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Came yesterday from Zolder. Big traffic jam. Outside temp (hot!) was 36 degrees. Oil temp 100 and water 116 degrees. Has to stop the car. Have a new bigger alu. radiator and 2 fans are running.
Is the maximum of the cooling capicity reached or do i have a problem. No water was lost afterwards and the tank was still full.
Do i have to avoid jams in the future?
Is the maximum of the cooling capicity reached or do i have a problem. No water was lost afterwards and the tank was still full.
Do i have to avoid jams in the future?
Could be the thermostat not fully opening and hence not all the coolant going through the radiator. Normally you should see around a 10 Deg.C drop when the thermostat opens at 82 Deg.C. Have been driving mine around in similar ambients this week and have not seen more than 95 Deg.C on oil or water.
Just checked the thermostat next to a spare one. No differences. Opens fully at 92 degrees.
I have the (new) alu radiator to prevent overheating . Is seems to me that the cooling capacity is marginal for a speed six or is the sensor wrong (giving wrong degrees to the dash)
Before it reached 116 degrees it was changing from 94 degrees to 116 degrees and backwards.
(oil was still high at 100 degrees)
(engine was running at 1200 RPM)
I have the (new) alu radiator to prevent overheating . Is seems to me that the cooling capacity is marginal for a speed six or is the sensor wrong (giving wrong degrees to the dash)
Before it reached 116 degrees it was changing from 94 degrees to 116 degrees and backwards.
(oil was still high at 100 degrees)
(engine was running at 1200 RPM)
ochten said:
Just checked the thermostat next to a spare one. No differences. Opens fully at 92 degrees.
I have the (new) alu radiator to prevent overheating . Is seems to me that the cooling capacity is marginal for a speed six or is the sensor wrong (giving wrong degrees to the dash)
Before it reached 116 degrees it was changing from 94 degrees to 116 degrees and backwards.
(oil was still high at 100 degrees)
(engine was running at 1200 RPM)
Ochten, sound's like the dash sensor has had a funny turn, you can check water temperature via ecu/software for a more accurate reading, not sure the ally radiator is more effective at cooling than a standard one, replaced mine recently and the fan's rarely come on even in ambient temperature's of 30 degree's, maybe worth replacing and bleeding the coolant I have the (new) alu radiator to prevent overheating . Is seems to me that the cooling capacity is marginal for a speed six or is the sensor wrong (giving wrong degrees to the dash)
Before it reached 116 degrees it was changing from 94 degrees to 116 degrees and backwards.
(oil was still high at 100 degrees)
(engine was running at 1200 RPM)
I made a lot of checks yesterday (bleeding the system again etc) and I noticed that the 2 fans not blowing through the radiator but to the direction of the big bonnet! I noticed also that the fan/blades geometry is just the other way round than the old fans I replaced. (I had a front damaged in the past)
It seems that the fans (I ordered the "original"fans through a radiatordealer) have a left and a right version! Never noticed that last year with the lower temperatures outside. Cooling was never an issue. But now...
When I reverse the wires a expect a better situation but with the wrong geometry of the blades not the optimum situation. Or?
It seems that the fans (I ordered the "original"fans through a radiatordealer) have a left and a right version! Never noticed that last year with the lower temperatures outside. Cooling was never an issue. But now...
When I reverse the wires a expect a better situation but with the wrong geometry of the blades not the optimum situation. Or?
Definitely doesn't sound right. I took mine, with new copper and brass rad, down through France and Spain last year with temps in the low 40's and the engine temps managed to stay in the mid 90's.
Re the fans, aren't they supposed to pull air through the radiator and out of the bonnet vents over the car? If they were blowing then they'd be fighting with the airflow when travelling.
Re the fans, aren't they supposed to pull air through the radiator and out of the bonnet vents over the car? If they were blowing then they'd be fighting with the airflow when travelling.
Made today another trip. Somewhat cooler today but again! On the motorway no problem. Water temp between 85 and 90 degrees. But in slow traffic again de temperatures are jumping from 96 till 114 and backwards. De fans (they are now blowing through the radiator) are both running. I let the air out of the system but on the meter is like a big hot airbubble. On the way back no problems still between 84 and 92.
No waterloss and the radiator is new (uprated one) Perhaps a sticking thermostat?
I have an infrared tempaturetool and on the bottomhose was the temp. only 93 degrees. Perhaps a wrong indication from the ECU and the sensors??
No waterloss and the radiator is new (uprated one) Perhaps a sticking thermostat?
I have an infrared tempaturetool and on the bottomhose was the temp. only 93 degrees. Perhaps a wrong indication from the ECU and the sensors??
I think that your temp indication is incorrect.
I had mine checked and know they are showing correct temps.
July last year I went to Spain and during the drive down through central Spain outside temp was hanging around 39°C till about 14:00 then went up to 57°C through an area of forest fire before dropping back to 40°.
During the earlier temp the engine temp was hanging around 89°C (I also had a leeky radiator) but increased to to be around 98° through the fires and staying around 96°with fans running constantly for the rest of the drive.
