Discussion
My Mil light and buzzer came on several times yesterday on a journey although not constant on, which may explain the rough running, funny how it was after the rolling road day which may be coincidence or something that was going to happen. either way need to sort it out.
Any way, Need to plug my laptop into the ECU and see why it has come on or if its anything simpler as the coil packs, although i changed the leads, coils and plugs about October time last year.
I have not yet plugged my laptop into the car, so will be the first time doing this. after i give the laptop a going over to make it run a bit quicker old laptop which will be for just the cerbera from now on.
Can someone provide me some screen shots of a good base, what the car should be running that i can check against, or a list of good figures with tolerances. Give me a good base to start with before i need to investigate further or to take it to Austec, which wouldn't be too bad as from the results of the rolling road and the over fueling i think the car would benefit a remap.
Thanks in advance
Peter
Any way, Need to plug my laptop into the ECU and see why it has come on or if its anything simpler as the coil packs, although i changed the leads, coils and plugs about October time last year.
I have not yet plugged my laptop into the car, so will be the first time doing this. after i give the laptop a going over to make it run a bit quicker old laptop which will be for just the cerbera from now on.
Can someone provide me some screen shots of a good base, what the car should be running that i can check against, or a list of good figures with tolerances. Give me a good base to start with before i need to investigate further or to take it to Austec, which wouldn't be too bad as from the results of the rolling road and the over fueling i think the car would benefit a remap.
Thanks in advance
Peter
Once you get the software connected, from the main screen press the "Page Down" key to scroll through the available pages of information. The second page shows the status of all faults logged, so you can see what fault(s) the ECU has been complaining about.
That should at least tell you what area to be looking in. There is a menu option to clear the fault log which will reset everything so you can see if it comes back when you have fixed whatever is the cause.
That should at least tell you what area to be looking in. There is a menu option to clear the fault log which will reset everything so you can see if it comes back when you have fixed whatever is the cause.
Right after a few try's i was able to connect the laptop to the ECU.
These are the screen dumps.
Clearly shows that the idle is far high, which it has been for a while.
Question 1, what should the idle speed be, and its it adjusted on the throttle linkage itself?
Although, depending on the mood of the car, the idle can be lower, but more of the time its around 1200-1400rpm
This ones shows the adaptive 2, which compared to adaptive 1 is well minus low, what should these look like.
This ones is showing bad AFR on one side, although i took another but never saved it that the other side was the bad side
I had loged faults of throttles 1+2 and which i think was water temp, but can't remember as never done a screen grab of it, but reset these, and will need to go for a drive and see what happens.
Car is smelling of fuel, especailly in the engine bay, but no signs of leaks, and has always had a strong smell.
Any help in interpreting my results would be great.
Peter
These are the screen dumps.
Clearly shows that the idle is far high, which it has been for a while.
Question 1, what should the idle speed be, and its it adjusted on the throttle linkage itself?
Although, depending on the mood of the car, the idle can be lower, but more of the time its around 1200-1400rpm
This ones shows the adaptive 2, which compared to adaptive 1 is well minus low, what should these look like.
This ones is showing bad AFR on one side, although i took another but never saved it that the other side was the bad side
I had loged faults of throttles 1+2 and which i think was water temp, but can't remember as never done a screen grab of it, but reset these, and will need to go for a drive and see what happens.
Car is smelling of fuel, especailly in the engine bay, but no signs of leaks, and has always had a strong smell.
Any help in interpreting my results would be great.
Peter
The manual specifies that the idle should be 900rpm though I think a lot of people run at 1000. The adjustment is on the throttle linkage.
The AFR (air fuel ratio) fault means that you are running too rich for correction on that bank.
Personally before doing anything else I would use the ECU Tools menu to reset the faults, and to reset the adaptive maps (with the engine running) and see what if any faults come back. If there nothing immediately, drive it for a while and see if the MIL light beeps again.
If you haven't balanced airflow between banks and adjusted your throttle pots then that is a good starting point. There are detailed instructions in the workshop manual.
Rich running on one bank implies excess fuel or lack of spark (as does the fuel smell you mention) Culprits could be lambda sensors and their wiring, HT leads, plugs or coils.
The AFR (air fuel ratio) fault means that you are running too rich for correction on that bank.
Personally before doing anything else I would use the ECU Tools menu to reset the faults, and to reset the adaptive maps (with the engine running) and see what if any faults come back. If there nothing immediately, drive it for a while and see if the MIL light beeps again.
If you haven't balanced airflow between banks and adjusted your throttle pots then that is a good starting point. There are detailed instructions in the workshop manual.
Rich running on one bank implies excess fuel or lack of spark (as does the fuel smell you mention) Culprits could be lambda sensors and their wiring, HT leads, plugs or coils.
thank you very much for the information
I will have a go at all of the above. have managed to fine a air flow syncrometer at demontweeks, so can start from the begining and get it set up correctly and work from there. hopefully a nice dry saturday and i'll get on with it.
i have reset the fault log, so need to take it for a drive and see whats happening there. hopefully i can stablise the idle then won't have the fear of pulling away just as its dropping and stalling the car.
i knew owning a tvr was gong to be involved but never thought this involved, but and learning lots all time and hopefully will be able to pass on my knowledge to what i have done in the future.
I will have a go at all of the above. have managed to fine a air flow syncrometer at demontweeks, so can start from the begining and get it set up correctly and work from there. hopefully a nice dry saturday and i'll get on with it.
i have reset the fault log, so need to take it for a drive and see whats happening there. hopefully i can stablise the idle then won't have the fear of pulling away just as its dropping and stalling the car.
i knew owning a tvr was gong to be involved but never thought this involved, but and learning lots all time and hopefully will be able to pass on my knowledge to what i have done in the future.
One thing to check is for play in the ball joints at the ends of the throttle link rod. They are easily obtainable from Ondrives - details in the equivalent parts sticky.
They do tend to wear so I (and others) have replaced them with proper rose joints which has eliminated the free play completely (and hopefully permanently!)
They do tend to wear so I (and others) have replaced them with proper rose joints which has eliminated the free play completely (and hopefully permanently!)
Well was doing well, balanced the pots both to 14.8%, swapped over the ball joints to the rose joints, and got the throttle rod to the correct length between the two banks. did notice that the passenger side bank that the cam cover was stopping the throttle totally closing, so filled some off the spot were it was hitting.
Then the heavens opened up, so thats that for the day. to be continued tomorrow.
Pretty easy setting them up, although the pots are very sensitive and the flat headed screws are as soft as sh*t so might change them out tomorrow and get them more secure.
Peter
Then the heavens opened up, so thats that for the day. to be continued tomorrow.
Pretty easy setting them up, although the pots are very sensitive and the flat headed screws are as soft as sh*t so might change them out tomorrow and get them more secure.
Peter
i've set the throttles to fully closed at the minute, that why i had to remove some material off the cam cover as it was staying slightly open. i then set the throttle pots to 14.8 both sides, and have shortened the throttle rod after putting the rose joints on, as per the manual. so can use my syncrometer to balance the flow to both sides now i assume and readjust the pots to suit?
Gassing Station | Cerbera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff