Replacing / refurbing windscreen wiper motor
Discussion
Just incase anyone needs to do this in the future, I thought I'd post up a how-to after my weekends knucklescaping joy.
My motor stopped working, so I decided to remove it and send it to be refurbished. I found a link to a chap called Adrian Venn, http://www.exactly-tvr.demon.co.uk/ - and texted him. Sent him my motor & got a refurb unit in return - prices slightly depend on what what is wrong with your motor, but budget £160 on average. I got mine back the following week, looking brand new
Anyway. Removal:
-Remove main panel under bonnet.
-Undo two bolts holding in bonnet locking bar. Lift & swing bar out of the way.
-Undo clip holding water inlet pipe to header tank, remove inlet pipe.
-Undo header tank securing bolt
-Slide header tank up & out to access two bolts holding header tank bracket in place
-Remove header tank braket.
-Yank on electrical cable plugged into wiper motor. This cable was HEAVILY rusted on mine, I couldn't get it out for AGES, thinking maybe there was a locking clip or somesuch. There isn't, it's just a simple pull. Anyway, I uttely distroyed my wiper motor park switch (it exploded) removing this connector, but the connector survived
-Undo 13mm nuts which hold wipers on the spinners, lift wipers off. Rotate spinners 180 degrees (and mark them) so when you refit you are using a different side of the gear
Go into pax footwell.
-Remove floormat.
-Remove bottom panel (that hides ECU)
-Remove large panel under pax dash. To do this undo a wingnut which resides up insude the lower edge of this panel , near the passengers left shin. Slide panel out.
-Remove heater ducting from RHS and let swing down
You can now see the back of the bulkhead and two nuts which hold the bracket which holds the wiper motor.
-Undo bolts which hold wiper braket on. You'll need an assistant to lie in the footwell to stop the nuts spinning.
-Undo the 17 (or 19)mm nut which holds the wiper motor onto the wiper 'channel'. This large nut sits near the LHS (looking from bonnet into cabin) of the motor, and is the only thing holding it in. When undone pull the wiper motor assembly out of the car. This will draw a long flexy cable out of the channel & the wiper studs will spin around and around.
Send motor to adrian & get him to mend it.
Refit is reverse of removal*
My motor stopped working, so I decided to remove it and send it to be refurbished. I found a link to a chap called Adrian Venn, http://www.exactly-tvr.demon.co.uk/ - and texted him. Sent him my motor & got a refurb unit in return - prices slightly depend on what what is wrong with your motor, but budget £160 on average. I got mine back the following week, looking brand new
Anyway. Removal:
-Remove main panel under bonnet.
-Undo two bolts holding in bonnet locking bar. Lift & swing bar out of the way.
-Undo clip holding water inlet pipe to header tank, remove inlet pipe.
-Undo header tank securing bolt
-Slide header tank up & out to access two bolts holding header tank bracket in place
-Remove header tank braket.
-Yank on electrical cable plugged into wiper motor. This cable was HEAVILY rusted on mine, I couldn't get it out for AGES, thinking maybe there was a locking clip or somesuch. There isn't, it's just a simple pull. Anyway, I uttely distroyed my wiper motor park switch (it exploded) removing this connector, but the connector survived
-Undo 13mm nuts which hold wipers on the spinners, lift wipers off. Rotate spinners 180 degrees (and mark them) so when you refit you are using a different side of the gear
Go into pax footwell.
-Remove floormat.
-Remove bottom panel (that hides ECU)
-Remove large panel under pax dash. To do this undo a wingnut which resides up insude the lower edge of this panel , near the passengers left shin. Slide panel out.
-Remove heater ducting from RHS and let swing down
You can now see the back of the bulkhead and two nuts which hold the bracket which holds the wiper motor.
-Undo bolts which hold wiper braket on. You'll need an assistant to lie in the footwell to stop the nuts spinning.
-Undo the 17 (or 19)mm nut which holds the wiper motor onto the wiper 'channel'. This large nut sits near the LHS (looking from bonnet into cabin) of the motor, and is the only thing holding it in. When undone pull the wiper motor assembly out of the car. This will draw a long flexy cable out of the channel & the wiper studs will spin around and around.
Send motor to adrian & get him to mend it.
Refit is reverse of removal
*- When refitting grease up the cable before inserting it </swiss tony>. Do not fit the wipers until you've plugged the whole thing in & tested it by switching the wiper motors on from the wheel controls. This causes the motor to seek park position. Fit the wipers to the correct position after the park sequence is completed. Also Adrian advises that the wipers are not expected to work on a dry screen or at 12V, make sure your squoosher is working A-OK and that you have the engine running (14.4V) before testing the motor with blades on.
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