GAS SHOCKS SETTINGS
Discussion
I had some fitted about 8 weeks ago and I think that they were set at about 12 clockwise from fully off.
But I've got a problem now as I just drove to Germany and with the load in the boot found the near side gap between wheel arch and tyre is less than the off side such that evertime I hit a dip in the road my tyre was catching.
I tried stiffening up but it made no difference ?
Anyway, It was at about 12 at the back and 16 at the front.
But I've got a problem now as I just drove to Germany and with the load in the boot found the near side gap between wheel arch and tyre is less than the off side such that evertime I hit a dip in the road my tyre was catching.
I tried stiffening up but it made no difference ?
Anyway, It was at about 12 at the back and 16 at the front.
I have Gaz Gold Pro's just fitted to my Cerb and have the same question.
I turned the damper dial +/- all the way to the left (- setting) then moved it to the right(+setting) by 6 clicks for the rear, I don't think this is the best setting and would be interested to see what others have.
I turned the damper dial +/- all the way to the left (- setting) then moved it to the right(+setting) by 6 clicks for the rear, I don't think this is the best setting and would be interested to see what others have.
I have the Gaz Gold Pros and currently have 12 on the rear with 10 on the front, suits my style fine.
My advice is start with 10 on the rear and 8 on the front and see how it feels and go from there.
Funnily enough David Batty set the ride height... and set tension ot the shocks... when I picked it up he said to me I have set them 10 at the rear and 8 at the front but from talking to you about how you drive it I think you will nedd 12 at the rear and 10 at the front..... anyway on the way home decided it was too bouncy and have been 12 back and 10 front ever since, Mr Batty right again!
My advice is start with 10 on the rear and 8 on the front and see how it feels and go from there.
Funnily enough David Batty set the ride height... and set tension ot the shocks... when I picked it up he said to me I have set them 10 at the rear and 8 at the front but from talking to you about how you drive it I think you will nedd 12 at the rear and 10 at the front..... anyway on the way home decided it was too bouncy and have been 12 back and 10 front ever since, Mr Batty right again!
I am running 20 on the rear (16 on front) and still bottom on uneven country roads. Ride height looks right so will probably need to higher the zorts or lose weight. It didn't appear to solve the bottoming when I increased the number of clicks. Does anybody know what the max number of clicks is on the Gaz shocks?
Edited by The Tivster on Wednesday 26th May 18:57
OK, this is a thread hi-jack but here goes...........
I often see threads about shocks (or more properly, dampers) and see comments about altering the settings to reduce spring travel, and I don't get it.
In my mind, the spring has a certain resistance to compression, which causes it to recoil. Compression stores energy, and the release of energy results in a hysteresis effect which shows as oscilations; the purpose of the damper is to stop that oscillation i.e when the spring recoils it returns to its normally compressed length without further compression/extension cycles.
I can therefore understand that increasing the damping effect will stop the oscillation causing a wallowing feeling i.e make it feel less "flexible", but I nwouldn't have thought it should be able to reduce the amount by which the spring compresses under load. To reduce the amount by which the spring compresses under load I would have expected a stronger spring.
As said, trying to get my head around it with logic, not trying to teach anyone to suck eggs..
Ok - flameproof suit on...........
I often see threads about shocks (or more properly, dampers) and see comments about altering the settings to reduce spring travel, and I don't get it.
In my mind, the spring has a certain resistance to compression, which causes it to recoil. Compression stores energy, and the release of energy results in a hysteresis effect which shows as oscilations; the purpose of the damper is to stop that oscillation i.e when the spring recoils it returns to its normally compressed length without further compression/extension cycles.
I can therefore understand that increasing the damping effect will stop the oscillation causing a wallowing feeling i.e make it feel less "flexible", but I nwouldn't have thought it should be able to reduce the amount by which the spring compresses under load. To reduce the amount by which the spring compresses under load I would have expected a stronger spring.
As said, trying to get my head around it with logic, not trying to teach anyone to suck eggs..
Ok - flameproof suit on...........
The Tivster said:
I am running 20 on the rear (16 on front) and still bottom on uneven country roads. Ride height looks right so will probably need to higher the zorts or lose weight. It didn't appear to solve the bottoming when I increased the number of clicks. Does anybody know what the max number of clicks is on the Gaz shocks?
Highly likely that you have Gaz Golds and not Gaz Gold Pros, IIRC there are half the number of clicks required on the GAZ Gold Pros in comparison to standard Golds... So you would be running on the equivalent on pros of 10 rear and 8 front. Edited by The Tivster on Wednesday 26th May 18:57
Not sure why you are bottoming though... who set them up for you? who did the ride height?
Konrod said:
OK, this is a thread hi-jack but here goes...........
I often see threads about shocks (or more properly, dampers) and see comments about altering the settings to reduce spring travel, and I don't get it.
