Tuscan Engine Poll
Poll: Tuscan Engine Poll
Total Members Polled: 93
Discussion
I know this has been covered lots of times before, but just to complete the graph: mine is a 2002 registered 51 plate 4.0 Tuscan with just over 54k miles and no rebuilds. I do know I have an oil leak from the head gasket but that won't get sorted until the engine neds rebuilding or something else happens. I was using my Tuscan as a daily driver for about a year and a half in my last but one job and was covering 450 miles per week on mixed motorway and A/B roads. I'm now not using it much but is has spent 3 days at the Nurburgring and has taken part in 4 other track days (162mph indicated!).
Zippee said:
There is a couple of fatal flaws in your survey;
4.0 vs 3.6?
What year is the car? You may have a huge number showing fails at, say, 10k but they may all be very early cars thus putting anyone off later higher mileage models.
I know, but I think you only have 10 options on the poll. Initially I tired doing Tuscan 1 and Tuscan 2, however the graph justs adds them to a seperate bar which does not make any sence.4.0 vs 3.6?
What year is the car? You may have a huge number showing fails at, say, 10k but they may all be very early cars thus putting anyone off later higher mileage models.
Rebuilt after snapped rod 
Had 14000 UK Track miles, Ring 25, Spa and Zolder all flat out, engine total miles 20k
Rebuilt by Dreadnought Racing TVR - And still the quickest Tuscan out here
Another interesting thing all the sp6 cars that were serviced from new at Dreadnought bar 1 had engine failure, good after care service or luck.
They say the 2 most important things for the 6 unit is the right oil and valve clearances. Sometinng alot of dealers failed on.
I don't really see why you need new improved block, head and all the other crap these other engine guys do , no idea
i would think for some out there it brings some peace of mind ?
Yes to the rods they are crap, yes to fingers yes to oil pump and multi layer head gasket but sorry the rest is , well totally unnecessary and they see you all coming sorry .
If it’s a good car with good owners and good service history all should be fine.
If it's a multi owner dog from the start get rid of it , It's going to take you down
My rule for speed six units
1/ Castrol Magntec
2/ Prolong oil additive.
Used on the race cars and it really does work (weird stuff)
3/Never supermarket fuel - ever
4/Warm you baby up before going hard
5/Get valve clearances done regularly
And that’s it, Happy driving
Or see u at Zolder
Had 14000 UK Track miles, Ring 25, Spa and Zolder all flat out, engine total miles 20k Rebuilt by Dreadnought Racing TVR - And still the quickest Tuscan out here
Another interesting thing all the sp6 cars that were serviced from new at Dreadnought bar 1 had engine failure, good after care service or luck.
They say the 2 most important things for the 6 unit is the right oil and valve clearances. Sometinng alot of dealers failed on.
I don't really see why you need new improved block, head and all the other crap these other engine guys do , no idea
i would think for some out there it brings some peace of mind ?Yes to the rods they are crap, yes to fingers yes to oil pump and multi layer head gasket but sorry the rest is , well totally unnecessary and they see you all coming sorry .
If it’s a good car with good owners and good service history all should be fine.
If it's a multi owner dog from the start get rid of it , It's going to take you down
My rule for speed six units
1/ Castrol Magntec
2/ Prolong oil additive.
Used on the race cars and it really does work (weird stuff)
3/Never supermarket fuel - ever
4/Warm you baby up before going hard
5/Get valve clearances done regularly
And that’s it, Happy driving
Or see u at Zolder
YAHOO said:
My rule for speed six units
1/ Castrol Magntec
2/ Prolong oil additive.
Used on the race cars and it really does work (weird stuff)
3/Never supermarket fuel - ever
4/Warm you baby up before going hard
5/Get valve clearances done regularly
Hey mate,1/ Castrol Magntec
2/ Prolong oil additive.
Used on the race cars and it really does work (weird stuff)
3/Never supermarket fuel - ever
4/Warm you baby up before going hard
5/Get valve clearances done regularly
Where do i get Prolong Oil Additive and do i just mix with normal oil?
Lastly supermarket fuel e.g. dont go tescos etc? How come out of interest... Am i missing something?
if i google prolong oil additive i see a lot of things that make me worry
they have lost a law suite for about 20million
the things they say the additive can do aren't proven
specific : they had to pay money to users of he product for bringing damage to their engines
they compare the product with other products (for instance slick 50) wich are off the market now.
this doesnt make me run to the shop to get it in order to put it in my engine.
rens
i do think that :
a proper warm up procedure
good engine oil
good tappet clearance
will prolong the life of your engine
they have lost a law suite for about 20million
the things they say the additive can do aren't proven
specific : they had to pay money to users of he product for bringing damage to their engines
they compare the product with other products (for instance slick 50) wich are off the market now.
this doesnt make me run to the shop to get it in order to put it in my engine.
rens
i do think that :
a proper warm up procedure
good engine oil
good tappet clearance
will prolong the life of your engine
rens914 said:
if i google prolong oil additive i see a lot of things that make me worry
they have lost a law suite for about 20million
the things they say the additive can do aren't proven
specific : they had to pay money to users of he product for bringing damage to their engines
I also read that but the owners were running with no oil as in there add campaign, americans they have lost a law suite for about 20million
the things they say the additive can do aren't proven
specific : they had to pay money to users of he product for bringing damage to their engines
We had a holed oil cooler on the race car, lost all the oil and no damage to engine when checked at end of year also a friend spun a shell on his cosworth engine and no damage to crank ,
And yes I think most of the slick 50 stuff is crap but for us personally we find this great stuff
BDM said:
YAHOO said:
My rule for speed six units
1/ Castrol Magntec
2/ Prolong oil additive.
Used on the race cars and it really does work (weird stuff)
3/Never supermarket fuel - ever
4/Warm you baby up before going hard
5/Get valve clearances done regularly
Hey mate,1/ Castrol Magntec
2/ Prolong oil additive.
Used on the race cars and it really does work (weird stuff)
3/Never supermarket fuel - ever
4/Warm you baby up before going hard
5/Get valve clearances done regularly
Where do i get Prolong Oil Additive and do i just mix with normal oil?
Lastly supermarket fuel e.g. dont go tescos etc? How come out of interest... Am i missing something?
The only difference is in the additives put in before it is sold, such as detergents etc.
Tankers also dump fuel in other tanks such as tescos-shell and Vic versa I think Optimax is the only one that is not contaminated from other tanker dumb offs
Supermarket fuels will cause valve build up and on the sp6 unit that is probably the last thing you would want.
There has been much debate on this issue before; if you use the forum search option im sure you will find dozens of threads
Another thing try a full tank of supermarket fuel in your car and then the same with Shell ,do similar run and see how many more miles you get on the Shell.
You might find it balances out the price difference and you will have a clean healthy engine . If im wrong
Your saving 40p a fillup
Edited by YAHOO on Friday 18th September 10:07
Edited by YAHOO on Friday 18th September 10:09
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