Discussion
cerdad said:
did my outriggers in stainless,2 days a side,mine were the same,undid the passengers side and the jacking point fell on the floor plus a large hole behind the centre cross section.
So you'll never need to do them again - been thinking the same thing but mine are still very good! Thanks guys . I am using the black chassis in the background . The old one even has a hole in the side of the rectangular section rail where it has rusted from the inside so not worth repairing . The new one has cills in CDS ,some addition tubes to help stop it twisting and atronger suspension mountings .
Plasticman, could you get a shot of the two chassis side by side?? There seems to be a fair difference in the outrigger sections alone (rear mounting points to the main ladder for example?) Fascinating stuff...
Also, is that what I think it is in the background? Peering out of the covers?? Photos of that too would be great, nice wheels on it too... Typhon/T440R/hybrid of that and something else? Is this the 'Typhera'?
Also, is that what I think it is in the background? Peering out of the covers?? Photos of that too would be great, nice wheels on it too... Typhon/T440R/hybrid of that and something else? Is this the 'Typhera'?
You must have used some strong friends to lift the body taking half the outrigger like that 
Glad to see you are coming along at the same speed as me, it was months ago we were getting our chassis powder coated! It's looking good though, I was trying to work out where you had put those extra tubes when you mentioned them last time. I guess you have checked the front wheel for clearance on them
I tried to do a test fit of the chassis to make sure it still fitted after my repairs but it is one hell of a tight fit:
I thought there was a bit of a cracking noise as I took it out I can see why now!
Have you or any one else got any tricks for squeezing it in? I tried it at an angle (side ways) but it was still half a tube too wide. It will go with a bit of
but in trying I damaged the power coating a bit so I stopped to finish every thing else first. Then I’ll just do it the once, but the bit where the powder coat gets damaged its just where you cant get to it beside the body there 
Glad to see you are coming along at the same speed as me, it was months ago we were getting our chassis powder coated! It's looking good though, I was trying to work out where you had put those extra tubes when you mentioned them last time. I guess you have checked the front wheel for clearance on them
I tried to do a test fit of the chassis to make sure it still fitted after my repairs but it is one hell of a tight fit:
I thought there was a bit of a cracking noise as I took it out I can see why now!
Have you or any one else got any tricks for squeezing it in? I tried it at an angle (side ways) but it was still half a tube too wide. It will go with a bit of
but in trying I damaged the power coating a bit so I stopped to finish every thing else first. Then I’ll just do it the once, but the bit where the powder coat gets damaged its just where you cant get to it beside the body there jammy_basturd said:
Bit of a brute force method, but two large wooden spreader plates either side of the exhaust tunnel, and a bottle jack to carefully spread the exhaust tunnel a bit wider?
This method, whether using a bottle jack or just wedging bits of wood in place - there should be a reasonable amount of give in the body/transmission tunnel fibreglass.The addition tubes are on the front . They go from the shocker plate mounting on the chassis to the outriggers . As the front wheel would not let me go to the corner of the cill I have put a fillet between the outriggers to spread the force and doubled the thickness of body mounting plate . I am mainly trying to eliminate the twist on the chassis when there is a jacking foce on the front corner evident by the fact that the doors go out of alignment .There is also an additional bracket to put the top wisbone mount into double shear .
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