Another diff out, Well hopefully!
Discussion
Started to take the diff out of my 4.2 today, it has been leaking oil quite a bit and after reading few posts on here I thigh how hard can it be? 
Unlike Spongy and Scotty_d I have the luxury of a borrowed four post lift, so though it would be a little easier. Have spent most of the afternoon on the job I am full of admiration for the afore mentioned who managed this job whilst lying under the car rather than standing. I say this as so far I am finding this a pig of a job.
I managed to get the exhaust removed no bother, but then onto drive shafts and prop. Drives shaft bolts were quite a tug, but after a little added leverage (extra long spanner on the allen key) I managed to get all ten off in about 1.5 hours.
Then onto the prop shaft; only four bolts here I thought, but no, who put that chassis cross member right where I need my spanner, oh well lets try a offset ring spanner, on no theres not enough room for that between the diff and the end of the bolt, lets try a semi open ring, no that won't fit either. I gave up in the end and moved onto the bolts on the support plates. The bottom ones were again very stiff but the leverage trick worked a treat. The top ones, well how the hell to do get a spanner on the nut side let alone the bolt side, oh you remove the prop first!
So the onto bush bolts. These, thank God where not very tight and I managed to loosen the nuts very easily on the two front mounts, but the rear top mount up inside the chassis leaves so little room to swing a spanner you can't get any movement on the nut. I must be using the wrong tools.
Anyway that was enough for one day.
Any hits or tip are most appreciated .
More anon
Trev.
Unlike Spongy and Scotty_d I have the luxury of a borrowed four post lift, so though it would be a little easier. Have spent most of the afternoon on the job I am full of admiration for the afore mentioned who managed this job whilst lying under the car rather than standing. I say this as so far I am finding this a pig of a job.
I managed to get the exhaust removed no bother, but then onto drive shafts and prop. Drives shaft bolts were quite a tug, but after a little added leverage (extra long spanner on the allen key) I managed to get all ten off in about 1.5 hours.
Then onto the prop shaft; only four bolts here I thought, but no, who put that chassis cross member right where I need my spanner, oh well lets try a offset ring spanner, on no theres not enough room for that between the diff and the end of the bolt, lets try a semi open ring, no that won't fit either. I gave up in the end and moved onto the bolts on the support plates. The bottom ones were again very stiff but the leverage trick worked a treat. The top ones, well how the hell to do get a spanner on the nut side let alone the bolt side, oh you remove the prop first!
So the onto bush bolts. These, thank God where not very tight and I managed to loosen the nuts very easily on the two front mounts, but the rear top mount up inside the chassis leaves so little room to swing a spanner you can't get any movement on the nut. I must be using the wrong tools.
Anyway that was enough for one day.
Any hits or tip are most appreciated .
More anon
Trev.
Prop shaft bolts can just be done with a stubby open spanner - at least on mine they can - but it is very fiddly. A lot of the trick is getting the prop shaft turned into just the right position.
Drive shaft bolts are easiest with a ball ended Allen socket and a sodoff big breaker bar!
Try a really long extension bar for the top diff mount bolt, long enough to come out through the wheel arch. Failing that unbolt the bracket from the diff. Its a lot easier with the body off...
Drive shaft bolts are easiest with a ball ended Allen socket and a sodoff big breaker bar!
Try a really long extension bar for the top diff mount bolt, long enough to come out through the wheel arch. Failing that unbolt the bracket from the diff. Its a lot easier with the body off...
Cheers it is a hard job but worth it, going back in is the real tricky part but can be done on your own using mainly swearing at it 
Ok Prop shaft bolts I went to halfords and bought
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/...
and with the use of my massive breaker bar it is good for breaking out and then nipping back up.
I have various spanners and cut down ones as well not sure what i used. i have allen keys with the ball ends as well great for a little angle like these.
doh did not read the post above he covered it all really lol.
Ok Prop shaft bolts I went to halfords and bought
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/...
and with the use of my massive breaker bar it is good for breaking out and then nipping back up.
I have various spanners and cut down ones as well not sure what i used. i have allen keys with the ball ends as well great for a little angle like these.
doh did not read the post above he covered it all really lol.
lol yep its a pig of a job.....wait till you try and get diff out.if you can get a helper i would imagine this would be alot easier than doing it on your own.I could just about hold the diff with one hand ......but i say just,its not so much its weight its the fact you have to turn it to allow the diff to pass chassis......thats the hard bit on your own,with fresh white paint all over the place,and as above there was a few fecks flying around my garage the day mine went back in.Good luck sir
Thanks, one and all its good to know that it isn't an impossible task, although it did seem that way at one point.
I will try the long extension through the wheel arch, thats sounds a treat.
The bit I am really struggling with is this.
As you can see I have already started to round off the nuts. I just can't get a spanner in and located square to the nut.
The nut and bolt set are 9/16 rather than metric. Can they be replaced with metric equivalents?
I will give it another go this afternoon, but for now back to work.
its good to know that it isn't an impossible task, although it did seem that way at one point.I will try the long extension through the wheel arch, thats sounds a treat.
The bit I am really struggling with is this.
As you can see I have already started to round off the nuts. I just can't get a spanner in and located square to the nut.
The nut and bolt set are 9/16 rather than metric. Can they be replaced with metric equivalents?
I will give it another go this afternoon, but for now back to work.
It looks to me like the bolts have been put in from the wrong side. The bolt head on mine is on the diff side of the flange which I think makes a tiny bit more space to get an open spanner on.
Not sure what to suggest apart from possibly a crow-foot on a ratchet. I don't know that you would have space to get a die grinder in or a nut splitter to hack them off. Possibly a drill into the head from the propshaft side?. If you need a set of (the correct 9/16 UNF) replacement bolts drop me a PM I bought 2 boxes by mistake and will happily stick a set in an envelope to you.
Not sure what to suggest apart from possibly a crow-foot on a ratchet. I don't know that you would have space to get a die grinder in or a nut splitter to hack them off. Possibly a drill into the head from the propshaft side?. If you need a set of (the correct 9/16 UNF) replacement bolts drop me a PM I bought 2 boxes by mistake and will happily stick a set in an envelope to you.
Edited by Tanguero on Wednesday 22 February 13:26
Success!! it was just a case of getting the spanner into a horizontal position and pressing up against the bush bracket. I could then get enough purchase with the socket on the bolt side.
Thanks very much everyone all with the suggestions, its great to know that there are people out there with the know how, without have to go to garage and get it fixed. There's no fun in that.
Here's some photos of the hole left behind and the diff.
Looks like a standard LSD to me?
I was thinking of sending it off to the boys at Gripper, to get either new plates or one of their custom ramped models fitted, anybody had any experience with a Gripper diff?
Then it will need painting along with the rear of the chassis.
Tanguero, I will PM you about those bolts, thanks.
it was just a case of getting the spanner into a horizontal position and pressing up against the bush bracket. I could then get enough purchase with the socket on the bolt side.Thanks very much everyone all with the suggestions, its great to know that there are people out there with the know how, without have to go to garage and get it fixed. There's no fun in that.
Here's some photos of the hole left behind and the diff.
Looks like a standard LSD to me?
I was thinking of sending it off to the boys at Gripper, to get either new plates or one of their custom ramped models fitted, anybody had any experience with a Gripper diff?
Then it will need painting along with the rear of the chassis.
Tanguero, I will PM you about those bolts, thanks.
I've just got 2 bolts left to do on mine, pop the LH flange and remove the rear mount.
My upper front wing mount bolts are f'ing tight and I have no idea how to get them off.
I thread locked the nuts on the back due to the things working loose all the time but I'm beginning to regret that now!
My upper front wing mount bolts are f'ing tight and I have no idea how to get them off.
I thread locked the nuts on the back due to the things working loose all the time but I'm beginning to regret that now!
TVTrev said:
I noticed from looking at both Spongy's project and Scotty-d's that the back cover of the diffs are different. Spongy's has BTR Automotive on the casing where as Scotty-d has a serial number like mine.
Do you guys know the difference and if mine is a standard or a Hydratrak?
I don't believe that the casing its self gives you a clue as to the type of diff. Both casing styles were used for both sets of internals. Some hydratrack diffs have a tag under one of the casing bolts that says so, but other than that as far as I know its a case of opening it up to look inside to be sure.Do you guys know the difference and if mine is a standard or a Hydratrak?
Your internals look the same as mine. Here is a link to the thread i posted last month.
Clicky http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Clicky http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Well after several weeks, a head gasket job on my son's Classic Mini, and too much work, I finally managed to clean up the diff and paint it up in black POR15 and the the cover in silver.
I also cleaned up the chassis where you can't reach when the diff is back in and then lined it with cardboard ready for the re-install.
I decided to replace the input shaft oil seal just in case before I put it back in the car. Taking off the input sift makes it much easier to get back.
I bolted it all up place and then I noticed that the input shaft was rather loose, arrg...:bang head:
It moves both in and out and left to right, in fact feels like there is no bearing at all let alone a worn one.
Before I send it off to be repaired
, is this indeed a shot bearing or has anybody experienced this as quite normal?
I also cleaned up the chassis where you can't reach when the diff is back in and then lined it with cardboard ready for the re-install.
I decided to replace the input shaft oil seal just in case before I put it back in the car. Taking off the input sift makes it much easier to get back.
I bolted it all up place and then I noticed that the input shaft was rather loose, arrg...:bang head:
It moves both in and out and left to right, in fact feels like there is no bearing at all let alone a worn one.
Before I send it off to be repaired
, is this indeed a shot bearing or has anybody experienced this as quite normal?You have tightened the Input flange back up to the same position it was when you removed it?]
Also, for future ref it is much easier to remove all parts from the diff including the 2 output shafts before you drop it or raise it back in. Slots straight between the rails then. Output shafts just pop out as they are on a spring clip like most driveshafts.
Also, for future ref it is much easier to remove all parts from the diff including the 2 output shafts before you drop it or raise it back in. Slots straight between the rails then. Output shafts just pop out as they are on a spring clip like most driveshafts.
Do you mean these clips to remove the output shafts Ridds?
It looks like the hold some sort of large nut in place to me. I took them off when I removed the back cover, but the drive shaft flanges didn't come off. The seem to hold a large nut in place which looks like it need a special tool to undo or am I missing something?
Trev.
It looks like the hold some sort of large nut in place to me. I took them off when I removed the back cover, but the drive shaft flanges didn't come off. The seem to hold a large nut in place which looks like it need a special tool to undo or am I missing something?
Trev.
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