Which Cerbra to maybe purchase??
Discussion
Hi everyone i don't come on the forums often-mostly just the classifieds, but this section i hope is full of the correct advice/guidance!! Hopefully you can assist...
Basically im looking into the idea of getting a Cerb and would like to know which is the best mechanically and least hassle free (if that exists)to look towards. I look in the classifieds on here and there are some real nice ones knocking about (£7-13K), but i must resist the shiny paint (magpie i know) distracting me from the most important bits- out riggers and the engine/gearbox condition!!
Budget would be about £10K, though as with anything if something was in whats considered "mint" condition for it's age there's a small amount of movement. Also depends on what i could possibly get for my current car (1994 R33 GTST skyline, tuned to 420bhp).
MPG isn't an issue as it would be a weekend car and mostly used in spring/summer. Though it would be no garage queen as it may be stored outside and used on dryish winter days. I believe in driving, as nice as they are to look at all cleaned up the sound is where it's at
... As you can see im used to Jap reliability no matter what i throw at it, so dipping my foot in another performance pond i'd like to know what i could be getting myself into!
Also the kind of service/maintenance you guys give them? I've only ever done oil&filter, spark plugs and the biggy cambelt and auxilary belts. Never had to crack the engine open and adjust/fix anything...
I look forward to your advice as i hope this can be a thread i can refer to, or if there are links to other threads they would be much appriciated.
Basically im looking into the idea of getting a Cerb and would like to know which is the best mechanically and least hassle free (if that exists)to look towards. I look in the classifieds on here and there are some real nice ones knocking about (£7-13K), but i must resist the shiny paint (magpie i know) distracting me from the most important bits- out riggers and the engine/gearbox condition!!
Budget would be about £10K, though as with anything if something was in whats considered "mint" condition for it's age there's a small amount of movement. Also depends on what i could possibly get for my current car (1994 R33 GTST skyline, tuned to 420bhp).
MPG isn't an issue as it would be a weekend car and mostly used in spring/summer. Though it would be no garage queen as it may be stored outside and used on dryish winter days. I believe in driving, as nice as they are to look at all cleaned up the sound is where it's at
... As you can see im used to Jap reliability no matter what i throw at it, so dipping my foot in another performance pond i'd like to know what i could be getting myself into! Also the kind of service/maintenance you guys give them? I've only ever done oil&filter, spark plugs and the biggy cambelt and auxilary belts. Never had to crack the engine open and adjust/fix anything...
I look forward to your advice as i hope this can be a thread i can refer to, or if there are links to other threads they would be much appriciated.
Oh my word, where to start... 
As a car, they are bonkers! Mine sets off car alarms as I drive down the road and is the only car I have ever owned where people have even crossed over the road to say how much they love the car... Even while I've been sat in the car, in traffic!!! I have even had a 'boy racer', wind his window down at the traffic lights and instead of trying to race me away, he just sat & listened to the noise.
The forum here is probably one of the best sources of Cerbera information around. Have a flick through the pages, have a bit of a read and that should give you an idea of the highs & lows (and costs) of Cerbera ownership!!
If you have the time and patience, it looks like a lot of the jobs on a Cerb are DIY-able, especially with the help of some of the write-ups on here.
Go into it with your eyes wide open & don't get taken in by the shiny things. Rotten outriggers are common but not the end of the world, just factor in the cost of repair when looking at the purchase price. Service history... If it has been 12k since the last major service, be ready for a big service bill for the valve adjustment. When was the clutch last done, etc...
...and once you get one, don't forget that there are NO driver aids, unlike your current car!!!
M
As a car, they are bonkers! Mine sets off car alarms as I drive down the road and is the only car I have ever owned where people have even crossed over the road to say how much they love the car... Even while I've been sat in the car, in traffic!!! I have even had a 'boy racer', wind his window down at the traffic lights and instead of trying to race me away, he just sat & listened to the noise.
The forum here is probably one of the best sources of Cerbera information around. Have a flick through the pages, have a bit of a read and that should give you an idea of the highs & lows (and costs) of Cerbera ownership!!
If you have the time and patience, it looks like a lot of the jobs on a Cerb are DIY-able, especially with the help of some of the write-ups on here.
