Mk 1 dash wiring problems
Discussion
Ok here is the fault list.
Fuel and Temp gauges don't work
They will if I remove dash earth and switch on lights!
BUT although they appear to work, its an illusion, ran out of fuel today with half a tank (according to guage) and engine temp is in red zone after 5 mins of running
Have all the standard rocker swithches ie: wiper, fan, washer, wipe, brake fluid test, 4 way flasher, fog - but none of the switch status lights that should light, do, other than the 4 way and fog.
I think a rewire is on the cards for the dash, so I need the diagrams to identify the origional wiring that I do have, should give me a starting point.
Jeep was in open air with no top for up to 6 months after being written off, so all the contacts must be suspect.
It's back to basics, so every hint or positive idea is very, very welcome - the rebuild has taken best part of a year and the yellow peril will eventually function as it should!
Fuel and Temp gauges don't work
They will if I remove dash earth and switch on lights!
BUT although they appear to work, its an illusion, ran out of fuel today with half a tank (according to guage) and engine temp is in red zone after 5 mins of running
Have all the standard rocker swithches ie: wiper, fan, washer, wipe, brake fluid test, 4 way flasher, fog - but none of the switch status lights that should light, do, other than the 4 way and fog.
I think a rewire is on the cards for the dash, so I need the diagrams to identify the origional wiring that I do have, should give me a starting point.
Jeep was in open air with no top for up to 6 months after being written off, so all the contacts must be suspect.
It's back to basics, so every hint or positive idea is very, very welcome - the rebuild has taken best part of a year and the yellow peril will eventually function as it should!
I have scanned some diagrams from a Mk1 Mexico/RS manual and they are in the post to you.
Hopefully they may help. Whether the voltage stabiliser (the little tin box on the back of the instrument cluster) has gone and packed up and this is the reason for the guages not working right.
This unit is what stops the guages from responding to evry little movement (especially the fuel guage) by damping the voltage changes.
As you say the fact it has had a good soaking will not have done the electrics any favours.
>> Edited by techsec on Friday 17th October 12:20
Hopefully they may help. Whether the voltage stabiliser (the little tin box on the back of the instrument cluster) has gone and packed up and this is the reason for the guages not working right.
This unit is what stops the guages from responding to evry little movement (especially the fuel guage) by damping the voltage changes.
As you say the fact it has had a good soaking will not have done the electrics any favours.
>> Edited by techsec on Friday 17th October 12:20
Dave,
I know that it's been a while since this was put on, but it sounds ver similar to the position I'm in. After having my Jago for a while I finally got it running - new brakes, UJ, moved fuel tank etc. Only to find afer 24hours the electrics have a mind of their own.
First how have you got on, and 2nd I've been thinking about a complete rewire, rather than checking as the circuit diagrams I've got are not the best.
To anyone - I assume this has been done before, how much hassle is it? Could I buy a Mk1 escort harness and mod that more easily?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Rob
I know that it's been a while since this was put on, but it sounds ver similar to the position I'm in. After having my Jago for a while I finally got it running - new brakes, UJ, moved fuel tank etc. Only to find afer 24hours the electrics have a mind of their own.
First how have you got on, and 2nd I've been thinking about a complete rewire, rather than checking as the circuit diagrams I've got are not the best.
To anyone - I assume this has been done before, how much hassle is it? Could I buy a Mk1 escort harness and mod that more easily?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Rob
Hi,
I scratch wired my Geep, but I didn't use the standard instruments which made it easier. It took me about 2 weeks, not for the faint hearted! (BTW I do electronics and electrics for a living which made it easier.)
I have seen an advert in Kit Car for someone who makes custom looms, you tell them what the bits are and how far apart they are and along comes the loom, cost about £120 if I remember correctly. Of course I can't find the ad now. If I find it I'll post another message.
I scratch wired my Geep, but I didn't use the standard instruments which made it easier. It took me about 2 weeks, not for the faint hearted! (BTW I do electronics and electrics for a living which made it easier.)
I have seen an advert in Kit Car for someone who makes custom looms, you tell them what the bits are and how far apart they are and along comes the loom, cost about £120 if I remember correctly. Of course I can't find the ad now. If I find it I'll post another message.
There are companies such as Lightning Looms 01926 424323 that make bespoke looms for most vehicles if you give then the details of what system the vehicle is using.
Another possibility is to contact Andy Blakemore (Rickmans Owners Club)0121 3293209 and order a loom from him. Both Rickman cars and Jago's use the Escort system so the looms are compatable.
I have one myself waiting to go into T4x4 when it is ready for the wiring part of the rebuild.
Very clear instructions with the loom.
You can also go down the Escort loom route but you must remember these looms are second hand and depending on how the vehicle was used/abused and who and how the loom was removed will determine how well it will work or not.
You will usually also need a good wiring diagram to be able to make sense of the loom as most folks do not label up the wires as they remove the loom from the vehicle.
If you want a second hand loom then someone such as Ian Harwood 0151 3392801 should be able to help.