Did the same drive this year but a month earlier (just got back) and the outside temp was hanging around 34°C with engine at about 82°C.
I had mine checked and know they are showing correct temps.
July last year I went to Spain and during the drive down through central Spain outside temp was hanging around 39°C till about 14:00 then went up to 57°C through an area of forest fire before dropping back to 40°.
During the earlier temp the engine temp was hanging around 89°C (I also had a leeky radiator) but increased to to be around 98° through the fires and staying around 96°with fans running constantly for the rest of the drive.
Did the same drive this year but a month earlier (just got back) and the outside temp was hanging around 34°C with engine at about 82°C.
It seems to be that the fans blowing through the radiator (the official way) does not improve the situation. (sucking has the same result!)
What I don't understand that the temperature indicator above 94 degrees jumps to 114-116 degrees en returns within seconds to 94 degrees. (you see the scale moving all the time) It seems that in the "hot area" something is happening there. Is the ECU upset if is hotter than 94? Strange is also that the oil is reaching quickly 100 degrees. (is to hot?)
What I don't understand that the temperature indicator above 94 degrees jumps to 114-116 degrees en returns within seconds to 94 degrees. (you see the scale moving all the time) It seems that in the "hot area" something is happening there. Is the ECU upset if is hotter than 94? Strange is also that the oil is reaching quickly 100 degrees. (is to hot?)
Thanks for the Topic Nick. Very helpfull. Just removed the earthstrap from below the altenator and the chassis. No corrosion, but I noticed that the TVRfactory connector pressing was very weak! The copper cable was loose inside the connector!. That could explain that with the higher temperatures the earth connection was very weak! Check your earth not only optical but check the pressing inside also
As others have said, the fans are supposed to suck through the radiator.
Also, if the fans fitted are designed to blow rather than suck, reversing the rotation will mean that the fans won't work as designed. Basically this means that they won't move as much air as they're supposed to which will lead to overheating (first signs are momentary flash boils as a steam bubble passes the temp sensor showing the sudden high temps)
Sounds like you have the wrong fans installed following your repair?
Do you have any pictures?
Also, if the fans fitted are designed to blow rather than suck, reversing the rotation will mean that the fans won't work as designed. Basically this means that they won't move as much air as they're supposed to which will lead to overheating (first signs are momentary flash boils as a steam bubble passes the temp sensor showing the sudden high temps)
Sounds like you have the wrong fans installed following your repair?
Do you have any pictures?
Edited by dvs_dave on Monday 19th July 22:58
The official way is to suck not blow the air. If you think about it, blowing air forward at slow speeds would just result in stalling any airflow the other way from forward motion of the car, meaning no cooling air passing through the rad. The point of the 2 channels in the main bonnet is to allow this air to be vented over the car, after being drawn through the rad by the fans, avoiding pre-heated air going into the engine bay. The fans are there to enhance the normal cooling effect of air being forced through the rad, not fight against it.
![](http://thumbsnap.com/sc/HbmuvbhH.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="http://thumbsnap.com/GtvOKusi" Target="_blank">[img]http://thumbsnap.com/sc/GtvOKusi.jpg)
The blue car has two replacement FAZ fans which suck standard. I changed the wiring of the fans but the result in the city is the same. I agree that sucking is the only right way. The other one has a mixture of old (Spiral) and FAZ (new) fan. As you can see are the blades the opposite. I assume that they both suck.
The cooling problems has perhaps more to do with the groudingfailure and the marginal cooling capacity of a Tuscan?
Keep you posted about further testing.
Both fans need to suck the air through the radiator...FACT. You also have to make sure that they're rotating in the correct direction with respect to their blade orientation or they won't work properly.
In this picture there are two different types of fan and they're each designed to rotate in opposite directions.
For correct cooling function (i.e both fans sucking) the Left fan must rotate anti-clockwise, and the Right fan must rotate clockwise. If they're both rotating in the same direction, one will suck and the other will blow so virtually cancelling each other out.
In this picture it's harder to tell what orientation the fan blades are (do you have a photo from the same angle as the first picture?) but they now both look to be the same type. If so, then the left and right fans should both rotate clockwise. If they're doing anything different than this, you've wired them up wrong and this will be the cause of your overheating problem because the Tuscan actually has a pretty good cooling system.
In this picture there are two different types of fan and they're each designed to rotate in opposite directions.
For correct cooling function (i.e both fans sucking) the Left fan must rotate anti-clockwise, and the Right fan must rotate clockwise. If they're both rotating in the same direction, one will suck and the other will blow so virtually cancelling each other out.
In this picture it's harder to tell what orientation the fan blades are (do you have a photo from the same angle as the first picture?) but they now both look to be the same type. If so, then the left and right fans should both rotate clockwise. If they're doing anything different than this, you've wired them up wrong and this will be the cause of your overheating problem because the Tuscan actually has a pretty good cooling system.
Edited by dvs_dave on Friday 23 July 14:18
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