Go into it with your eyes wide open & don't get taken in by the shiny things. Rotten outriggers are common but not the end of the world, just factor in the cost of repair when looking at the purchase price. Service history... If it has been 12k since the last major service, be ready for a big service bill for the valve adjustment. When was the clutch last done, etc...
...and once you get one, don't forget that there are NO driver aids, unlike your current car!!!
M
hiya fella
i was in the same boat as you a few months ago and wanted one for same reasons as you basically.
i did little to no research and ended up buying one 4.2ajp for 9k which is in pretty good nick, however the shims needed sorting plus an oil leak on rear g/box oil seal.
im lucky that im a mechanic anyway so no bother with me carrying out any repair which enabled me to knock him down from 10 to 9k for it.
having looked through the immense amounts of money spent on the car i think unless you are minted its one of those type of motors that you cannot afford to pay for work to be done and you need to get stuck in yourself.
ive a lot to learn as ive never touched one of these engines before but im sure theres a lot of guys on this forum that are a wealth of knowledge.
as for the best one to buy.....i just went for what i could afford, didnt want the 6 pot and there seems to be little between the 4.2 and 4.5 other than the price from what i could see.
just buy the best example you can find for your budget would be my only advice.
im sure others will correct me if im wrong!
i was in the same boat as you a few months ago and wanted one for same reasons as you basically.
i did little to no research and ended up buying one 4.2ajp for 9k which is in pretty good nick, however the shims needed sorting plus an oil leak on rear g/box oil seal.
im lucky that im a mechanic anyway so no bother with me carrying out any repair which enabled me to knock him down from 10 to 9k for it.
having looked through the immense amounts of money spent on the car i think unless you are minted its one of those type of motors that you cannot afford to pay for work to be done and you need to get stuck in yourself.
ive a lot to learn as ive never touched one of these engines before but im sure theres a lot of guys on this forum that are a wealth of knowledge.
as for the best one to buy.....i just went for what i could afford, didnt want the 6 pot and there seems to be little between the 4.2 and 4.5 other than the price from what i could see.
just buy the best example you can find for your budget would be my only advice.
im sure others will correct me if im wrong!
There are some good ones out there for your budget, 2 months ago I bought a nice 1998 4.5 with 42k miles with a good solid chassis and no major mechanical problems (just 2 Lambda sensors which cost £210 including fitting) for £10k.
The main thing is to go into it with your eyes open and don't get caught up in the excitment and buy the first car you see. Buy on condition and service history.
I've driven a 4.2 and 4.5 within a few hours of each other and found the 4.5 felt a bit more agricultural and even more of an animal but trust me you wouldn't be dissapointed with either, both are just as much fun. Incidently this is just my opinion of the 2 I drove, maybe someone with more experiance will have a different opinion.
Good luck finding a nice Cerb and I hope it brings you as much joy as mine brings me, it leaves me smiling like a Cheshire cat every time I drive it.
The main thing is to go into it with your eyes open and don't get caught up in the excitment and buy the first car you see. Buy on condition and service history.
I've driven a 4.2 and 4.5 within a few hours of each other and found the 4.5 felt a bit more agricultural and even more of an animal but trust me you wouldn't be dissapointed with either, both are just as much fun. Incidently this is just my opinion of the 2 I drove, maybe someone with more experiance will have a different opinion.
Good luck finding a nice Cerb and I hope it brings you as much joy as mine brings me, it leaves me smiling like a Cheshire cat every time I drive it.
tonywilliams said:
I've driven a 4.2 and 4.5 within a few hours of each other and found the 4.5 felt a bit more agricultural and even more of an animal but trust me you wouldn't be dissapointed with either, both are just as much fun. Incidently this is just my opinion of the 2 I drove, maybe someone with more experiance will have a different opinion.
I'm not very experienced but the 4.2 I drove (96) was harder to drive with a more agressive clutch action. My (00) 4.5 is easier and more torquey so pullaway at slow speed it a bit easier. The 4.5 also seems more refined but it has a standard exhaust.I guess the key message is every car will drive differently so try and drive the car if the seller will let you.
Edited by Rawhide on Monday 7th November 09:46
Morning, thanks guys seems i should take a pro with me or someone who's been under a cerb for afew yrs and knws what there looking for/at. Just breaking out the specs to have a good reading session
!!