>> Edited by techsec on Wednesday 25th February 10:55
Another possibility is to contact Andy Blakemore (Rickmans Owners Club)0121 3293209 and order a loom from him. Both Rickman cars and Jago's use the Escort system so the looms are compatable.
I have one myself waiting to go into T4x4 when it is ready for the wiring part of the rebuild.
Very clear instructions with the loom.
You can also go down the Escort loom route but you must remember these looms are second hand and depending on how the vehicle was used/abused and who and how the loom was removed will determine how well it will work or not.
You will usually also need a good wiring diagram to be able to make sense of the loom as most folks do not label up the wires as they remove the loom from the vehicle.
If you want a second hand loom then someone such as Ian Harwood 0151 3392801 should be able to help.
>> Edited by techsec on Wednesday 25th February 10:55
I had to stop and check under the bonnet the other day when the temp gauge hit the red just after the MOT. Then I noticed that the fuel gauge was reading fuller than it ever does. The voltage regulator on the back of the speedo had come loose. Tightened small hex head screw and all's well.
Moral: never trust an earth connection on a kit car until you can see your face in the metal. Clean them up and use a dab of copper grease upon reassembly.
Cheers
Ian
Moral: never trust an earth connection on a kit car until you can see your face in the metal. Clean them up and use a dab of copper grease upon reassembly.
Cheers
Ian
Rewire, never got round to it. fitted a new (to me) voltage stabilizer - did not help at all, fuel gauge still showing half full and temp gauge off the clock after 5 minutes - BUT WAIT
I had another problem, which crept up on me when overtaking!, fuel starvation.
Took the hose off at the carb, fuel coming thru at a trickle - changed the inline filter, no better.
Tracked down a new mech pump ('69 capri, only a fiver!) no better (slighly different angle on cam?). Fitted morris minor electric pump, still no better. Stripped and serviced the carb, no good.
Only thing left was the fuel tank pick up, took out the sender unit and sure enough the gauze was bright pink (started adding fuel additives a few weeks ago!) and completely blocked, threw it away, in-line is enough. Fuel starvation cured!!!!!! BUT another solution offered itself, the float arm was solid, at half travel, now freed up and waiting for warm weather to connect the old voltage stabilizer, perhaps the gauges will now work (the new one could be 6v - it cam off the back of a huge smiths, unknown history)
I had another problem, which crept up on me when overtaking!, fuel starvation.
Took the hose off at the carb, fuel coming thru at a trickle - changed the inline filter, no better.
Tracked down a new mech pump ('69 capri, only a fiver!) no better (slighly different angle on cam?). Fitted morris minor electric pump, still no better. Stripped and serviced the carb, no good.
Only thing left was the fuel tank pick up, took out the sender unit and sure enough the gauze was bright pink (started adding fuel additives a few weeks ago!) and completely blocked, threw it away, in-line is enough. Fuel starvation cured!!!!!! BUT another solution offered itself, the float arm was solid, at half travel, now freed up and waiting for warm weather to connect the old voltage stabilizer, perhaps the gauges will now work (the new one could be 6v - it cam off the back of a huge smiths, unknown history)
Update
Thanks for the earth reminder!
sender unit reconnected, new earth lead added to guages, voltage stabilizer refitted, presto all working again!
Though it would seem that earthing is behind most of the electrical problems - any advantage in putting in an earth lead (like a ring main) which can be connected into for all components, ensuring good circuits - the builder of my jeep has relied on a chocolate block on the bulkhead as a central earth location in the dash area, that will be gone soon!
I have also noted that the battery earth is a 2.5 mm standard copper lead, bolted to the cross member in front of the battery - by the weekend that lead will have become a braided cable running to chassis and block!
Footnote, came across a set of air horns (new, £10 only!) which should, when installed, play the dukes of hazzard tune. Are they legal when fitted to a vehicle with historical registration, ie. pre 1972?
Thanks for the earth reminder!
sender unit reconnected, new earth lead added to guages, voltage stabilizer refitted, presto all working again!
Though it would seem that earthing is behind most of the electrical problems - any advantage in putting in an earth lead (like a ring main) which can be connected into for all components, ensuring good circuits - the builder of my jeep has relied on a chocolate block on the bulkhead as a central earth location in the dash area, that will be gone soon!
I have also noted that the battery earth is a 2.5 mm standard copper lead, bolted to the cross member in front of the battery - by the weekend that lead will have become a braided cable running to chassis and block!
Footnote, came across a set of air horns (new, £10 only!) which should, when installed, play the dukes of hazzard tune. Are they legal when fitted to a vehicle with historical registration, ie. pre 1972?
dave36 wrote:
by the weekend that lead will have become a braided cable running to chassis and block!
Way to go !!! I've found that the rearmost exhaust manifold stud often has enough thread left to take a terminal and locking nut. It's very close to the earthing point by the battery so only needs a short braided cable.
Cheers
Ian
by the weekend that lead will have become a braided cable running to chassis and block!
Way to go !!! I've found that the rearmost exhaust manifold stud often has enough thread left to take a terminal and locking nut. It's very close to the earthing point by the battery so only needs a short braided cable.
Cheers
Ian
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