PROBLEMS - Inlet Manifold / Throttle Boddies
Discussion
Hi all....... Help needed !!!!
OK, here is the problem......
Whilst putting my beloved Cerbera 4.5 back together after certain starting problems i came across a few niggles that i wanted fixed, one being one of the holes that holds the bracket over the injection rail had been stripped by an ex "TVR Dealer" i might add, now an apparent TVR Specialist and they just decided not to fix it but to leave the screw vibrating around in the hole.... luckily the threads further down the hole were still intact so a slightly longer bolt was used and that solved that, but person that done this though it be a good idea to put a small amount of engine silicone in the holes ??? for a bit of extra strength i guess...... who knows...
Now, after driving the car home later that evening when it was back together i found the accelerator to feel just a little stiff, but thought this was maybe down to lack of use... anyway i put the car in the garage and there it stayed for a few weeks, yesterday i decided to get it out and go for a drive and found the accelerator pedal to be stuck.... after closer inspection (removal of air boxes and induction hoses) i found that under the suction from the engine it had sucked the silicon from the screw holes of the injection bracket mounting holes ????? into the shaft that's connected to the throttle butterflies and jamed the o/s bank which now, after some fiddling and cleaning is now freed off a bit but is still stiff and will not retun to the closed position, i could see little bits of grey silicone coming from the rods into the chamber so just scraped that away, but i need this problem fixed properly.... so, can anyone tell me, firstly if there is a way to remove the shaft on it's own or if i have to remove the whole unit and seccondly, how i would go about doing this.....
Thanks for any help you can give
Craig
OK, here is the problem......
Whilst putting my beloved Cerbera 4.5 back together after certain starting problems i came across a few niggles that i wanted fixed, one being one of the holes that holds the bracket over the injection rail had been stripped by an ex "TVR Dealer" i might add, now an apparent TVR Specialist and they just decided not to fix it but to leave the screw vibrating around in the hole.... luckily the threads further down the hole were still intact so a slightly longer bolt was used and that solved that, but person that done this though it be a good idea to put a small amount of engine silicone in the holes ??? for a bit of extra strength i guess...... who knows...
Now, after driving the car home later that evening when it was back together i found the accelerator to feel just a little stiff, but thought this was maybe down to lack of use... anyway i put the car in the garage and there it stayed for a few weeks, yesterday i decided to get it out and go for a drive and found the accelerator pedal to be stuck.... after closer inspection (removal of air boxes and induction hoses) i found that under the suction from the engine it had sucked the silicon from the screw holes of the injection bracket mounting holes ????? into the shaft that's connected to the throttle butterflies and jamed the o/s bank which now, after some fiddling and cleaning is now freed off a bit but is still stiff and will not retun to the closed position, i could see little bits of grey silicone coming from the rods into the chamber so just scraped that away, but i need this problem fixed properly.... so, can anyone tell me, firstly if there is a way to remove the shaft on it's own or if i have to remove the whole unit and seccondly, how i would go about doing this.....
Thanks for any help you can give
Craig
Not entirely sure what you are taking about there chap, a pic would be much clearer. The link rod between the two banks will come off if you take out the retaining clips (if memory serves), I can't really see how silicon could affect that though. So I'm guessing it's something else you are talking about.
The usual cause for stiff pedal is a worn cable, disconnect the cable from the linkage & try to move the butterfly's then. If they then move easily change the cable that runs up from the pedal, some people have used mountain bike brake cable to save money.
The usual cause for stiff pedal is a worn cable, disconnect the cable from the linkage & try to move the butterfly's then. If they then move easily change the cable that runs up from the pedal, some people have used mountain bike brake cable to save money.
Hi there, i will take a pic or 2 over the weekend and upload them... but it's not the link rod between the 2 throttles or the accelerator cable, it's the shaft that holds the butterflies. i have already removed the link rod so that i can open each bank on it's own to find out which one was seized. with both link rod and cable removed the butterfly shaft on the drivers side can be moved, but with a lot of resistance and stays where it is when you let go, the return spring cant pull it back..... the passenger side still moves freely...... i need to remove the drivers side shaft somehow and clean it up.
Thanks Craig
Thanks Craig
Edited by cosmicsnot on Friday 5th August 08:31
Oh sorry just just worked it out you quite clearly said
Before:
After:
Sorry I didn't take any pics with the spindle/shaft out, but for ref don't take that grub screw you can see in the pic there out.
As you can see I took mine off as I was doing metal work on them, but I think the shaft would come out with them still on the car, I can't remember if it would come out of both ends though (I think it should), as on the car you'd only be able to get it out of the front end. Give it a go on the car if you like then if you have to take it off so be it, just be VERY careful not to drop anything down through the open valves or you will end up rebuilding the engine!
