True rebuild costs?
Discussion
Ok so me doing my usual nosing around, i like to look at other cars for sale etc
From looking at most the cost of an engine rebuild seems to vary. I was looking at one on fleabay and his 4.3 engine rebuild was like over 12k. When i look on TVR Powers website i can see a cost of 7k.
Im confused...
From looking at most the cost of an engine rebuild seems to vary. I was looking at one on fleabay and his 4.3 engine rebuild was like over 12k. When i look on TVR Powers website i can see a cost of 7k.
Im confused...
BDM said:
Ok so me doing my usual nosing around, i like to look at other cars for sale etc
From looking at most the cost of an engine rebuild seems to vary. I was looking at one on fleabay and his 4.3 engine rebuild was like over 12k. When i look on TVR Powers website i can see a cost of 7k.
Im confused...
is this for the speed 6 engine? increasing cc?From looking at most the cost of an engine rebuild seems to vary. I was looking at one on fleabay and his 4.3 engine rebuild was like over 12k. When i look on TVR Powers website i can see a cost of 7k.
Im confused...
i have seen various prices too
think the question is: what kind of rebuild former to were you'll have it done
top end, full rebuild, full rebuild and upgrade to 4.3
what i've seen is a top end rebuild between 3-4 k
full rebuild between 6-7 k
upgrade to 4.3 or 4.7 ++++
do a lot of work yourself and you can cut costs (take engine out etc)
rens
think the question is: what kind of rebuild former to were you'll have it done
top end, full rebuild, full rebuild and upgrade to 4.3
what i've seen is a top end rebuild between 3-4 k
full rebuild between 6-7 k
upgrade to 4.3 or 4.7 ++++
do a lot of work yourself and you can cut costs (take engine out etc)
rens
from what i have heard is that you have to look closely to your valve clearances
keep them on the max
keep the oil topped up to the max and allways use the car with the right warm-up procedure
once the valve clearance gets to tight and your on the max you can do with other tappets it can be an issue of days that your engine will suffecate
it's an easy yob or let your mecanic check it every time
the difference between beiing on time and to late is top-end or total rebuild
and when you need a total rebuild it's a matter of failure of common sense or an overfilled wallet what your going to have done to the engine
rens
keep them on the max
keep the oil topped up to the max and allways use the car with the right warm-up procedure
once the valve clearance gets to tight and your on the max you can do with other tappets it can be an issue of days that your engine will suffecate
it's an easy yob or let your mecanic check it every time
the difference between beiing on time and to late is top-end or total rebuild
and when you need a total rebuild it's a matter of failure of common sense or an overfilled wallet what your going to have done to the engine
rens
The 7k + VAT for a 4.3 is a complete re-build, and includes numerous new components to a much higher specification than was factory fitted, including higher spec Cams.
If yours is an S version, then that’s it, if not add injectors, and possible a higher spec starter motor. Best bet is speak to Dom, he is VERY strait forward in his explanation.
He did tell me the Crank and Rods for a 4.3 cost TVR power over 2K alone.
So, don’t be put off, for a 4.3 your paying just under 3K just for the Crank and Rods, the rest is similar to a normal re-build. Also, you get a bespoke mapping RR session, which is fun!
Last time I was there, Dom showed me a Sp 6 engine which the owner had pretty much let it destroy itself, the 10 figure sum would be to replace everything, Block, head, pistons etc etc.
If yours is an S version, then that’s it, if not add injectors, and possible a higher spec starter motor. Best bet is speak to Dom, he is VERY strait forward in his explanation.
He did tell me the Crank and Rods for a 4.3 cost TVR power over 2K alone.
So, don’t be put off, for a 4.3 your paying just under 3K just for the Crank and Rods, the rest is similar to a normal re-build. Also, you get a bespoke mapping RR session, which is fun!
Last time I was there, Dom showed me a Sp 6 engine which the owner had pretty much let it destroy itself, the 10 figure sum would be to replace everything, Block, head, pistons etc etc.
rens914 said:
from what i have heard is that you have to look closely to your valve clearances
keep them on the max
keep the oil topped up to the max and allways use the car with the right warm-up procedure
once the valve clearance gets to tight and your on the max you can do with other tappets it can be an issue of days that your engine will suffecate
it's an easy yob or let your mecanic check it every time
the difference between beiing on time and to late is top-end or total rebuild
and when you need a total rebuild it's a matter of failure of common sense or an overfilled wallet what your going to have done to the engine
rens
So I assume if you are getting it serviced by a decent garage then they should be able to forewarn you if your engine is getting close to the limits?keep them on the max
keep the oil topped up to the max and allways use the car with the right warm-up procedure
once the valve clearance gets to tight and your on the max you can do with other tappets it can be an issue of days that your engine will suffecate
it's an easy yob or let your mecanic check it every time
the difference between beiing on time and to late is top-end or total rebuild
and when you need a total rebuild it's a matter of failure of common sense or an overfilled wallet what your going to have done to the engine
rens
I would hope that any garage familiar with Speed 6's would check this every time - right?
