch out for the classifieds....
Softtop, do I read this correctly... you snapped a brake nipple and that resulted in you having to replace uprights and calipers? Surely you or the garage tried to remove the snapped brake nipple first?
Years ago I bought a removal tool for this very job. It worked a treat on 2 snapped (ahem) nipples on what was then my car (Opel Kadett) and over the years has been lent out to 3 other mates and succesfully sorted them as well. I bought it circa 1985 from a local auto shop that no longer exists. But it is basically a small pilot drill and an x shaped easy out that has a very slight taper. You pass the pilot drill through the snapped nipple and tap in the easy out. It bites hard into the nipple and you use a spanner to turn the easy out. The one time it failed to remove a snapped nipple in my mates escort, it cut the pilot hole bigger. We then simply used a tap and re-threaded the caliper. A new nipple screwed right in. Perhaps each occassion above could be put down to good fortune.... I am not sure?!? But it sounds like one expensive hard lesson you have had there...
softtop said:
No brake issues. The car failed to have the recall done on the uprights so that means new calipers needed since the old ones will not fit. Instead of selling brake calipers I am selling the solution to those who have sheared off a nipple! I need to recoup some money!
Oops sorry I missunderstood..... 
good luck with getting something backKind regards
G
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