New master, slave and assembly but no clutch this evening
Discussion
Does anyone know if there is a how-to for bleeding my clutch?
I had the slave, master and clutch assembly replaced last month and this eve when I got in the car to do a TiTT7 reccie I had no clutch
I've spent most of this eve reading threads from this search:
http://www.google.co.uk/#q=cerbera+bleeding+clutch...
There's no fluid under the car.
The driver’s footwell is free of any fluid.
The car has cats fitted.
I haven't been able to check the fluid level as I don't know exactly where to check
I did spend a long time stuck in traffic the last time I drove the car - really hot with fans keeping her at 95 and in uphill, bumper to bumper traffic prior to a lengthy spirited run.
I'm hoping that the bleed nipple on the master cylinder simply wasn't tightened correctly the last time the system was bled and all I have to do is bleed the system and make sure the nipple is properly tightened. Bearing in mind that I should also keep an eye out for residual rubber from knackered seals in the fluid reservoir
I've no idea how to actually do this on a Cerbera and need a how-to if there is one... I'm ok with doing this myself as I have the necessary tools.
I really don't want to miss the 100 or so tivs buzzing the tunnels!!
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Regards
Aide
I had the slave, master and clutch assembly replaced last month and this eve when I got in the car to do a TiTT7 reccie I had no clutch

I've spent most of this eve reading threads from this search:
http://www.google.co.uk/#q=cerbera+bleeding+clutch...
There's no fluid under the car.
The driver’s footwell is free of any fluid.
The car has cats fitted.
I haven't been able to check the fluid level as I don't know exactly where to check
I did spend a long time stuck in traffic the last time I drove the car - really hot with fans keeping her at 95 and in uphill, bumper to bumper traffic prior to a lengthy spirited run.
I'm hoping that the bleed nipple on the master cylinder simply wasn't tightened correctly the last time the system was bled and all I have to do is bleed the system and make sure the nipple is properly tightened. Bearing in mind that I should also keep an eye out for residual rubber from knackered seals in the fluid reservoir
I've no idea how to actually do this on a Cerbera and need a how-to if there is one... I'm ok with doing this myself as I have the necessary tools.
I really don't want to miss the 100 or so tivs buzzing the tunnels!!
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Regards
Aide
ukkid35 said:
Since you paid someone to replace the entire clutch mechanism only 4 weeks ago, I would go back to them and get them to resolve the issue. No point having a dog and barking yourself.
I agree but in sincere fairness to the decent folk at the garage where I bought the car, this work was done under warranty. And even though they do bark, I can't hear them from London and TiTT is tomorrow 

C3BER said:
Take the top cover off, the one that the wash wipe hoses go through. Drivers side near the screen you will see a roundish cover with black rubber masking around it. Take that off and underneath is the res.
Bloody stupid way to get at it and it will need resealing after.
Thanks C3BER, Bloody stupid way to get at it and it will need resealing after.
Before I get access to the reservoir I'm going to need a couple new bits.
-o- brake and clutch fluid
-o- clear hose to go onto the bleed nipple so I can see if there is any air coming out
-o- OR a one man bleeder
-o- a clean, dry catch container to catch the fluid as I bleed
-o- rag's to look after any spillages to save paintwork
-o- something to reseal the res when I'm finished
And then before I start I have to:
-o- open the reservoir and make sure it's full and leave the cap off
-o- put some fluid in the catch container before you start so that air is not sucked back up.
And then to bleed:
-o- open the bleed nipple
-o- pump the clutch once or twice slowly, check the reservoir and top up if necessary
-o- check the clear hose for air bubbles (hopefully there will be)
-o- continue until all the air is out and reuse the caught fluid in the catch container if necessary
-o- tighten the bleed nipple while the hose is still connected
-o- pump the clutch a few times to see if pressure is restored
If this doesn't work I will try a one man bleeder... failing that I will have to be recovered back to the garage..

Can you perhaps suggest what to use to reseal the reservoir? I'll call the garage this morning and ask them what fluid they used.
On the up side, apart from going for drive on such a fine day, I can't think of a better way to spend a few hours sat morning working on my car and hopefully it's just a minor issue

My GF was kind enough to assist when I bled the clutch recently. I definitely recommend an assistant as it only takes three full pumps of the pedal before you need to top up the reservoir or you suck in air.
I also find it works best if you close the bleed nipple while the pedal is being depressed.
I also suggest using a full litre, or at least having a litre available - come to think of it I was refilling a newly rebuilt slave so perhaps a full litre is unnecessary. I just used generic DOT4 costing about a fiver. I wouldn't reuse the fluid, there's really nothing to be gained (and if you've read any of my other posts you'll know I am very cost concious/cheap/mean or whatever).
The reservoir cap seals without anything special, the access cover on mine is covered with black gasket sealant (rather ineffectively).
I also find it works best if you close the bleed nipple while the pedal is being depressed.
I also suggest using a full litre, or at least having a litre available - come to think of it I was refilling a newly rebuilt slave so perhaps a full litre is unnecessary. I just used generic DOT4 costing about a fiver. I wouldn't reuse the fluid, there's really nothing to be gained (and if you've read any of my other posts you'll know I am very cost concious/cheap/mean or whatever).
The reservoir cap seals without anything special, the access cover on mine is covered with black gasket sealant (rather ineffectively).
Edited by ukkid35 on Saturday 1st October 08:54
Just spoke to the garage and they're happy for me to attempt to bleed the clutch myself.
Thanks ukkid35 for your advice, I'll get the necessary bits now and post how I get on.
Just one question before I go - on the master cylinder in the drivers footwell, how do you close the bleed nipple with the pedal down? as it's pretty tight to work in there. can you access the nipple from the engine bay?
Thanks ukkid35 for your advice, I'll get the necessary bits now and post how I get on.
Just one question before I go - on the master cylinder in the drivers footwell, how do you close the bleed nipple with the pedal down? as it's pretty tight to work in there. can you access the nipple from the engine bay?
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