What to do for more speed
Discussion
My Jago now has a 1600 cross flow with alternator after a swop from a 1300.
It is still too slow with about 60 being realistic top whack on the 4 speed box and the engine smokes a bit too.
When the engine was changed we reused the single choke carb off the 1300 as the webber 32 dgv was in poor condition.
However I cleaned up the webber and fitted it at the weekend. It now wont run steadily due to worn butterflies and the inlets were pretty coked up so all in all I'm pretty dissatisfied. Doesnt seem to have much more power either.
So can anyone tell me What sort of performance/top speed they get with other engines like Pinto's and a 5 speed box?
I've got a 1600 pinto reconditioned by Vulcan and some DHLA 40's and a five speed Type 9 box in the garage which was destined for another project. Is it worth using this in the Jago? would need new gearbox mounting ,radiator and propshaft.
Or should I get the Crossflow sorted? A new 32/36 Webber would be £160 plus a recon for say £200 and keep the 4 speed?
All I want is some better long distance ability.
Any comments on personal experiences would be gratefully recieved.
It is still too slow with about 60 being realistic top whack on the 4 speed box and the engine smokes a bit too.
When the engine was changed we reused the single choke carb off the 1300 as the webber 32 dgv was in poor condition.
However I cleaned up the webber and fitted it at the weekend. It now wont run steadily due to worn butterflies and the inlets were pretty coked up so all in all I'm pretty dissatisfied. Doesnt seem to have much more power either.
So can anyone tell me What sort of performance/top speed they get with other engines like Pinto's and a 5 speed box?
I've got a 1600 pinto reconditioned by Vulcan and some DHLA 40's and a five speed Type 9 box in the garage which was destined for another project. Is it worth using this in the Jago? would need new gearbox mounting ,radiator and propshaft.
Or should I get the Crossflow sorted? A new 32/36 Webber would be £160 plus a recon for say £200 and keep the 4 speed?
All I want is some better long distance ability.
Any comments on personal experiences would be gratefully recieved.
One thing you have to remember with a Jago is that it is a utility type vehicle and not a sports car.
Two brick walls head on in to the wind is a good description of its profile regards aerodynamics.
One thing you have got wrong is the fitment of the 1300 carb.
It wont be jetted to suit the 1600 that well.
It is possible to get Jago's to do more than 60mph with either a well set up 1600 xflow or a 2 litre (or well set up 1600 OHC).
The first thing you need to assess is the final drive ratio (back axle) if this is 3.54:1 then it is going to take more to push the vehicle along.
Check out the F.A.Q. page of the Jago Owners Club technical web site regards axle ratios.
http://joctecweb.future.easyspace.com
A five speed box will only help lower the revs during higher road speeds if this is a problem (which a low ratio axle would in effect do but this way it allows the engine to get nearer its optimum revs for torque).
A five speed box on a high ratio set up will only disappoint as you will be rowing away like mad with the gear stick to maintain any reasonable speed.
Our 2.3 diesel allowing for speedo inaccuracies probably does around 75 to 80mph all out.
Most Jago's with something like a 2 litre(unless well powered up) will usually do 70 to 75mph if the engine and drive ratios are set up correctly.
Jago Techsec
Cheers Chris,
I managed to get the 32 DGV running a bit better last night but not brilliantly. I will try replacing this first if I can find a better second hand one.(£165 new!)
Even in it's poor condition it gives a bit more pep than the Ford carb from the 1300.
I am not sure but the axle ratio must be fairly high (off an estate I think) as it accelerates well off the line but quickly runs out of steam in each gear. So from what you say an axle change or maybe taller tyres would be a good idea.
The Nokian Hakkepelita tyres on 14 inch weller rims look right but are pretty old and are ready for replacement.I think getting a set of 15" rims and tyres would be a good bet as I can keep the 14's for messing off road and maybe get a bit more top end without too much hassle.
Then spend a bit on engine and exhaust to keep it all happy and enable it to push taller gearing in 4th up hills. At least I know everything works that way and keeps the Jeep on the road.
I managed to get the 32 DGV running a bit better last night but not brilliantly. I will try replacing this first if I can find a better second hand one.(£165 new!)
Even in it's poor condition it gives a bit more pep than the Ford carb from the 1300.
I am not sure but the axle ratio must be fairly high (off an estate I think) as it accelerates well off the line but quickly runs out of steam in each gear. So from what you say an axle change or maybe taller tyres would be a good idea.
The Nokian Hakkepelita tyres on 14 inch weller rims look right but are pretty old and are ready for replacement.I think getting a set of 15" rims and tyres would be a good bet as I can keep the 14's for messing off road and maybe get a bit more top end without too much hassle.
Then spend a bit on engine and exhaust to keep it all happy and enable it to push taller gearing in 4th up hills. At least I know everything works that way and keeps the Jeep on the road.
Due to the aerodynamics, gearing is all. My old 1500GT with Anglia diff (4.125:1), 4spd box and 640x13" tyres would reach 85mph in a long enough country.
My current 1700GT(-ish) with saloon diff (3.8:1), 5spd box and 227/70x15" tyres will maintain 70mph with gearbox stirring and will accelerate beyond if slipstreaming!!! I don't use a hood or doors so that is not a comfortable speed anyway. If I wanted speed, I'd put the running gear into a Locost Eleven with 13" wheels.
I suggest that you get the gearing program from the Sylva site, measure your tyres, confirm the gear and diff ratios and then work out what you want from the car.
Maximum economy is gained if your cruising speed happens when the revs are halfway between max torque and max power. Usually about 4250 rpm on a non-GT cam.
The Rowleys-recommended guy did a great job on Mark Colvill's jeep at the Malvern Show. It was a different car going home.
Good Luck
Ian
My current 1700GT(-ish) with saloon diff (3.8:1), 5spd box and 227/70x15" tyres will maintain 70mph with gearbox stirring and will accelerate beyond if slipstreaming!!! I don't use a hood or doors so that is not a comfortable speed anyway. If I wanted speed, I'd put the running gear into a Locost Eleven with 13" wheels.
I suggest that you get the gearing program from the Sylva site, measure your tyres, confirm the gear and diff ratios and then work out what you want from the car.
Maximum economy is gained if your cruising speed happens when the revs are halfway between max torque and max power. Usually about 4250 rpm on a non-GT cam.
The Rowleys-recommended guy did a great job on Mark Colvill's jeep at the Malvern Show. It was a different car going home.
Good Luck
Ian
Hi again
I've just found some interesting gearing calculators on the Oxfordshire Mahindra site:
www.mahindrauk.co.uk/Calculators.htm
Cheers
Ian
I've just found some interesting gearing calculators on the Oxfordshire Mahindra site:
www.mahindrauk.co.uk/Calculators.htm
Cheers
Ian
My old samuri was good for 120 with a 1760 stage 2 xflow and some odd twin choke carb.. Got the speed checked by a friendly copper one day... mmm only cost me 40 quid i remember....cheque made out to clerk to the justices or somthing like that...
but if you really want some speed slap a V8 in there hee hee
but if you really want some speed slap a V8 in there hee hee
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