Chassis Question
Discussion
Hey everyone...
Looking at a few Tuscans i can see spots of rust on most. Wanted to ask a few questions:
What should i be looking for specifically chassis wise? By now most of the older Tuscans will have spots of rust?
How do i check for Waxoil look like on the Chassis?
Any tips/parts that i should be looking for/at?
Thanks in advance people
Brad
Looking at a few Tuscans i can see spots of rust on most. Wanted to ask a few questions:
What should i be looking for specifically chassis wise? By now most of the older Tuscans will have spots of rust?
How do i check for Waxoil look like on the Chassis?
Any tips/parts that i should be looking for/at?
Thanks in advance people
Brad
Good to hear you looking at Tuscan's.........Wise Decision, but I'm very biased.
Basically, most tuscans should still have a pretty reasonable chassis on them. Non of them are really old enough to have any major chassis corrosion. The worst place the corrosion should be evident (You won't be able to see unless you have access to a ramp) is next to the exhaust manifold and cats. The heat that the cats give off is enough to cause the powdercoating to fail/come off. This is the first area I'd take a close look at on a Tuscan Chassis. What year car are you looking at ??????
Waxoil treatment is basically an application of wax, which protects the chassis due to it being waterproof and prevents the water settling in any areas and causing corrosion. It'll be easy to see if the chassis has been waxoiled at it will feel like bees wax and you can rub it off with a cloth, and underneath you should see the grey TVR Powder Coating. The waxoil attracts road dust, and the chassis can look filthy to look at, but under the waxoil it should be good.



















Remember, it's easier to rebuild an engine, than take the body off for a chassis rebuild. So even if the car has a rebuilt engine, steer clear if the chassis is bad.
This car had been waxoiled from new, and looked quite dirty, but with the waxoil removed and the fact that the car was never intentionally taken out in the rain from new, it shows. I removed the waxoil, any stone chips were taken back to bare matal, CureRust applied, and then touched up with a matching paint.
Where abouts is the rust on the car that your looking at............. and is the powder coating flaking ??????
Basically, most tuscans should still have a pretty reasonable chassis on them. Non of them are really old enough to have any major chassis corrosion. The worst place the corrosion should be evident (You won't be able to see unless you have access to a ramp) is next to the exhaust manifold and cats. The heat that the cats give off is enough to cause the powdercoating to fail/come off. This is the first area I'd take a close look at on a Tuscan Chassis. What year car are you looking at ??????
Waxoil treatment is basically an application of wax, which protects the chassis due to it being waterproof and prevents the water settling in any areas and causing corrosion. It'll be easy to see if the chassis has been waxoiled at it will feel like bees wax and you can rub it off with a cloth, and underneath you should see the grey TVR Powder Coating. The waxoil attracts road dust, and the chassis can look filthy to look at, but under the waxoil it should be good.



















Remember, it's easier to rebuild an engine, than take the body off for a chassis rebuild. So even if the car has a rebuilt engine, steer clear if the chassis is bad.
This car had been waxoiled from new, and looked quite dirty, but with the waxoil removed and the fact that the car was never intentionally taken out in the rain from new, it shows. I removed the waxoil, any stone chips were taken back to bare matal, CureRust applied, and then touched up with a matching paint.
Where abouts is the rust on the car that your looking at............. and is the powder coating flaking ??????
Edited by Jim Green on Wednesday 22 April 02:00
Edited by Jim Green on Wednesday 22 April 02:02
Ok wow... Your tuscan looks brand new...
The few i have looked at show rust spots all over parts of the chassis / on the tubing so have stayed clear. I can see that rust around the bolt joins is expected but not on the actual tubing if its a good one... Years i have been looking at are 2000 to around 2002/3
Thanks for explaining what Waxoil is and how to check for it.
From reading previous posts chassis repairs seem mighty expensive...
The few i have looked at show rust spots all over parts of the chassis / on the tubing so have stayed clear. I can see that rust around the bolt joins is expected but not on the actual tubing if its a good one... Years i have been looking at are 2000 to around 2002/3
Thanks for explaining what Waxoil is and how to check for it.
From reading previous posts chassis repairs seem mighty expensive...
If it's just slight surface rust then it's not really a problem and some hard work and as the other posts say, it can be brought back to very good condition.
The areas around the suspension bolts always have slight surface rust as prior to the chassis going to powder coating the factory taped around those areas in order to prevent that area being powder coated. Failure to do this would have resulting in the bolts becoming loose once they had worn away the power coating. I always clean and then spray these areas with waxoil to prevent the moisture getting to the bare metal.
Surface rust = OK
Corrosion = Not Good.
The areas around the suspension bolts always have slight surface rust as prior to the chassis going to powder coating the factory taped around those areas in order to prevent that area being powder coated. Failure to do this would have resulting in the bolts becoming loose once they had worn away the power coating. I always clean and then spray these areas with waxoil to prevent the moisture getting to the bare metal.
Surface rust = OK
Corrosion = Not Good.
Edited by Jim Green on Wednesday 22 April 22:02
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