I would be annoyed if I needed to spend more than necessary on a rebuild, but I would be even more annoyed if I had recently spent £500 on a service and then needed to spend lots on a rebuild!!
it all depends on how you drive your car an how often (how many miles a year)
you yust can't say that if you drive only 1k miles a year you'll need only 1 inspection in 6 years
don't laugh
there are people who think like this
even with 1 k a year you'll need at least 1 inspection (and oilchange etc) per year
and when they adjust the clearance be sure your there and they adjust it to the max
rens
you yust can't say that if you drive only 1k miles a year you'll need only 1 inspection in 6 years
don't laugh
there are people who think like this
even with 1 k a year you'll need at least 1 inspection (and oilchange etc) per year
and when they adjust the clearance be sure your there and they adjust it to the max
rens
Even a specialist would struggle to give you an accurate healthcheck of your engine without stripping it. For instance - high oil consumption on my engine - without taking the head off its pretty tough to diagnose from a one off inspection.
Not all rebuilds are equal, a full rebuild at TVR power is different to what might be termed a full rebuild at Str8 six for instance. The difference is in the marketing! Components used may be different, quality may be different etc.
Speaking from recent experience, a full rebuild with all the latest mods would take you to around £8-£8.5k. But - in order to understand that cost, and to prevent someone coming along to say 'thats cobblers' you need to break down the component costs.
IMO the term 'full rebuild' varies widly from a couple of bearings replaced bottom end to complete new hardware.
My car had apparently had a 'full rebuild' when in fact i have since found out it had simply had the finger followers, cam shafts replaced and main bearing replaced
Not all rebuilds are equal, a full rebuild at TVR power is different to what might be termed a full rebuild at Str8 six for instance. The difference is in the marketing! Components used may be different, quality may be different etc.
Speaking from recent experience, a full rebuild with all the latest mods would take you to around £8-£8.5k. But - in order to understand that cost, and to prevent someone coming along to say 'thats cobblers' you need to break down the component costs.
IMO the term 'full rebuild' varies widly from a couple of bearings replaced bottom end to complete new hardware.
My car had apparently had a 'full rebuild' when in fact i have since found out it had simply had the finger followers, cam shafts replaced and main bearing replaced
What makes you say the tappets need to set to the maximum value? I know some engines suffer with valve seat recession and valve stretch but if the tappets are within the recommended settings surely they should be fine? Mine is set within the recommended values, having heard of a lot of shims coming out of their seats and getting lost in the engine I make sure the tappets never go over the recommend values.
Noisy said:
What makes you say the tappets need to set to the maximum value? I know some engines suffer with valve seat recession and valve stretch but if the tappets are within the recommended settings surely they should be fine? Mine is set within the recommended values, having heard of a lot of shims coming out of their seats and getting lost in the engine I make sure the tappets never go over the recommend values.
inlet is 15 but set on max is 20outlet is 25 but set on max is 30
rens
rens914 said:
Noisy said:
What makes you say the tappets need to set to the maximum value? I know some engines suffer with valve seat recession and valve stretch but if the tappets are within the recommended settings surely they should be fine? Mine is set within the recommended values, having heard of a lot of shims coming out of their seats and getting lost in the engine I make sure the tappets never go over the recommend values.
inlet is 15 but set on max is 20outlet is 25 but set on max is 30
rens
because of ware it can only get less
inlet should be between 15-20. so put them on 20 when you're on the yob
if you set them on 15 (inlet) you can only go to 10 or worse
with the outlet the problem is even bigger
if the outlet is to thight the engine can get warm and the valves can burn (is that proper english ?)
rens
inlet should be between 15-20. so put them on 20 when you're on the yob
if you set them on 15 (inlet) you can only go to 10 or worse
with the outlet the problem is even bigger
if the outlet is to thight the engine can get warm and the valves can burn (is that proper english ?)
rens
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