AaaggHhh inlet manifold removal
AaaggHhh inlet manifold removal
Author
Discussion

mattrosersv

Original Poster:

579 posts

259 months

Tuesday 13th December 2011
quotequote all
Stuck Christmas shopping while I would rather be working on Cerb.

Before I got dragged away I was stuck at getting inlet manifold off. It is stuck on and won't budge despite being levering and beating with wood.

I am concerned I might bend it given the amount of effort I have tried. Anyone got any tips?

scotty_d

6,795 posts

223 months

Tuesday 13th December 2011
quotequote all
what engine? My 4.2 inlets where tight i just tapped at them with wood and a hammer carefully until they moved.

Tanguero

4,535 posts

230 months

Tuesday 13th December 2011
quotequote all
At the risk of sounding facetious, are you absolutely sure you have got all the bolts out? They really shouldn't be tight at all, there are only 'O' rings and a heat barrier between the head and the throttle body. If its that stuck, there's a bolt somewhere that needs undoing.

pmessling

2,318 posts

232 months

Tuesday 13th December 2011
quotequote all
on the 4.5 6 bolts either side, and i had to move the ac compressor out the way to get to the front passenger sides. other wise should come off very very easy

mattrosersv

Original Poster:

579 posts

259 months

Tuesday 13th December 2011
quotequote all
Sorry, yes, 4.2. 12 bolts removed all were easy access but were bloody tight!

Trumpets appear to be stuck down with silicon..

Makes me wonder if the well respected indy that did my last 12,000 service actually checked gaps..

scotty_d

6,795 posts

223 months

Tuesday 13th December 2011
quotequote all
mattrosersv said:
Sorry, yes, 4.2. 12 bolts removed all were easy access but were bloody tight!

Trumpets appear to be stuck down with silicon..

Makes me wonder if the well respected indy that did my last 12,000 service actually checked gaps..
Yes sound like mine as mine were last adjusted in 2006!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
From a ex TVR indy and this was his own car as well shocking any way.

Have you removed the fuel rail? I took mine out with all the injectors and removes them as 2 throttle bodys just a length of wood and give them a chap till the start to move

Tanguero

4,535 posts

230 months

Tuesday 13th December 2011
quotequote all
mattrosersv said:
Sorry, yes, 4.2. 12 bolts removed all were easy access but were bloody tight!

Trumpets appear to be stuck down with silicon..

Makes me wonder if the well respected indy that did my last 12,000 service actually checked gaps..
They really shouldn't be stuck down at all. The whole fuel rail, throttle body assembly should lift off easily, with the heat barriers cable tied to the bottom of the throttle bodies. Try prising it up, under the edge of the heat barrier between throttle trumpets. The heat barrier is a continuous strip so there should be room to get a lever under it there.

If you have left the fuel rail in situ, there are also bolts on each side down into the cam covers. Be careful when you take those out as there is a spacer underneath which you do not want dropping into an open cylinder.

mattrosersv

Original Poster:

579 posts

259 months

Tuesday 13th December 2011
quotequote all
Hi ScottyD,

Thanks. Yup that is my new plan. I have just been hanging off a bit of 4x2 levered over the battery and nothing moves except the engine on its mounts.

In frustration I was toying with attaching them to the rafters of my garage and lowering the car lift, however, I reckon it would rip my roof down.

Will post with how I get on....

mikesr

672 posts

260 months

Tuesday 13th December 2011
quotequote all
mattrosersv said:
Sorry, yes, 4.2. 12 bolts removed all were easy access but were bloody tight!
There are 16 bolts holding the 4.2 inlet manifolds.

Have you left 2 on each side? They bolt vertically into the top of the cam covers 1 each side of the two centre trumpets.

mattrosersv

Original Poster:

579 posts

259 months

Tuesday 13th December 2011
quotequote all
Well I feel like a right tool now.

Mike SR, bang on the money! Credit also due to Tanguero

Still got a bit of silicon clean up to do, but at least it is off now!

scotty_d

6,795 posts

223 months

Tuesday 13th December 2011
quotequote all
mattrosersv said:
Well I feel like a right tool now.

Mike SR, bang on the money! Credit also due to Tanguero

Still got a bit of silicon clean up to do, but at least it is off now!
Nice one smile

mikesr

672 posts

260 months

Tuesday 13th December 2011
quotequote all
mattrosersv said:
Well I feel like a right tool now.

Mike SR, bang on the money! Credit also due to Tanguero

Still got a bit of silicon clean up to do, but at least it is off now!
Nice one.

And most people have a tool moment or two. My recent one was using an O ring that was 0.5mm too thick when refitting the pumps during the engine rebuild. That required engine back out and sump off to put the correct size O ring in.

In my defence the other three are 3mm thick. There's just this one that is 2.5mm rage




mattrosersv

Original Poster:

579 posts

259 months

Tuesday 13th December 2011
quotequote all
All in bits ready for a bit of measuring tomorrow. From a quick look at the offside bank it appears that they are all running at .008 on exhaust so a bit more work for me yet.

It also occurred to me this eve that the manifold did come off back in the summer. I got the car recovered to a non-TVR place when the alternator failed. They would be the guys responsible for the silicon abortion. You live and learn I suppose.

Anyway thanks for everyone that assisted me in my day of stupidity!

Matt

Tanguero

4,535 posts

230 months

Tuesday 13th December 2011
quotequote all
Glad you got it sorted in the end. smile

Was the silicone in addition to the heat shield 'O' rings or instead of? You will want to replace the rings if they were missing as its critical to get a good air seal. There are details of an alternative supplier in the Equivalent Parts sticky thread if you need them.