Diagnosis please?
Discussion
No intention of fixing this myself, RG will have that pleasure but would be interested for any views on what's going on.
First off, the car (a speed 6) has always run hot, fans kicking in at an indicated 100 or so if in traffic,running at about 80 deg when moving.
Lst night I wa sin slow traffic for about 45 mins altogether. the temp went up to an indicated 110, dropping to 100 on the fans,before rising again etc. I wasn't too concerned given previous experience until I saw some whisps of steam emanating from the bonnet. Nothing major, but definitely there. I got the heater going and the temp steadied to 105, then I hit some clearer road and the temp dropped back to 90.I got home without further incident. So this morning I decided to investigate further and got the car ticking over on the drive, having first checked and topped up the coolant level to the seam on the header tank as instructed in the handbook. All was well for some time, the temp eventually rose to 110, fans kicked in, no sign of steam, got the air con running as an extra test, all was well. So I switched off and went inside for five minutes, intending to take her out for a short spin as you do. When I went back outside there was a pool of water under the car and steam billowing all over the place. I opened the bonnet and could see the steam was rising from somewhere under the airbox, water was dripping from the back of the engine somewhere. The temp gauge was reading 110 and it became evident that water was pissing - under pressure - from somewhere. So I'm thinking a hose has ruptured but once the pressure had dissipated the leak stopped completely. I took the header tank cap off and the level had obviously dropped a fair bit but water was still visible.
The water on the floor turns out to be lightly oily (anti-freeze?) Everything else running sweetly as can be.
Any ideas wise people?
First off, the car (a speed 6) has always run hot, fans kicking in at an indicated 100 or so if in traffic,running at about 80 deg when moving.
Lst night I wa sin slow traffic for about 45 mins altogether. the temp went up to an indicated 110, dropping to 100 on the fans,before rising again etc. I wasn't too concerned given previous experience until I saw some whisps of steam emanating from the bonnet. Nothing major, but definitely there. I got the heater going and the temp steadied to 105, then I hit some clearer road and the temp dropped back to 90.I got home without further incident. So this morning I decided to investigate further and got the car ticking over on the drive, having first checked and topped up the coolant level to the seam on the header tank as instructed in the handbook. All was well for some time, the temp eventually rose to 110, fans kicked in, no sign of steam, got the air con running as an extra test, all was well. So I switched off and went inside for five minutes, intending to take her out for a short spin as you do. When I went back outside there was a pool of water under the car and steam billowing all over the place. I opened the bonnet and could see the steam was rising from somewhere under the airbox, water was dripping from the back of the engine somewhere. The temp gauge was reading 110 and it became evident that water was pissing - under pressure - from somewhere. So I'm thinking a hose has ruptured but once the pressure had dissipated the leak stopped completely. I took the header tank cap off and the level had obviously dropped a fair bit but water was still visible.
The water on the floor turns out to be lightly oily (anti-freeze?) Everything else running sweetly as can be.
Any ideas wise people?
Cerbs and water can be fickle but once sorted you wonder what all the fuss was all about.
First thing that blasted seal is not always the right hight for your water level. Often it's lower and if near the seal will kick it out via the expansion bottle.
I had a rusty jubilee clip that snapped dropping the water onto the floor so you could have a weak clip or hole spraying hot water.
The temp issue could be a faulty sensor which is something I would change without even thinking about it.
Took me a year to sort out my water problems and in the end I became an expert in cerb plumbing
For the record my problem was a faulty sensor replaced by a faulty sensor that read correct on the laptop.
First thing that blasted seal is not always the right hight for your water level. Often it's lower and if near the seal will kick it out via the expansion bottle.
I had a rusty jubilee clip that snapped dropping the water onto the floor so you could have a weak clip or hole spraying hot water.
The temp issue could be a faulty sensor which is something I would change without even thinking about it.
Took me a year to sort out my water problems and in the end I became an expert in cerb plumbing
For the record my problem was a faulty sensor replaced by a faulty sensor that read correct on the laptop.
C3BER said:
Cerbs and water can be fickle but once sorted you wonder what all the fuss was all about.
First thing that blasted seal is not always the right hight for your water level. Often it's lower and if near the seal will kick it out via the expansion bottle.
I had a rusty jubilee clip that snapped dropping the water onto the floor so you could have a weak clip or hole spraying hot water.
The temp issue could be a faulty sensor which is something I would change without even thinking about it.
Took me a year to sort out my water problems and in the end I became an expert in cerb plumbing
For the record my problem was a faulty sensor replaced by a faulty sensor that read correct on the laptop.
As an expert then ...... First thing that blasted seal is not always the right hight for your water level. Often it's lower and if near the seal will kick it out via the expansion bottle.
I had a rusty jubilee clip that snapped dropping the water onto the floor so you could have a weak clip or hole spraying hot water.
The temp issue could be a faulty sensor which is something I would change without even thinking about it.
Took me a year to sort out my water problems and in the end I became an expert in cerb plumbing
For the record my problem was a faulty sensor replaced by a faulty sensor that read correct on the laptop.
what would you put as the correct level as I have had similar problems and topped mine up to seem line and ended up with steam coming from pressure lid. Is this an example of to much higher coolant level ? I'm replacing all pipes and sensor over the next week in a hope of having mine sorted ready for summer
Hope u get sorted Andy. Keep us informed of solution please
Thanks for responses so far. A weak jubilee or seal sounds likely as the water leak has stopped altogether now. Probably wishful thinking that it is summat simple. I don't have time to investigate myself so it will have to go to RG for them to have a look. I'm about 2 miles from them - reckon it will be safe to drive it over?
Water level can be amazingly low or on the seal. It realy is a black art sometimes getting it bob on. I went through everything you can think of sorting mine until it was finally pin pointed.
As for two miles......... Make my day punk. If a clip goes then you've lost your water but if it's only a dribble then no issue to cover two miles. Take your lucky rabbits foot.
As for two miles......... Make my day punk. If a clip goes then you've lost your water but if it's only a dribble then no issue to cover two miles. Take your lucky rabbits foot.
I had a similar problem in that water kept disappearing slowly and the engine would eventually boil if you weren't carefull to top it up. I couldn't find a leak anywhere but when I pulled the engine out for a chassis refurb I found that one of the joints on the water rail to block was leaking enough to lose water but not enough to see water leaking - I'm not sure if a speed six has a similar arrangement?
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