To be honest it's the V8's i'd be looking at mostly, sheer sound of them is whats drawing me in. Though a very good speed 6 wouldn't disapoint either. As you say condition and history/previous bills are what need to be addressd. My nightmare situation would be buying what appears to be a decent model for it to then to break and end up with nice bill to get it back on track..
I do have some tools (did coilovers on the nissan) but would leave the engine to the proffesionals so nothings damaged by myself..
Camal_lamey my current car has no driver aids either, it's rwd no traction control or abs
. Only the later spec 2's came with abs and the GTR version with 4wd ability when it gets slippy. It's a weighty car but in current weather conditions and being enthusiastic with the throttle it can give you the old adrenaline kick haha. If boost comes on half way through a corner expect to be using opposite lock to come out of it!!
!!To be honest it's the V8's i'd be looking at mostly, sheer sound of them is whats drawing me in. Though a very good speed 6 wouldn't disapoint either. As you say condition and history/previous bills are what need to be addressd. My nightmare situation would be buying what appears to be a decent model for it to then to break and end up with nice bill to get it back on track..
I do have some tools (did coilovers on the nissan) but would leave the engine to the proffesionals so nothings damaged by myself..
Camal_lamey my current car has no driver aids either, it's rwd no traction control or abs
. Only the later spec 2's came with abs and the GTR version with 4wd ability when it gets slippy. It's a weighty car but in current weather conditions and being enthusiastic with the throttle it can give you the old adrenaline kick haha. If boost comes on half way through a corner expect to be using opposite lock to come out of it!! R33GTST said:
Camal_lamey my current car has no driver aids either, it's rwd no traction control or abs. Only the later spec 2's came with abs and the GTR version with 4wd ability when it gets slippy. It's a weighty car but in current weather conditions and being enthusiastic with the throttle it can give you the old adrenaline kick haha. If boost comes on half way through a corner expect to be using opposite lock to come out of it!!
Ahhh... Every day is a school day hu? . Only the later spec 2's came with abs and the GTR version with 4wd ability when it gets slippy. It's a weighty car but in current weather conditions and being enthusiastic with the throttle it can give you the old adrenaline kick haha. If boost comes on half way through a corner expect to be using opposite lock to come out of it!! At least that's one of the things about the Cerb, in that the power is raw and you don't have a turbo to catch you out!
M
Oh yeah...
If you're serious about a Cerb, you might as well join the TVRCC and get down to your local meet. A meet would potentially give you a chance to look at a number of cars in one place. Then, the owners can show you exactly where those problem areas are and what you're looking for.
Before I bought mine, I popped up to the Chatsworth event. Being able to look over lots of different cars & chat to the owners, was very useful.
M
If you're serious about a Cerb, you might as well join the TVRCC and get down to your local meet. A meet would potentially give you a chance to look at a number of cars in one place. Then, the owners can show you exactly where those problem areas are and what you're looking for.
Before I bought mine, I popped up to the Chatsworth event. Being able to look over lots of different cars & chat to the owners, was very useful.
M
. I'll look into the club meets though they maybe abit scarce on the ground at the minute..R33GTST said:
As you can see im used to Jap reliability no matter what i throw at it...
Also the kind of service/maintenance you guys give them? I've only ever done oil&filter, spark plugs and the biggy cambelt and auxilary belts. Never had to crack the engine open and adjust/fix anything...
If you are expecting Jap reliability then a Cerb may come as a bit of a shock! Realistically, unless you are going to to most or all work on it yourself you should allow a minimum of £3k per year for maintenance/servicing and contingency before the usual running costs. Obviously the desire to add shiny bits and upgrade the car can add to that considerably.Also the kind of service/maintenance you guys give them? I've only ever done oil&filter, spark plugs and the biggy cambelt and auxilary belts. Never had to crack the engine open and adjust/fix anything...
i had the 4.5 which is nuts .. although i understand the 4.2 isnt much less nuts.
you must get the v8 either way i think for the best entry to TVR.
its really easy to drive to be honest as despite the lack of driver aids there is a massive travel on the throttle pedal.. many people have thought them not that quick until they have realised that they were driving on the top half of that travel. use the bottom half with a degree of respect and its a pussycat.
for me the difference between any ajp engine compared to japanese turbos or german 6's is the fact that it really is like a massive bike engine. the response is instant .. not only a lack of turbo lag but a lack of lag full stop. just touch the throttle and bang its probably just a fraction of a second quicker than the drive by wire cars of today but it really does take some getting used too and makes you realise just what is under your foot.
good luck. but if you get good one.. nothing will ever be the same.. it can ruin you finacially, but it can ruin your opinion of any other performance car in the future.
you must get the v8 either way i think for the best entry to TVR.
its really easy to drive to be honest as despite the lack of driver aids there is a massive travel on the throttle pedal.. many people have thought them not that quick until they have realised that they were driving on the top half of that travel. use the bottom half with a degree of respect and its a pussycat.
for me the difference between any ajp engine compared to japanese turbos or german 6's is the fact that it really is like a massive bike engine. the response is instant .. not only a lack of turbo lag but a lack of lag full stop. just touch the throttle and bang its probably just a fraction of a second quicker than the drive by wire cars of today but it really does take some getting used too and makes you realise just what is under your foot.
good luck. but if you get good one.. nothing will ever be the same.. it can ruin you finacially, but it can ruin your opinion of any other performance car in the future.
I went for the speed 6 purely because I found it easier to drive in traffic. I looked at several options over many months and ended up with a very tidy example bought from a very keen TVR enthusiast.
If you decide to go along the 6 route my advice is to look for one that's had an engine rebuild using quality components ( I'm lead to believe TVR fitted foreign parts due to supply and cost issues).
Don't be afraid of any that haven't had chassis rebuilds I found that if they are maintained well they last well. Just make sure they've been treated with waxoyl or similar and check those that have aren't hiding any nastys!
Engines and chassis seem to be the weak areas to pay attention to.
Happy hunting
D
If you decide to go along the 6 route my advice is to look for one that's had an engine rebuild using quality components ( I'm lead to believe TVR fitted foreign parts due to supply and cost issues).
Don't be afraid of any that haven't had chassis rebuilds I found that if they are maintained well they last well. Just make sure they've been treated with waxoyl or similar and check those that have aren't hiding any nastys!
Engines and chassis seem to be the weak areas to pay attention to.
Happy hunting
D
Edited by DJR 7 on Monday 7th November 18:18
Edited by DJR 7 on Monday 7th November 19:34
Rawhide said:
I'm not very experienced but the 4.2 I drove (96) was harder to drive with a more agressive clutch action. My (00) 4.5 is easier and more torquey so pullaway at slow speed it a bit easier. The 4.5 also seems more refined but it has a standard exhaust.
I guess the key message is every car will drive differently so try and drive the car if the seller will let you.
I think you're right, every one does drive differently.I guess the key message is every car will drive differently so try and drive the car if the seller will let you.
Edited by Rawhide on Monday 7th November 09:46
Hi, welcome to the forum.
Firstly, don't be put off by a certain engine. It sounds like you're fairly open minded on that front anyway to be honest, but if anything is crucial with these cars, its that you buy on condition. Not age, not mileage, not your favourite colour combination (unless you're willing to wait months and months), but condition. And certainly don't do what I did and buy the first one you see, as you might not be lucky!
As you know, the chassis are extremely important. Take a screwdriver to the outriggers if the seller allows (the corners of the chassis near the wheels) and make sure its sufficiently strong. Replacement outriggers are around 2k, and that's without doing a body lift. The V8s are reasonably robust units it seems - most of them seem to leak as the cam covers are siliconed in IIRC so they can drip as a result. Nothing to worry about. They run timing chains which are adjusted at the major 12k service. Intervals are 6k.
In all honesty, many of the issues that you'll face will probably be niggly as opposed to major failures, but if you're not handy with the spanners then the bills soon tot up. But then these are 180mph, low volume, handbuilt British sports cars. The performance, the noise and the sense of occasion you get from them is unrivalled for the money, which makes the odd niggle far easier to forgive than with a normal car. Buy one, you won't regret it.
Firstly, don't be put off by a certain engine. It sounds like you're fairly open minded on that front anyway to be honest, but if anything is crucial with these cars, its that you buy on condition. Not age, not mileage, not your favourite colour combination (unless you're willing to wait months and months), but condition. And certainly don't do what I did and buy the first one you see, as you might not be lucky!
As you know, the chassis are extremely important. Take a screwdriver to the outriggers if the seller allows (the corners of the chassis near the wheels) and make sure its sufficiently strong. Replacement outriggers are around 2k, and that's without doing a body lift. The V8s are reasonably robust units it seems - most of them seem to leak as the cam covers are siliconed in IIRC so they can drip as a result. Nothing to worry about. They run timing chains which are adjusted at the major 12k service. Intervals are 6k.
In all honesty, many of the issues that you'll face will probably be niggly as opposed to major failures, but if you're not handy with the spanners then the bills soon tot up. But then these are 180mph, low volume, handbuilt British sports cars. The performance, the noise and the sense of occasion you get from them is unrivalled for the money, which makes the odd niggle far easier to forgive than with a normal car. Buy one, you won't regret it.
R33GTST said:
Hi everyone i don't come on the forums often-mostly just the classifieds, but this section i hope is full of the correct advice/guidance!! Hopefully you can assist...
Basically im looking into the idea of getting a Cerb and would like to know which is the best mechanically and least hassle free THIS IS A CONTRADICTION (if that exists)to look towards. I look in the classifieds on here and there are some real nice ones knocking about (£7-13K), but i must resist the shiny paint (magpie i know) distracting me from the most important bits- out riggers and the engine/gearbox condition!!LOOKS LIKE YOU'RE FAIRLY KNOWLEDGEABLE ALREADY
Budget would be about £10K, though as with anything if something was in whats considered "mint" condition for it's age there's a small amount of movement. WOULD BE VERY SURPRISED IF YOU FOUND A "MINTER" IN THIS PRICE RANGE Also depends on what i could possibly get for my current car (1994 R33 GTST skyline, tuned to 420bhp).
MPG isn't an issue as it would be a weekend car and mostly used in spring/summer. Though it would be no garage queen as it may be stored outside and used on dryish winter days.THIS WILL BE YOUR MAIN PROBLEM I believe in driving EXCEPT IN WINTER ?, as nice as they are to look at all cleaned up the sound is where it's at... As you can see im used to Jap reliability no matter what i throw at it, so dipping my foot in another performance pond i'd like to know what i could be getting myself into!
Also the kind of service/maintenance you guys give them? I've only ever done oil&filter, spark plugs and the biggy cambelt and auxilary belts. Never had to crack the engine open and adjust/fix anything...BUDGET ON £3000 p.a.AT A DEALER'S
I look forward to your advice as i hope this can be a thread i can refer to, or if there are links to other threads they would be much appriciated.
This Group has saved my life (and wallet). There are brilliant, informative and funny Peeps here but, honestly, I would stay with something Japanese if I were you.Basically im looking into the idea of getting a Cerb and would like to know which is the best mechanically and least hassle free THIS IS A CONTRADICTION (if that exists)to look towards. I look in the classifieds on here and there are some real nice ones knocking about (£7-13K), but i must resist the shiny paint (magpie i know) distracting me from the most important bits- out riggers and the engine/gearbox condition!!LOOKS LIKE YOU'RE FAIRLY KNOWLEDGEABLE ALREADY
Budget would be about £10K, though as with anything if something was in whats considered "mint" condition for it's age there's a small amount of movement. WOULD BE VERY SURPRISED IF YOU FOUND A "MINTER" IN THIS PRICE RANGE Also depends on what i could possibly get for my current car (1994 R33 GTST skyline, tuned to 420bhp).
MPG isn't an issue as it would be a weekend car and mostly used in spring/summer. Though it would be no garage queen as it may be stored outside and used on dryish winter days.THIS WILL BE YOUR MAIN PROBLEM I believe in driving EXCEPT IN WINTER ?, as nice as they are to look at all cleaned up the sound is where it's at
... As you can see im used to Jap reliability no matter what i throw at it, so dipping my foot in another performance pond i'd like to know what i could be getting myself into! Also the kind of service/maintenance you guys give them? I've only ever done oil&filter, spark plugs and the biggy cambelt and auxilary belts. Never had to crack the engine open and adjust/fix anything...BUDGET ON £3000 p.a.AT A DEALER'S
I look forward to your advice as i hope this can be a thread i can refer to, or if there are links to other threads they would be much appriciated.
Best of Luck
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