Wipers misbehaving!
Discussion
The wipers are stopping (often mid windscreen) as you run through the sequence of pressing the button after using intermittent wipe. Also, in heavier rain, whilst using normal wipe mode, again, pressing the button twice to cancel the wipers leaves them at all sorts of random places on the windscreen.
Relay? If so, where is it and is it easy to access and replace?
regards,
Matt
Relay? If so, where is it and is it easy to access and replace?
regards,
Matt
Park switch for sure, just done mine and it's a bit of a fiddle.
Best way is airbox off, water header tank off, bracket that holds that off then loosen the wiper motor from it's bracket and replace.
I have heard people can do it in situ, I tried but gave up.
As Scotty says, there is a reasonably recent thread about this. If you want the part number I can checkout my invoice when I get home?
Best way is airbox off, water header tank off, bracket that holds that off then loosen the wiper motor from it's bracket and replace.
I have heard people can do it in situ, I tried but gave up.
As Scotty says, there is a reasonably recent thread about this. If you want the part number I can checkout my invoice when I get home?
After I changed my park switch a few months back I decided to pull my old one apart. There really is nothing inside that would prevent the old one being repaired.
Unfortunately as I pulled mine apart all the bits went flying so I couldn't see exactly the fault but there are only two things it can be. 1 a broken solder joint or 2 a build up of crap between the switch part.
So if you want to save a tenner its worth having a play before ordering a new one.
Unfortunately as I pulled mine apart all the bits went flying so I couldn't see exactly the fault but there are only two things it can be. 1 a broken solder joint or 2 a build up of crap between the switch part.
So if you want to save a tenner its worth having a play before ordering a new one.
There really is nothing to them.
Get a lever just inside the recess behind the black spring clip and gently prise it open. They are easy to put back together. And like I said only two things can go wrong. I am just not sure which was the original fault as I was not careful enough when opening mine up. There is a soldered joint and a touch switch and thats it!! My soldered joint was broke but also the touch switch had a build up of crap on it so could have been either.
Give it a go you got nothing to lose apart from then having to wait for mr postman if you can't repair it.
Get a lever just inside the recess behind the black spring clip and gently prise it open. They are easy to put back together. And like I said only two things can go wrong. I am just not sure which was the original fault as I was not careful enough when opening mine up. There is a soldered joint and a touch switch and thats it!! My soldered joint was broke but also the touch switch had a build up of crap on it so could have been either.
Give it a go you got nothing to lose apart from then having to wait for mr postman if you can't repair it.
If your going to have a go at fixing it yourself then start by prising the unit open from where you see the screwdriver pointing to then work your way round.
Once inside and once you have put the bits back together lol It will look like this.....
The part marked 'A' on mine was full of crap (I am sure there is a technical term for a build up of electrical 'stuff' but I don't know it so crap will do for now lol)
Also the part marked 'B' appears to have been soldered together. Now this I am not %100 sure about but there are signs of solder there and I can't see any other reason why.
personally I would clean the dirty connections first try that and if that fails try re soldering that joint.
Once inside and once you have put the bits back together lol It will look like this.....
The part marked 'A' on mine was full of crap (I am sure there is a technical term for a build up of electrical 'stuff' but I don't know it so crap will do for now lol)
Also the part marked 'B' appears to have been soldered together. Now this I am not %100 sure about but there are signs of solder there and I can't see any other reason why.
personally I would clean the dirty connections first try that and if that fails try re soldering that joint.
Mark- thanks mate.
Mad Mark- thanks also. Don't know if it's my coal driven laptop or not but I can't see the pics you helpfully posted. I can see other person's pics on P/H, it's just yours in this thread that I can't see. But like I said, my laptop is even older than the park switch- probably
Mad Mark- thanks also. Don't know if it's my coal driven laptop or not but I can't see the pics you helpfully posted. I can see other person's pics on P/H, it's just yours in this thread that I can't see. But like I said, my laptop is even older than the park switch- probably
Hmm strange! I can see them not sure why you cant I hosted them on photobucket.
