Revs sticking when engine is hot.

[S6 Devil]

Just been out for a blast and found that when the engine is hot and I come to a stop the revs tend to stay at 2000 and then slowly come down to around 800. If i pull the accelerator back with my toes (was driving barefoot) the revs drop as they should. Any ideas what is sticking and what to lubricate or adjust?

[rens914]

renew the trottle cable
rens

[Whitey]

before it breaks.

[S6 Devil]

Being a mechanical numpty is this an easy job? If yes and it looks like it should be, any pointers on how to do it?

[so called]

If your Tuscan has been sat a lot, this could be corrosion on the bushings of the throttle pedal pivot.
My Mk1 had this problem when I first got her.

[S6 Devil]

Thanks for the replies. So called, What did you do to fix it?

[Whitey]

or throttle return spring binding

[so called]

S6 Devil said:

Thanks for the replies. So called, What did you do to fix it?

It was just a case of spray with WD40 and work the peddles..
I spoke with a workshop at the time who told me that they have changed bushes in the past but I just lubricated and worked them free. They improved over a two week period and were never a problem again.

[S6 Devil]

Thanks, Will try the WD40 first and see if that fixes it!

[S6 Devil]

Well, I have had the throttle cable changed and sprayed the pivot with WD40 but it now seems worse. When I change from 3rd to 4th, the revs don't come down and when I come to a stop the revs stay at 2000. I have to pull the accelerator back with my toes. Any ideas?

[RM75]

If you have ruled out the throttle cable all I can suggest is the spring that closes the throttles. When I got my car I found an "out of place" looking spring... http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...

It seemed to be helping close the throttles. In this picture you can see the main spring (running vertically) that I'm talking about.



Maybe see if it all looks OK on yours? Not sure if this will help but thought I'd mention it!

[Whitey]

Did whoever changed the cable not test it? Could be a couple of other things not already mentioned ie sticking throttle butterflies etc but likely to be cable or rrturn spring.

[tuscan_al]

Also where the cable feeds through the grommet in the pedal box can be a sticking point, if its pinched up or at a bad angle.

[S6 Devil]

Thanks for the replies.
We did test it when it was changed and it seemed fine. I then dove halfway home and the problem started, so I went back. We lubricated the pivot bushings and things seemed to be loosening up so we left the peddle box cover loose so I can keep lubricating and working it, it may just need a little more working. The return spring may have weakened so packing it with a few washers may be the next option. I will keep working the pedal loose then try the other ideas mentioned. Many thanks, Mike

p.s no "out of place" springs that I can see, thanks.

Edited by S6 Devil on Friday 11th September 09:23

[Bob the Planner]

Had the same problem and slowly getting worse. The local jag garage have rebuilt the peddle box as it was a tad corroded. It may need another small washer as the pedals are now a bit slack but its better than it has been in the last couple of years. It may have been the sea trip of 7 weeks that added to the corrosion but she is running preddy damned good now. Well worth the A$800 to get it sorted - even put the box back with stainless bolts so that they will not be corroded next time (they may still be mashed at the bottom due to grounding though !)

[da_murphster]

Just found this thread....

My car has been left outside and undriven for 3 weeks and now I am suffering from pedal sticking as well (was fine before).

Its it likely to be ressolved by spraying WD40 somewhere in the pedal box?? (please say yes!)

BTW she started first time (just) - pretty happy with that waws expecting to have to dig out the jump leads!

[S6 Devil]

I had the throttle cable changed which made no difference. I then removed the peddle box, cleaned everything up and sprayed with Wurth lubricant, WD40 would do the job. I then drove it for a week or so and kept respraying. Problem solved!

Just be careful where you spray as I gunked the brake microswitch so the brake lights stayed on constantly. It was a b1tch to remove and refit.

[da_murphster]

S6 Devil said:

I had the throttle cable changed which made no difference. I then removed the peddle box, cleaned everything up and sprayed with Wurth lubricant, WD40 would do the job. I then drove it for a week or so and kept respraying. Problem solved!

Just be careful where you spray as I gunked the brake microswitch so the brake lights stayed on constantly. It was a b1tch to remove and refit.

What exactly am I spraying? What is it that was sticking? Can I do it without removing the pedal box?

What should I be avoiding? Is the brake micro switch obvious?

[S6 Devil]

da_murphster said:

S6 Devil said:

I had the throttle cable changed which made no difference. I then removed the peddle box, cleaned everything up and sprayed with Wurth lubricant, WD40 would do the job. I then drove it for a week or so and kept respraying. Problem solved!

Just be careful where you spray as I gunked the brake microswitch so the brake lights stayed on constantly. It was a b1tch to remove and refit.

What exactly am I spraying? What is it that was sticking? Can I do it without removing the pedal box?

What should I be avoiding? Is the brake micro switch obvious?

You need to spray the pivot and all moving parts on the accelerator assembly e.g the bar at the bottom. Taking the peddle box off is very easy, three bolts at the base and two or three rubber covered bolts at the top. It makes the job so much easier.
The microswitch is obvious once you have the box off but hard to see with it on.

Edited by S6 Devil on Tuesday 17th November 12:52