To get it out:
I think you'll be able to get away with loosening the grub screw of the arm on the end near the bulk head & taking that arm off. Take the Tpot of the front end. Take all the screws out of the butterflies then slide the butterflies all out too. Then the shaft should "just slide out" but if it's sticky it will take some doing. I should try to get some masking tape in below the butterflies before you start or bits of muck will be dropping down each body at the same time as the shaft comes out. I've a feeling I found silicon down my shafts too!
That's the easy bit though putting it all back is a little more tricky, getting all the butterflies lined up is a right PITA. You will most likely also have to reset the idle by pluging in a lap top after too. I took all the adjuster rings off both ends so lost all the settings, but I think I released after they didn't actually need to come off...
Good luck!
cosmicsnot said:
..... the shaft that's connected to the throttle butterflies and jamed the o/s bank which now......
Craig
So I guess you have all ready disconnected the throttle cable & the link rod between the banks to establish the above? Do check the throttle cable also, but in answer to your actual question - yes that shaft will come out of the throttle bodies. I took both of mine totally apart as there was a large step the just below the butterfly's where they hadn't been lined up correctly when machined in the factory, worse one end than the other, apparently there was a whole batch made like it. I ground off the extra metal & welded new to the oposite side to make it a smooth path for the air again.Craig
Before:
After:
Sorry I didn't take any pics with the spindle/shaft out, but for ref don't take that grub screw you can see in the pic there out.
As you can see I took mine off as I was doing metal work on them, but I think the shaft would come out with them still on the car, I can't remember if it would come out of both ends though (I think it should), as on the car you'd only be able to get it out of the front end. Give it a go on the car if you like then if you have to take it off so be it, just be VERY careful not to drop anything down through the open valves or you will end up rebuilding the engine!
To get it out:
I think you'll be able to get away with loosening the grub screw of the arm on the end near the bulk head & taking that arm off. Take the Tpot of the front end. Take all the screws out of the butterflies then slide the butterflies all out too. Then the shaft should "just slide out" but if it's sticky it will take some doing. I should try to get some masking tape in below the butterflies before you start or bits of muck will be dropping down each body at the same time as the shaft comes out. I've a feeling I found silicon down my shafts too!
That's the easy bit though putting it all back is a little more tricky, getting all the butterflies lined up is a right PITA. You will most likely also have to reset the idle by pluging in a lap top after too. I took all the adjuster rings off both ends so lost all the settings, but I think I released after they didn't actually need to come off...
Good luck!
Edited by Luckyone on Friday 5th August 08:47
Luckyone, thanks for the advice mate.... this is now my job for the weekend. hopefully i will have good news come sunday :-) i will update as soon as i know something.
I've got a laptop but got no cable.... will look into getting one... do you know if the software is on PH ???
Thanks again for the help, take it easy
Craig
I've got a laptop but got no cable.... will look into getting one... do you know if the software is on PH ???
Thanks again for the help, take it easy
Craig
cosmicsnot said:
Luckyone, thanks for the advice mate.... this is now my job for the weekend. hopefully i will have good news come sunday :-) i will update as soon as i know something.
I've got a laptop but got no cable.... will look into getting one... do you know if the software is on PH ???
Thanks again for the help, take it easy
Craig
No probs, I don't know if the pics I just added will help you, but they should make it more interesting for every one else I've got a laptop but got no cable.... will look into getting one... do you know if the software is on PH ???
Thanks again for the help, take it easy
Craig
I just took it back to my indy to have the idle set as it's quite a quick job & I have neither lap top, cable or software (I like spanners not PCs!) But I've seen the software talked about on here, have a search, I'm sure some one holds it on their web site. You may get away with not re-setting it after, just depends where the Tpot ends up as you shouldn't have to change anything else, but it would be better too.
Software is on here http://www.tvr-cerbera.co.uk I suggest you use the new version.
Luckyone..... After weeks of bad weather and work commitments i eventually got to look at the throttle boddies last night, done exactly as you said and i managed to get the shaft out no problem at all, picked the silicone off, cleand the shaft and replaced it, now moves beter than it did when i bought it. Thanks again for your help, hopefully one day i'll be able to return the favour......
Take it easy :-)
Craig
Take it easy :-)
Craig
cosmicsnot said:
Luckyone..... After weeks of bad weather and work commitments i eventually got to look at the throttle boddies last night, done exactly as you said and i managed to get the shaft out no problem at all, picked the silicone off, cleand the shaft and replaced it, now moves beter than it did when i bought it. Thanks again for your help, hopefully one day i'll be able to return the favour......
Take it easy :-)
Craig
Was wandering how got on, glad it went well for you Take it easy :-)
Craig
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