Try these links then
Pic 1
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v333/Mark69/Wipe...
Pic 2
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v333/Mark69/Wipe...
Try these links then
Pic 1
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v333/Mark69/Wipe...
Pic 2
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v333/Mark69/Wipe...
Mad Mark said:
If your going to have a go at fixing it yourself then start by prising the unit open from where you see the screwdriver pointing to then work your way round.
Once inside and once you have put the bits back together lol It will look like this.....
The part marked 'A' on mine was full of crap (I am sure there is a technical term for a build up of electrical 'stuff' but I don't know it so crap will do for now lol)
Also the part marked 'B' appears to have been soldered together. Now this I am not %100 sure about but there are signs of solder there and I can't see any other reason why.
personally I would clean the dirty connections first try that and if that fails try re soldering that joint.
Part 'B' has attempted to weld it self together from overload!!! (this is the main contact within the switch) IMHO you would want to know WHY the current drain would do this....Once inside and once you have put the bits back together lol It will look like this.....
The part marked 'A' on mine was full of crap (I am sure there is a technical term for a build up of electrical 'stuff' but I don't know it so crap will do for now lol)
Also the part marked 'B' appears to have been soldered together. Now this I am not %100 sure about but there are signs of solder there and I can't see any other reason why.
personally I would clean the dirty connections first try that and if that fails try re soldering that joint.
Adrian@
Adrian@ said:
Part 'B' has attempted to weld it self together from overload!!! (this is the main contact within the switch) IMHO you would want to know WHY the current drain would do this....
Adrian@
There is definitely a lump of solder of very similar in that joint but whether it was there to join the two together or to just give a raised point I am not sure. Adrian@
I have heard on here that jump starting can cause an overload to the control boxes.. maybe this has an effect on the park switches also which is why they are a common failure.
THE silver you see IS the contact and its spot welded on to the arm, overload and splatter of that material is caused by the motor attempting to seize, it is fed back into that one point drawing metal from one side to the other (old style ignition points are the same) causing the park switch to fail.
On Cerbera's the next in-line point of weakness is the Wiper ECU and this then damages the tracks on the board...all this said the car has fuses to protect the circuits.
BUT once the arms are away from park the motor is 12V + fed and if the points are unreliable (pitted) then the cycle is ongoing and unreliable information is fed to the ECU.
IMHO there is no relationship re jump starting, however I do see lots of burnt out motors and the cause is almost 100% the same, If I was to look through the symptom and cause of a burnt out motor, I would expect to find the customer saying 'I replaced the park switch last year' or something along that line ....IMHO treating the symptom not the cause.
Granted park switches have issues of failure/rusty connections/ water ingress but...
Adrian@
On Cerbera's the next in-line point of weakness is the Wiper ECU and this then damages the tracks on the board...all this said the car has fuses to protect the circuits.
BUT once the arms are away from park the motor is 12V + fed and if the points are unreliable (pitted) then the cycle is ongoing and unreliable information is fed to the ECU.
IMHO there is no relationship re jump starting, however I do see lots of burnt out motors and the cause is almost 100% the same, If I was to look through the symptom and cause of a burnt out motor, I would expect to find the customer saying 'I replaced the park switch last year' or something along that line ....IMHO treating the symptom not the cause.
Granted park switches have issues of failure/rusty connections/ water ingress but...
Adrian@
.Mark said:
OK so at last home. 4.5 hours from Waterloo to Hayling anyone?
It's a Lucas part and the number on my invoice is WHB101 - if youget no luck and want one let me know and I'll get Mick to order you one and I'll drop it in the post.
Mark,It's a Lucas part and the number on my invoice is WHB101 - if youget no luck and want one let me know and I'll get Mick to order you one and I'll drop it in the post.
Struggling to find a supplier on t'internet. If you could order one for me that would be fantastic. Let me know the total cost inc post and packaging and your a/c details (PM me!)and I'll transfer the money to your a/c.
Cheers, Matt
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