Discussion
Now then, we've all read and some have experienced just how good Nitron dampers are and how they dramatically improve the road holding / balance of the car 
However mine are just way too hard for normal day to day driving. How easy are these to 'soften up'. Is it something that can be done yourself or is it, as I suspect, a bit of a pro's job and best left to the experts?
However mine are just way too hard for normal day to day driving. How easy are these to 'soften up'. Is it something that can be done yourself or is it, as I suspect, a bit of a pro's job and best left to the experts?Isley said:
Now then, we've all read and some have experienced just how good Nitron dampers are and how they dramatically improve the road holding / balance of the car
You can adjust the dampers with the red knurled nuts under the top mount. There is an arrow which shows you the direction to turn.
The knurled bits (adjusters) could be blue if they're the later NTR damper. Could be either end of the damper depending on whether they are mounted inverted or not. On my Cerb the rears can be adjusted with the wheels on (they're inverted). The fronts require removal of the wheel as they wouldn't fit inverted. There should be 22 positions (clicks) from full soft - to full hard +. This time of year with wet, slippy roads you'll want them fairly soft. I have mine at 8 clicks from fully soft front and rear. You might want to consider having the front a couple of clicks harder than the rear as I think this should promote a bias towards understeer and help with traction at the rear end. No bad thing in dodgy conditions.
Washy
Washy
washy said:
The knurled bits (adjusters) could be blue if they're the later NTR damper.
Sorry they are blue on mine too, I was getting confused with the spring perch. I'm running mine 7 clicks from full soft and they are fine for day to day use. Better than the originals actually.
>> Edited by basil brush on Wednesday 12th November 14:40
basil brush said:
I'm running mine 7 clicks from full soft and they are fine for day to day use. Better than the originals actually.
Just as an aside, you should use fully hard as your reference point, since any variation between dampers will result in them having different 'soft' settings but they will all be exactly equal on the fully hard setting.
GreenV8S said:
I'm running mine 7 clicks from full soft and they are fine for day to day use. Better than the originals actually.
Just as an aside, you should use fully hard as your reference point, since any variation between dampers will result in them having different 'soft' settings but they will all be exactly equal on the fully hard setting.
If they all have the same number of clicks from hard to soft is that not the same?
Graham said:
Does anyone (Joospeed?) know if fitting Nitrons would make much difference to a Tuscan S?
im fairly sure joolz has done and tuscan S give him a call
G
All true, but keep trying him if he doesn't answer straight away - he's moving to new premises and might be in 'the other one' when you call.
I'm not looking to upgrade at the moment, so won't bother Jules while he's moving. I was just curious as to whether fitting Nitrons will improve a new S as well as an earlier standard Tuscan, as I know the suspension has been updated since the Tuscan was released.
If it does, then I may well give him a call once I save a few more pennies!
If it does, then I may well give him a call once I save a few more pennies!
The tuscan S addressed many iof the problems with the tuscan handling, the aero pack particularly reducing the non-aero tuscan's alarming ability to swap ends as you approached the end of 3rd gear, exactly when you don't want it!!! yikes. Colin Blower said to me "I have no confidence in this chassis whatsoever", so that probably tells you all you need to know of the early cars...
The S is different, but like all non-adjustable set-ups it's still a compromise, ie it will be too stiff at the raer relative to the front for one-up and light fuel load, because it has to be able to cope still with two-up and full fuel and two suitcases in the boot.
If you want to address these deficiencies in teh basic package you really can only do it with adjustable suspension, and if best value is your concern why not go for something excellent at half the cost of ohlins? .. the nitron is the one to go for.
The S is different, but like all non-adjustable set-ups it's still a compromise, ie it will be too stiff at the raer relative to the front for one-up and light fuel load, because it has to be able to cope still with two-up and full fuel and two suitcases in the boot.
If you want to address these deficiencies in teh basic package you really can only do it with adjustable suspension, and if best value is your concern why not go for something excellent at half the cost of ohlins? .. the nitron is the one to go for.
I had a bloke call me the other day who was ready willing and able to spend the money on a set of nitrons .. his problem? .. that whenever he floored the throttle the rear tyres lit up and he went nowhere fast, now a suspension kit could cure a little part of that, but with 360 odd bhp you're always going to find wheelspin on damp tarmac at this time of year, so i pointed him in the direction of Racelogic for traction control. Kits like Nitrons are good but you can't defy the laws of physics, 360bhp, damp tarmac and cold tyres really needs traction control if your main goal in life is to accelerate past traffic on the dual carriageway.
tuscanraider said:
I am on a really tight budget at the moment but would like to improve the traction and handling of my car especially coming into bad weather what could i do with about £1500 or will i need to save up. I have a Y reg tuscan with 18" spiders please advise (joospeed)
how do you define a really tight budget? you can improve traction by making the rear softer, you can improve handling by making the front stiffer. You can improve both by doing both .. costs increase of course. If you have only a few hundred pounds to spend I'd suggest a driving course specifically aimed at poor driving conditions, after that save some money up and go for a suspension kit, but try to get the whole car done. Only after you've learned how your car can be made to go faster can you assess exactly what it is you need from the suspension, that way we get the right kit of the nine I have that suits you best (or any other indie with that sort of range too).
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