Geometry settings
Discussion
After getting the Tuscan's geo set up by an expert, it feels much better.
The shocks fitted aren't up to the job, according to the expert. They're Gaz Golds - and the main problem is at the rear where the travel is not enough - to get the correct ride height the shocks are too near their bump stops.
However, the car does feel much, MUCH better than before.
For reference, here are the geo settings he ended up with:
front camber 1.25 degrees negative
front toe 10 minutes toe in overall
rear camber 2.25 degrees negative
rear toe 15 minutes both sides.
This may change slightly I guess when I change the shocks.
Andy.
The shocks fitted aren't up to the job, according to the expert. They're Gaz Golds - and the main problem is at the rear where the travel is not enough - to get the correct ride height the shocks are too near their bump stops.
However, the car does feel much, MUCH better than before.
For reference, here are the geo settings he ended up with:
front camber 1.25 degrees negative
front toe 10 minutes toe in overall
rear camber 2.25 degrees negative
rear toe 15 minutes both sides.
This may change slightly I guess when I change the shocks.
Andy.
Derek did mine when he was working out of TorqueRVT in Cheshire but I understood that he returned to his native south of Watford.
He replaced my shocks and springs and set up the geometry. His work completely transformed my Tuscan(RIP).
I dont know where he is now but he used to read these pages so......
DEREK are you out there ???
He replaced my shocks and springs and set up the geometry. His work completely transformed my Tuscan(RIP).
I dont know where he is now but he used to read these pages so......
DEREK are you out there ???
I'm still about and my gear is down in Barking at DT Motorsport and I do help him out (particularly when the rear adjusters need replacing) LOL
Also, Simon at Levens is another option worth considering.
I notice the previous comments about ride height and travel and can only say that Gaz were produced to operate at just below standard ride height but with adjustable spring platforms you can in theory drop the car untill it sits on the bumpstops, that sort of height doesn't make it right on handling though but I could modify them to run a bit lower if requested.
I also note that on a post earlier a car was set up with standard front end geo of 1.25 degrees neg camber with 10min of toe in, which is OK for a road car but 2.25 degrees of neg camber on the rear is more like you would use with radial slicks, 1.5 degrees of neg camber with about 3mm (25mins)toe in is more usual on road tyres.
Also, Simon at Levens is another option worth considering.
I notice the previous comments about ride height and travel and can only say that Gaz were produced to operate at just below standard ride height but with adjustable spring platforms you can in theory drop the car untill it sits on the bumpstops, that sort of height doesn't make it right on handling though but I could modify them to run a bit lower if requested.
I also note that on a post earlier a car was set up with standard front end geo of 1.25 degrees neg camber with 10min of toe in, which is OK for a road car but 2.25 degrees of neg camber on the rear is more like you would use with radial slicks, 1.5 degrees of neg camber with about 3mm (25mins)toe in is more usual on road tyres.
Edited by Ab Shocks on Thursday 5th November 18:29
This was what someone posted some time ago for setting of a 4.0 Mk1.
FRONT:
toe-in: 4 min per wheel, 8 min total
camber: -1 (per wheel)
REAR:
toe-in: 12 min per wheel, 24 min total
camber: -1,5 (per wheel)
Andy - I'd be interested to see what your tyre wear is like on those rears!
Mine is set up as above but I still feel that the front needs more negative camber and poss toe-in to stop the dancing about. I've got newish Chinese manufactured Eagle F1s on the front so I'm kind of hanging in there in case the softer sidewalls on these tyres is the real issue.
My rear tyres are due a change - they have worn very evenly (Mich Pilot Sports). I've been reading up recently and am thinking of putting on rear tyres with a mix of compounds. Apparently some of the more expensive Pirellis etc have a harder compound on the insides to cope with negative camber but a softer compound on the outer edges to provide more grip when the car rolls over onto its full tyre width in a corner - makes sense to me!
Any recommendations?
Al
FRONT:
toe-in: 4 min per wheel, 8 min total
camber: -1 (per wheel)
REAR:
toe-in: 12 min per wheel, 24 min total
camber: -1,5 (per wheel)
Andy - I'd be interested to see what your tyre wear is like on those rears!
Mine is set up as above but I still feel that the front needs more negative camber and poss toe-in to stop the dancing about. I've got newish Chinese manufactured Eagle F1s on the front so I'm kind of hanging in there in case the softer sidewalls on these tyres is the real issue.
My rear tyres are due a change - they have worn very evenly (Mich Pilot Sports). I've been reading up recently and am thinking of putting on rear tyres with a mix of compounds. Apparently some of the more expensive Pirellis etc have a harder compound on the insides to cope with negative camber but a softer compound on the outer edges to provide more grip when the car rolls over onto its full tyre width in a corner - makes sense to me!
Any recommendations?
Al
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