Discussion
From memory there is a small allen/grub screw type thing that screws onto a spring with a ballbearing at the other end. This ballbearing locates into a recess causing the knob to lock in to place. chances are the BB has got jammed slightly or the BB spring and washer have fallen out.
It's easy to dismantle and put back together again.
It's easy to dismantle and put back together again.
tur8o said:
i havent looked closely but isnt there a roll pin thingy sticking out of either side of the knob that stops it turning too far? also, on a similar topic does anyone have any tips for stopping the the rods etc rattling/vibrating?
adjust the rods a bit to make them move out further, the increased pressure on the rods holds them tight, well it did on mine.The Knob itself is attached with a very small Allen screw for attachment/removal.
Above that, in relative terms to the centre of the Earth, is a Collar which has the 5mm Allen screw in it. It has two indentations which are located by a sprung ball-bearing located in the recess of the housing.
With the collar removed, the shaft will turn freely from one extreme (rods withdrawn and therefore bonnet open), through its middle position (rods fully extended and bonnet locked) to the other extreme (rods withdrawn and bonnet open again).
You have to work out a central postion to lock the collar on the shaft where one of the indentations gives you a locked bonnet(depending on whether you want to turn it anti- OR clockwise to open it). The other position will automatically engage at fully open position.
I now have a headache just trrying explain that so here are a couple of pics to (hopefully) help.
Good Luck !

Sprung Ball bearing in housing

Adjustable collar

Above that, in relative terms to the centre of the Earth, is a Collar which has the 5mm Allen screw in it. It has two indentations which are located by a sprung ball-bearing located in the recess of the housing.
With the collar removed, the shaft will turn freely from one extreme (rods withdrawn and therefore bonnet open), through its middle position (rods fully extended and bonnet locked) to the other extreme (rods withdrawn and bonnet open again).
You have to work out a central postion to lock the collar on the shaft where one of the indentations gives you a locked bonnet(depending on whether you want to turn it anti- OR clockwise to open it). The other position will automatically engage at fully open position.
I now have a headache just trrying explain that so here are a couple of pics to (hopefully) help.
Good Luck !
Sprung Ball bearing in housing

Adjustable collar

Edited by Mr Cerbera on Sunday 4th September 16:21
Mr Cerbera said:
The Knob itself is attached with a very small Allen screw for attachment/removal.
Above that, in relative terms to the centre of the Earth, is a Collar which has the 5mm Allen screw in it. It has two indentations which are located by a sprung ball-bearing located in the recess of the housing.
With the collar removed, the shaft will turn freely from one extreme (rods withdrawn and therefore bonnet open), through its middle position (rods fully extended and bonnet locked) to the other extreme (rods withdrawn and bonnet open again).
You have to work out a central postion to lock the collar on the shaft where one of the indentations gives you a locked bonnet(depending on whether you want to turn it anti- OR clockwise to open it). The other position will automatically engage at fully open position.
I now have a headache just trrying explain that so here are a couple of pics to (hopefully) help.
Good Luck !

Sprung Ball bearing in housing

Adjustable collar

I have been playing with this mechanism on mine after several bonnet popping moments. The pictures were very helpful before disappearing backwards under the steering column. Above that, in relative terms to the centre of the Earth, is a Collar which has the 5mm Allen screw in it. It has two indentations which are located by a sprung ball-bearing located in the recess of the housing.
With the collar removed, the shaft will turn freely from one extreme (rods withdrawn and therefore bonnet open), through its middle position (rods fully extended and bonnet locked) to the other extreme (rods withdrawn and bonnet open again).
You have to work out a central postion to lock the collar on the shaft where one of the indentations gives you a locked bonnet(depending on whether you want to turn it anti- OR clockwise to open it). The other position will automatically engage at fully open position.
I now have a headache just trrying explain that so here are a couple of pics to (hopefully) help.
Good Luck !
Sprung Ball bearing in housing

Adjustable collar

Edited by Mr Cerbera on Sunday 4th September 16:21
But I have a question; the main knob is sprung so you can pull it toward you and it (reluctantly) pulls back against you (there is a small compression spring around the shaft, on the engine side of the bulkhead).
So how is this whole mechanism supposed to work?;
Is the ball bearing supposed to roll around the outside of the collar before dropping into one of the grooves (and you can see the marks where it has done this in your photo).
OR, are you supposed to pull the whole knob toward you, then rotate it and then push it back toward the engine and allow the sprung ball to side UP one of the grooved channels?
Looks like from the thread people think the first option, but having set it up like that I am left wondering why the whole thing was sprung, and I think the second option would be more elegant and less wearing on the collar….but I haven’t tried it yet.
Thoughts?
I wish I'd seen this a couple of weeks ago, that would have saved some of the comedy paintwork coming off on the carpet tape that I used to sure the bonnet in an emergency.
I have since spent several hours upside down with my head in the footwell. I found that the collet grub screw was missing, nothing lined up, the ballbearing spring grub screw was completely obscured by the carpet.
I determined that:
I have since spent several hours upside down with my head in the footwell. I found that the collet grub screw was missing, nothing lined up, the ballbearing spring grub screw was completely obscured by the carpet.
I determined that:
- the pull/push spring is a bit of a red herring
- the collet should be fully inserted but this can't be done without loosening the the ballbearing grub screw
- the groves in the collet are insufficient to locate the mechanism in a locked position
- if you remove the two bolts holding the boss with the sprung ballbearing the boss still won't budge
- if you replace the collet grub screw with a bolt you can make this the back stop providing you locate it in the correct orientation
ukkid35 said:
- if you replace the collet grub screw with a bolt you can make this the back stop providing you locate it in the correct orientation

Can confirm speed test to mildly above the 130 too.
Gassing Station | Cerbera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff


