4.2 induction ' spacers' & Threadlock on starter motor?

[stuthemong]

Hello my favoured peeps!

My starter has decided give up the ghost, so I've sourced a new one to fit this weekend. One question before doing this is about the location / visibility of the "four spacers underneath the fuel rail / inlet manifolds" that one should NOT let drop into the inlet ports.

I've never removed my fuel rail, and need to to get to the motor - is it pretty darn obvious what these spacers look like / where they are, or do I need use extreme caution? I remember a thread about a year back where one unfortunate DIY'er dropped a spacer into the cylinder... I do not wish to repeat that

Also, do I need to use threadlock on the bolts holding the starter motor in, or just torque 'em up?

Thanks, guys

Kindest,

Stu

[JensenA]

When I replaced my Starter Motor I didn't have to remove the fuel rail - it was tight, but not much of a problem. Mine is a 4.5, so it may be different on the 4.2, but it should be possible.

[Tanguero]

The spacers are on the 4 bolts that hold the manifold to the cam covers, between the manifold and the cover and are little cylinders about 10mm high. Yes, you do need to be careful with them not least because they are aluminium and if you do drop one you can't use a magnetic pickup tool to retrieve it.

You can get the starter in and out without removing the fuel rail on a 4.2 (depending on how much you value the skin on your knuckles), but it is definitely easier with it removed.

I may be teaching granny egg sucking, but make sure you disconnect the battery first as the big fuse cover comes open fairly easily as you are manoeuvring the starter past it.

You shouldn't need locktite on the starter bolts, just torque them up to "3 grunts" with the shakeproof washers.

[stuthemong]

Cheers guys. I got a bit lucky actually.

Not a hope in hell to get the starter out from my 4.2 without removing the rail is my conclusion, but in the end I didn't need to

My problem was with the wiring to the starter, the feed from the starter to the battery had cracked. This explained the symptoms of:

Normal start one day, followed by battery warning light some 30 mins later. Nursed home, recharged battery and then couldn't start car. Only got a loud 'click' as the solenoid engaged.

Verified 12V from immobiliser, undid starter to remove it (thinking solenoid wasn't working properly) and saw main batt feed to starter broken. It must have happened during my drive and as charging system is alt->starter->battery also meant that I lost alt power. Anyway, it explained why I lost all power and ability to start, removed cable, got a new eyelet made up, refitted & good to go.