In my mind, the spring has a certain resistance to compression, which causes it to recoil. Compression stores energy, and the release of energy results in a hysteresis effect which shows as oscilations; the purpose of the damper is to stop that oscillation i.e when the spring recoils it returns to its normally compressed length without further compression/extension cycles.
I can therefore understand that increasing the damping effect will stop the oscillation causing a wallowing feeling i.e make it feel less "flexible", but I nwouldn't have thought it should be able to reduce the amount by which the spring compresses under load. To reduce the amount by which the spring compresses under load I would have expected a stronger spring.
As said, trying to get my head around it with logic, not trying to teach anyone to suck eggs..
Ok - flameproof suit on...........
Stiffnes is related to displacement and damping is related to velocity . Hence the Newtons (modified Law Of Motion)equationI often see threads about shocks (or more properly, dampers) and see comments about altering the settings to reduce spring travel, and I don't get it.
In my mind, the spring has a certain resistance to compression, which causes it to recoil. Compression stores energy, and the release of energy results in a hysteresis effect which shows as oscilations; the purpose of the damper is to stop that oscillation i.e when the spring recoils it returns to its normally compressed length without further compression/extension cycles.
I can therefore understand that increasing the damping effect will stop the oscillation causing a wallowing feeling i.e make it feel less "flexible", but I nwouldn't have thought it should be able to reduce the amount by which the spring compresses under load. To reduce the amount by which the spring compresses under load I would have expected a stronger spring.
As said, trying to get my head around it with logic, not trying to teach anyone to suck eggs..
Ok - flameproof suit on...........
Force = Mass * Acceleration + Damping * Velocity **2 + K (Stiffness) * Displacement
Edited by glow worm on Thursday 27th May 10:33
glow worm said:
Konrod said:
OK, this is a thread hi-jack but here goes...........
I often see threads about shocks (or more properly, dampers) and see comments about altering the settings to reduce spring travel, and I don't get it.
In my mind, the spring has a certain resistance to compression, which causes it to recoil. Compression stores energy, and the release of energy results in a hysteresis effect which shows as oscilations; the purpose of the damper is to stop that oscillation i.e when the spring recoils it returns to its normally compressed length without further compression/extension cycles.
I can therefore understand that increasing the damping effect will stop the oscillation causing a wallowing feeling i.e make it feel less "flexible", but I nwouldn't have thought it should be able to reduce the amount by which the spring compresses under load. To reduce the amount by which the spring compresses under load I would have expected a stronger spring.
As said, trying to get my head around it with logic, not trying to teach anyone to suck eggs..
Ok - flameproof suit on...........
Stiffnes is related to displacement and damping is related to velocity . Hence the Newtons (modified Law Of Motion)equationI often see threads about shocks (or more properly, dampers) and see comments about altering the settings to reduce spring travel, and I don't get it.
In my mind, the spring has a certain resistance to compression, which causes it to recoil. Compression stores energy, and the release of energy results in a hysteresis effect which shows as oscilations; the purpose of the damper is to stop that oscillation i.e when the spring recoils it returns to its normally compressed length without further compression/extension cycles.
I can therefore understand that increasing the damping effect will stop the oscillation causing a wallowing feeling i.e make it feel less "flexible", but I nwouldn't have thought it should be able to reduce the amount by which the spring compresses under load. To reduce the amount by which the spring compresses under load I would have expected a stronger spring.
As said, trying to get my head around it with logic, not trying to teach anyone to suck eggs..
Ok - flameproof suit on...........
Force = Mass * Acceleration + Damping * Velocity **2 + K (Stiffness) * Displacement
Edited by glow worm on Thursday 27th May 10:33
330p4 said:
So called if the height side to side is different you need to adjust the spring seat to get the ride height correct.
Ian
Hi 330p4,Ian
When they were setting them up they measured from chassis to the floor surface and there was a difference at the rear.
I need to speak with Derek who did my Mk1 Tuscan.
Thanks,
Tony.
Does anyone have any reco settings from Nitrons. Just had mine fitted and it is very stiff. So stiff infact that my head hits the roof when gogin over joins in the motorway surface.
Is it worth giving them time to bed in, and if not, how do you adjust them. do you needs then wheels off, and is the adjuster on the side of the shock?
Is it worth giving them time to bed in, and if not, how do you adjust them. do you needs then wheels off, and is the adjuster on the side of the shock?
Curdster said:
Does anyone have any reco settings from Nitrons. Just had mine fitted and it is very stiff. So stiff infact that my head hits the roof when gogin over joins in the motorway surface.
Is it worth giving them time to bed in, and if not, how do you adjust them. do you needs then wheels off, and is the adjuster on the side of the shock?
You might be better off starting a Nitrons Shocks settings thread.Is it worth giving them time to bed in, and if not, how do you adjust them. do you needs then wheels off, and is the adjuster on the side of the shock?
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